• Please be aware that we have recently gotten a wave of users that, when researched, are found to be from Nigeria. They are trying to sell products and asking to be paid through Zelle or Venmo leaving users with no recourse if they don't ship the product. If you suspect this activity please contact admin and we will research their information to verify their location.

ArboristSite.com Sponsors
Peak Industries


Tell me about Axes....

CTYank

CTYank

Peripatetic Sawyer
Joined
Aug 26, 2010
Messages
3,377
Location
SW CT
I don't need any more saws - heck, I don't need all of the ones I have now - but there is one more I want to get. A 5020 is it: I want to see how much I can get out of a ported 5020.
If you've never run a PP5020, you're in for a pleasant surprise. For such a cheapie, they really rip, bone stock. I've got about 3 yrs on mine now, so it's broken in. :D It had no problem with the OEM bar fully engaged in blowdown hickory. Of course, the chain was sharp; that OEM "Vanguard" chain spit serious chips. The strato-scavenging doesn't hurt, for fuel endurance & local air quality.

A 16" bar works very nicely with it, better suited to confined areas, like a hardwood top that you're limbing. Second b&c simpler to pack into the woods than a second saw.

Bud I volunteer with tried it (he still has his Stihl 250- avail. cheap) and got his own as soon as he had the $. Still loves it, and the 455r I sold him. What I'm saying is that you might even be happy running it as you brung it. Except for the pleasure of tweaking it.

Ill be watching & listening to how it works out for you.:popcorn:
 

svk

A little bit of everything
Joined
Oct 19, 2009
Messages
24,011
Location
MN
If you've never run a PP5020, you're in for a pleasant surprise. For such a cheapie, they really rip, bone stock. I've got about 3 yrs on mine now, so it's broken in. :D It had no problem with the OEM bar fully engaged in blowdown hickory. Of course, the chain was sharp; that OEM "Vanguard" chain spit serious chips. The strato-scavenging doesn't hurt, for fuel endurance & local air quality.

A 16" bar works very nicely with it, better suited to confined areas, like a hardwood top that you're limbing. Second b&c simpler to pack into the woods than a second saw.

Bud I volunteer with tried it (he still has his Stihl 250- avail. cheap) and got his own as soon as he had the $. Still loves it, and the 455r I sold him. What I'm saying is that you might even be happy running it as you brung it. Except for the pleasure of tweaking it.

Ill be watching & listening to how it works out for you.:popcorn:
I remember this saw being over it's head in 18" sugar maple and needing to get rescued by an old junker Husky. And the chain was definitely sharp as you spent half the morning sharpening it....

I was "strongly encouraged" to try this saw and to me it felt like a somewhat heavy, modestly powered 50 CC saw.

Do you get kickbacks from Poulan and Council Tools? From what I can see they are average performing tools yet you carry on like they are the silver bullets of the arborist world.
 
turnkey4099

turnkey4099

Tree Freak
Joined
Feb 27, 2002
Messages
18,054
Location
se washington
8 pounder huh. I'll see if Council Tool has one vice the 6 pounder. I've been thinking about the optimum splitting height. This will vary from person to person though. Figured there's probably a general guideline of how high the round should sit. Maybe knee high or below.
I like mine sitting about waist high at the top = results in the ax/maul being level when it strikes. My splitting blocks are cut to get that result from the average length of the stuff I'm splitting.

Harry K
 
turnkey4099

turnkey4099

Tree Freak
Joined
Feb 27, 2002
Messages
18,054
Location
se washington
Umm, that's one bad dude. He's wearing new age Jesus sandals to split rounds!!

His aim kinda sucks too. Unless he meant to strike it in 20 different places.
Very good lesson on how not to split wood. Gotta admire his 'jumping', gauranteed to hit the same spot every time!!! Even his wedge technique sucks. Best placement of the wedge is somewhat away from the center of the round not out on the edge.

Harry K
 
  • Like
Reactions: svk
Ambull01

Ambull01

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Oct 30, 2014
Messages
2,260
Location
Eastern shore, MD
I like mine sitting about waist high at the top = results in the ax/maul being level when it strikes. My splitting blocks are cut to get that result from the average length of the stuff I'm splitting.

Harry K
I'll try that. Waist high seems a bit high to me though, unless you have one of those short legs long torso body type. I have some sweetgum rounds that I can cut into different sized splitting blocks.

Very good lesson on how not to split wood. Gotta admire his 'jumping', gauranteed to hit the same spot every time!!! Even his wedge technique sucks. Best placement of the wedge is somewhat away from the center of the round not out on the edge.

