Tell me about Axes....

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You guys know a splitting maul that can also be used as a sledge? . . . If you can't use the maul as a sledge why the hell do they make the other end flat!?.
Good question. Sledgehammers are softer than other hammers, so that they don't chip when driving a steel wedge. A maul may work: I have not used one for that. Maybe someone else can chime in.

Some of the metal on the other side of the head is also for balance.

Philbert
 
Oh wait a minute, just read the Council Tool blurb about their mauls. Here it is:

Designed to split and "bust" wood, mauls feature a wood cutting blade on one end and a round striking face on the opposite end. The striking face is intended for driving steel wedges that are used in conjunction with splitting logs

If that's true, problem solved.
 
+1
There's a recent thread about them with pics. A nice tool!

Council Tool Maul

Made in USA and around $25.00

FWIW I prefer a good hickory handle splitting axe or maul I just know how it's going to go down in here so I just decided to join them.

My curiosity is peaked on the Council Tools maul based upon CT Yank's thread.

I do believe I am going to give it a try and buff out the head like he did.

It's a cheap enough price to experiment with.

I am curious to see how well it holds up to the abuse that I put the Fiskars through (Mr Over Strike and pry bar usage) along with shock transmission to my hands and arms.

My Fiskar's has been a honey badger of a tool that gets worked hard and I have been thoroughly pleased with it's purchase.
 
My curiosity is peaked on the Council Tools maul based upon CT Yank's thread.

I do believe I am going to give it a try and buff out the head like he did.

It's a cheap enough price to experiment with.

I am curious to see how well it holds up to the abuse that I put the Fiskars through (Mr Over Strike and pry bar usage) along with shock transmission to my hands and arms.

My Fiskar's has been a honey badger of a tool that gets worked hard and I have been thoroughly pleased with it's purchase.

Do you run into a lot of stuff that Fiskars can't handle? If you break out the maul/wedges for stuff the Fiskars is unable to split I'd rather run with the maul to begin with.
 
$20 just got me a 3.5 lb maul with hickory handle. Ill see how she holds up
 
The equation for kinetic energy is:
Unfortunately, kinetic energy is the energy something contains due to velocity... as velocity drops by half, energy drops at the same 4-times rate. A lighter object loses velocity much faster when it meets resistance... such as an ax or maul striking wood. An example of this is demonstrated by ballistics... it's possible to send a lighter bullet from the muzzle at a much higher velocity (and it has a higher kinetic energy at launch). But both bullets meet air resistance as soon as they are launched, and the lighter bullet slows much faster... momentum causes the heavier bullet to lose less relative velocity. At some point down range, the heavier bullet will be traveling faster than the lighter bullet... and it now holds the higher kinetic energy. There's a bit more to it than that... but I believe you see my point.

Kinetic energy is the measure of energy contained by a moving object only at that moment in time (due to it's velocity at that brief moment).
Momentum (p=mv), on the other hand, is a measure of an object's ability to retain energy as it meets resistance.

That's why a light splitting ax works well for straight grained, relatively easy to split wood... it only needs to impart that energy for a relatively brief moment in time (before it loses most of that energy).
But for tough to split wood, even though it contains less energy at the moment of strike, the heavier maul will impart more energy over the length of time needed to complete the split (because it retains more of its energy longer during resistance).

It flat ain't as simple as doing a bit of multiplication and making such claims as yours... there's much more to it.

Follow-through, follow-through, follow-through...
*
 
Do you run into a lot of stuff that Fiskars can't handle? If you break out the maul/wedges for stuff the Fiskars is unable to split I'd rather run with the maul to begin with.

No I don't and I split a lot of big length rounds.

To me not splitting and unable to split are two different scenarios.

Not splitting = Fiskars bouncing back at me or sticks in with a thunk and shows no sign of cracking on either end of the round. I know within a few whacks if it is not going to play nice.

Unable to split = Some forward progression but just does want to give up the ghost. I ran into an oak last year that had this funky twisted grain like the outside of a Twizlers that I wound up wedging and sledging.
 
No I don't and I split a lot of big length rounds.

To me not splitting and unable to split are two different scenarios.

Not splitting = Fiskars bouncing back at me or sticks in with a thunk and shows no sign of cracking on either end of the round. I know within a few whacks if it is not going to play nice.

Unable to split = Some forward progression but just does want to give up the ghost. I ran into an oak last year that had this funky twisted grain like the outside of a Twizlers that I wound up wedging and sledging.

So the Fiskars is sufficient for the majority of stuff you run into. The stuff that over matches it is something that a maul wouldn't be able to crack either. Knowing this, I would be a total idiot if I willingly chose to swing a 6 pound sledge vs the Fiskars. Thanks for the help
 
Unfortunately, kinetic energy is the energy something contains due to velocity... as velocity drops by half, energy drops at the same 4-times rate. A lighter object looses velocity much faster when it meets resistance... such as an ax or maul striking wood. An example of this is demonstrated by ballistics... it's possible to send a lighter bullet from the muzzle at a much higher velocity (and it has a higher kinetic energy at launch). But both bullets meet air resistance as soon as they are launched, and the lighter bullet slows much faster... momentum causes the heavier bullet to lose less relative velocity. At some point down range, the heavier bullet will be traveling faster than the lighter bullet... and it now holds the higher kinetic energy. There's a bit more to it than that... but I believe you see my point.

