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As already mentioned above, tarnish like that can build up for several reasons.
Cold running, not getting hot enough to burn off the moisture is the most common cause that can cause that, oil type can also contribute, ie low detergent oil.
Consider that if you see it on the dipstick, its also coated the rest of the internals with a thin film like that too.

So, you can either change your oil more frequently re how many months since last change, not on kms alone, or use a high detergent diesel rated oil to clean up the inside of the motor and then return to your usual oil with more frequent changes if doing low kms cold running.
Or just take the car for a longer run, so its brought up to operating temp for a longer period, giving it a flogging wont help it much, but getting it to operating temp and keeping it there will be more beneficial.

Cheers

T
 
Consider that if you see it on the dipstick, its also coated the rest of the internals with a thin film like that too.


Or just take the car for a longer run, so its brought up to operating temp for a longer period, giving it a flogging wont help it much, but getting it to operating temp and keeping it there will be more beneficial

Yes that was my concern that if the internals were coated and wear tolerance wronged

And agree wont flog it more a good long trip as again if the internals are coated & all that varnish plaque come off at once it may clog the oil lines and give the car a oil supply stroke..
 
Yes that was my concern that if the internals were coated and wear tolerance wronged

And agree wont flog it more a good long trip as again if the internals are coated & all that varnish plaque come off at once it may clog the oil lines and give the car a oil supply stroke..

Yeah, I dont think it will all come off at once and clog oil lines, not at this early stage, if it was baked on thick, and rocker cover was full of the stuff, then you need to physically clean the rocker cover as thats where the moisture ends up condensing and causing issues first.
My suggestion would be to use a multi fleet high detergent diesel oil of the correct Weight that is ok for petrol, and let the oil do the work of cleaning out the motor, then return to your normal oil of choice, and change that oil more frequently if its only doing short cold runs.

On older cars, cleaning up the engine with an oil flush, or diesel oil could lead to the rings being cleaned, and it start to blow blue smoke, but if it did this, the motor was usually well worn, and the jap engines of the 70s were pretty poor compared to todays build quality.
Have used the high detergent diesel oil to clean up poorly maintained engines before, and some did start to use oil and burn a bit for 2-3000kms untill the oil had cleaned and dissolved all the crud on the oil control rings and then once clean and freed up, the motor stopped burning oil and the exhaust cleaned up, taking the engine apart some time later showed the effectiveness of cleaning like this.
I would not recommend using an oil flush additive before the next oil change, but thats my personal preference from experience.

If you are planning on keeping the car for years, then change the oil more frequently if its only doing short cold running.

I change out the hilux oils at 2500 to 3200 depending on how much cold running they do, as 2stroke nut knows, those old 2.8 diesels are a sooty motor, and cold short runs in a diesel is not good for them, and since they are a sooty pre combustion chamber engine, if you let the oil thicken, you run the risk of spinning a big end in those engines, oil is cheap compared to a rebuild.

speaking of poor maintenance, I finally replaced the shocks on the ute, only to find the drivers side lower shock mount bolt was frozen solid.

Tried penatrent oil, heat from gas torch, press tools, and a bfh, and finally drilled out the bolt when nothing worked, only to break off the 10mm drill bit, something I dont normally do, as I take care when drilling.
Finally found the reason the bolt would not move, some muppet had used part of a drill bit to hammer into the lower shock mount to stop it moving as it was so flogged out. That explains why my drill bit broke. Not expecting that level of muppetry.
Out with the welder to build up the shock mount on the diff, and finally its all fixed, now I need a few days to recover, grrrr.

boltshock.jpg shockboltdrilled.jpg shockmounthole.jpg

Some people should not be allowed near a vehicle at all :)

T
 
i busted the swivel spline crank boss on my 1974 TY250 kickstarter i may need you to weld that if the 1974 DT250 i ordered dont fit like i hope it will

How hard is it to get 1974 6 watt head - tail light globes,,, its fuggen hard but i found some

T250

I've been fitting those after market halogen globes to my bikes in the past but going to look for a low watt LED. The halogen aren't too bad but they draw a heap of current and LED should draw about 10 times less for the same light.

droped one down a bush track needed some more fire wood :)
View attachment 662333

Got a heap of that Blackwood in my dry pile but don't want to burn that ****. Some people say if your on tank water don't burn it as it contaminates your water, but I don't know.

Going a long way up bush today as I need another couple of trailer loads of dry stuff to get me through the rest of winter. 2 wood fired combustion heaters and an open fire place to keep up with is keeping me real busy now. Glad Ive got the carbide chain as I tend to get a lot of **** that blunts out normal chain and gets left behind
 
Did you borrow your boyfriends new wheelbarrow?

narsty gay remarks now now chippy.