Harry K
lol. It looks kind of cool but I'm definitely not trying that technique. Probably miss the round and end up hitting my foot/shin.
Yeah I learned the whole wedge on the edge thing by trial and error. Usually just busts through the outer part of the round which forces me to hammer it out. In the center never really worked either in the bigger stuff, tended to get swallowed up and had to take a maul to the round to free it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: svk
BeatCJ

BeatCJ

flat out lazy
Joined
Nov 4, 2014
Messages
551
Age
58
Location
SW Washington State
Yeah I learned the whole wedge on the edge thing by trial and error. Usually just busts through the outer part of the round which forces me to hammer it out. In the center never really worked either in the bigger stuff, tended to get swallowed up and had to take a maul to the round to free it.
I try to never use a wedge unless I have a second available, too. Like Harry K says, somewhere between the center and the edge. I try to place the first one somewhere around halfway between the edge and the heart, leaves room to start a second. If I get them BOTH stuck, then I beat the opposite side to death with my maul, sometimes work the outside edge next to the wedge. In my wood, that has never failed to split a round for me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: svk
zogger

zogger

Tree Freak
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
16,456
Location
North Georgia
I try to never use a wedge unless I have a second available, too. Like Harry K says, somewhere between the center and the edge. I try to place the first one somewhere around halfway between the edge and the heart, leaves room to start a second. If I get them BOTH stuck, then I beat the opposite side to death with my maul, sometimes work the outside edge next to the wedge. In my wood, that has never failed to split a round for me.
You need two, and/or an additional maul, etc because the dang wedge companies will not ship a big wedge! I want one longer than 16 inches so I can smack that dude ALL the way through the round, and I want it wide and thick. Even up to like a 20 lb wedge.

If I have to break out the hammer and wedge, I want it to work, because I am staring at something nasty.

Lack of real big wedges makes me noodle a lot more, I know full well the limitations of these normal size wedges they sell at the various hardware/farm stores. I very rarely wedge anymore precisely from getting multiples stuck.
 
  • Like
Reactions: svk
woodchuck357

woodchuck357

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Nov 12, 2012
Messages
1,262
Location
arkansas
You need two, and/or an additional maul, etc because the dang wedge companies will not ship a big wedge! I want one longer than 16 inches so I can smack that dude ALL the way through the round, and I want it wide and thick. Even up to like a 20 lb wedge.

If I have to break out the hammer and wedge, I want it to work, because I am staring at something nasty.

Lack of real big wedges makes me noodle a lot more, I know full well the limitations of these normal size wedges they sell at the various hardware/farm stores. I very rarely wedge anymore precisely from getting multiples stuck.
Gluts, large wooden wedges normally cut from dead limbs. One diagonal cut makes two.
 
handsplit!

handsplit!

Handsplit!
Joined
Jul 19, 2015
Messages
76
Location
northern indiana
I have over thirty axes. All old vintage ones that ring like a bell if tapped on. I've used almost all the patterns on single bits and double bits. I bought the dvd above on axes . I have lined them up and split green oak. In my opinion the best splitting axe is a 3.5lb Kelly jersey pattern axe. It will run thru the wood. I have big 5lb jersey patterns too and they don't do as good as the 3.5lb ones? I guess I can't swing them as fast. The jersey pattern seems to be a lot better pattern than any other axe in my opinion. On the old axes you can honestly put a shaving sharp edge with a file.:)
I have over thirty axes. All old vintage ones that ring like a bell if tapped on. I've used almost all the patterns on single bits and double bits. I bought the dvd above on axes . I have lined them up and split green oak. In my opinion the best splitting axe is a 3.5lb Kelly jersey pattern axe. It will run thru the wood. I have big 5lb jersey patterns too and they don't do as good as the 3.5lb ones? I guess I can't swing them as fast. The jersey pattern seems to be a lot better pattern than any other axe in my opinion. On the old axes you can honestly put a shaving sharp edge with a file.:)
Love the Jersey and Michigan style axe heads. 3-3 1/2 axe and 6-8lb mauls. Can't beat em! And a hickory handle. Nothing better. Would like to try an ash one sometime!
 
Ironworker

Ironworker

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Dec 5, 2010
Messages
5,393
Age
56
Location
Orange County N.Y.
Just finished splitting with a Gransfors large splitting axe and splitting maul, can't decide which one I like best, they are both good and really make the wood fly apart, by far they are the best splitting tools I've ever used and by a lot also.
 
Top