Kinetic energy is the measure of energy contained by a moving object only at that moment in time (due to it's velocity at that brief moment).
Momentum (p=mv), on the other hand, is a measure of an object's ability to retain energy as it meets resistance.

That's why a light splitting ax works well for straight grained, relatively easy to split wood... it only needs to impart that energy for a relatively brief moment in time (before it loses most of that energy).
But for tough to split wood, even though it contains less energy at the moment of strike, the maul will impart more energy over the length of time needed to complete the split (because it retains more of its energy longer during resistance).

It flat ain't as simple as doing a bit of multiplication and making such claims as yours... there's much more to it.

Follow-through, follow-through, follow-through...
*
Too much conjecture here without anything to back it up. The energy stored in the tool head is determined by mass and velocity according to the equation. You may be thinking of momentum, but that is still only mass * velocity, so they trade off evenly.

What is done with it when it hits and how effectively it splits a certain type of wood is another question, and that is why we use tools with different shapes.

Nonetheless, regardless of the tool it works by transferring the kinetic energy stored in the moving tool into forces that break the fiber bonds, and all the energy you have to work with comes from mass times velocity squared. So assuming you've chosen a tool with a profile well matched to the characteristics of the wood you're splitting, you are still better off swinging it fast compared to a heavier tool swung slower.

Basically, swing the heaviest tool you can get moving fast without sapping all your strength. I'm better off with a 6lb than an 8lb.
 
The stuff that over matches it is something that a maul wouldn't be able to crack either.
How-in-he!! did you get that from his post?
I'll flat tell ya' that there's plenty of rounds my Fiskars wouldn't split with 3, 4, or even more swings... but my 8# maul handled with one.
Most of the Bur Oak I split laughs at that 4# pound Fiskars... but it cringes when I bring out the maul‼
*
 
How-in-he!! did you get that from his post?
I'll flat tell ya' that there's plenty of rounds my Fiskars wouldn't split with 3, 4, or even more swings... but my 8# maul handled with one.
Most of the Bur Oak I split laughs at that 4# pound Fiskars... but it cringes when I bring out the maul‼
*

lol. Well forgive me if I mistook his message. Went firewood scrounging today and I'm worn out.

I asked if he runs into a lot of stuff that his Fiskars couldn't handle. He said "No I don't and I split a lot of big length rounds." So one he splits possibly abnormally long rounds and they are large. If he has to use a wedge and a sledge then it's probably something a maul wouldn't be able to crack either. If the maul could handle it, why the hell would he drag out the sledge and wedges? Just seems like more work to me vs wacking the crap out of it with a maul.

So bottom line is Fiskars can handle most of the stuff it sees. A maul will be able to handle everything a Fiskars can and a little more but will take more energy to do so. Wedge and sledge will handle the outliers. If this is still wrong, I give up. I'll read this thread again tomorrow when I stop being a wuss from firewood hauling.
 
When you all swing an axe/maul, how close do you come to hitting "the mark"? I can't guarantee being within 6" either way. I doubt it would be within a foot with a maul.
 
So bottom line is Fiskars can handle most of the stuff it sees. A maul will be able to handle everything a Fiskars can and a little more but will take more energy to do so. Wedge and sledge will handle the outliers. If this is still wrong, I give up.

Like anything else, no single tool will do anything. Choose the one you feel will best meet your needs, the way you work, your wood, etc. That's why most guys have a few different tools or methods they use.

Philbert
 
The energy stored in the tool head is determined by mass and velocity according to the equation.
No... that's not correct.
You're confusing kinetic energy with "absolute" energy.
Kinetic energy is not "stored" energy, it's a measure of the energy required to accelerate that object up to that particular velocity (whatever that velocity may be in any given moment in time)... kinetic energy has no relationship to "stored" energy. A stretched and secured rubber band "stores" energy... unless constantly powered, a moving object loses energy (on this planet), it does not "store" it.

When you all swing an axe/maul, how close do you come to hitting "the mark"?
On a good day, I can place it in the exact same crack every time... on a bad day, within ½ an inch... on a "way too much beer last night" day, within an inch (whiskey may push it a bit over that).
*
 
I'm with whitespider I can pick a spot and hit it repeatedly or even walk it across the face. I'd be willing to bet a 20 that I could hit a penny if it came to it.
 
Like anything else, no single tool will do anything. Choose the one you feel will best meet your needs, the way you work, your wood, etc. That's why most guys have a few different tools or methods they use.

Philbert

So I'll go with the Fiskars and just leave all the stuff that over matches it to rot in the woods lol. I'll be a uppity scrounger.
 
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