I've been fitting those after market halogen globes to my bikes in the past but going to look for a low watt LED. The halogen aren't too bad but they draw a heap of current and LED should draw about 10 times less for the same light.



Got a heap of that Blackwood in my dry pile but don't want to burn that ****. Some people say if your on tank water don't burn it as it contaminates your water, but I don't know.

Going a long way up bush today as I need another couple of trailer loads of dry stuff to get me through the rest of winter. 2 wood fired combustion heaters and an open fire place to keep up with is keeping me real busy now. Glad Ive got the carbide chain as I tend to get a lot of **** that blunts out normal chain and gets left behind

iv only ever had a problem when i had a chimny cap from the crud building up on it then droping it on the roof and getting washed in to the tank but that would happen with any wood. i burn all woods even pine most people are just full of **** and as dum as dog ****.
 
narsty gay remarks now now chippy

I thought it was quite apt given it's lovely pink colour, funny too.

That crud that builds up in the flu all fell down on to the top of my damper and blocked the flu. Before I realised it the house had filled with an acrid smoke. I couldn't see more than 3 feet in front of me. The air inlet turned into the flu when that happened. House stank of stale smoke for 3 or 4 weeks afterwards....cleaned it all out, got the fire roaring and guess what, same thing happened the next night....

I don't run it hot long enough as it's really efficient and works great when shut down, I run it 24/7 over winter except to clean it out and it doesn't use much timber but keeps the house around 20 so toasty
 
I have a wood stove that has a water jacket and back flue way that basically surrounds the fire on the side and back, thus taking lots of temp out of the fire and flu gasses.
Depending on the wood, I need to sweep weekly, if not at least every 4-6 weeks, just one of the things you have to do.
Wood is dry, under 10%, burns brightly, just what happens when you use it to heat water, and it cools the flu gasses.

But it heats the entire house, keeps it at around 19-21 c, cooks our food, and gives us hot water, for one lot of chopped wood, go thru about a heaped wheel barrow load (not coloured pink) hehe, in 2 days, but thats burning constantly, no idling, on constant heat setting, oven sitting around 200-220.
if we get any wet wood, the damn thing blocks up pretty quick, and its time to let it burn out, and spend 2 hrs cleaning it again.
Still heaps cheaper, and lovely heat compared to reverse cycle.
 
I thought it was quite apt given it's lovely pink colour, funny too.

That crud that builds up in the flu all fell down on to the top of my damper and blocked the flu. Before I realised it the house had filled with an acrid smoke. I couldn't see more than 3 feet in front of me. The air inlet turned into the flu when that happened. House stank of stale smoke for 3 or 4 weeks afterwards....cleaned it all out, got the fire roaring and guess what, same thing happened the next night....

I don't run it hot long enough as it's really efficient and works great when shut down, I run it 24/7 over winter except to clean it out and it doesn't use much timber but keeps the house around 20 so toasty

cheep crappy red powder coat fades dam quick .
that would have been a bugger with the damper getting blocked up like that.
we get quick weather changers and the air pressure out side gets grater then inside and pushers smoke back down the flu into the house.
i cleen my flu out 2 times ayear one at the start of winter and the end i burn for 8 months a year and i dont have a damper.
 
I have a wood stove that has a water jacket and back flue way that basically surrounds the fire on the side and back, thus taking lots of temp out of the fire and flu gasses.
Depending on the wood, I need to sweep weekly, if not at least every 4-6 weeks, just one of the things you have to do.
Wood is dry, under 10%, burns brightly, just what happens when you use it to heat water, and it cools the flu gasses.

But it heats the entire house, keeps it at around 19-21 c, cooks our food, and gives us hot water, for one lot of chopped wood, go thru about a heaped wheel barrow load (not coloured pink) hehe, in 2 days, but thats burning constantly, no idling, on constant heat setting, oven sitting around 200-220.
if we get any wet wood, the damn thing blocks up pretty quick, and its time to let it burn out, and spend 2 hrs cleaning it again.
Still heaps cheaper, and lovely heat compared to reverse cycle.

i burn dry wet and green beggers got to take what they can get.
 
Nothing beats the glow of a fire and the sound of rain on the tin roof.

Best form of heat, for sure, but bloody dusty and hard work keeping up with it.

I'm using that much of it I'm not selling any more
 
i burn dry wet and green beggers got to take what they can get.

Yeah, hear what your saying, we have to have dry wood, so we cut, cart, split and stack so we have enough to put aside for the next or the following year depending on if its dead wood at 30% or just felled wet wood.
Thankfully after a few years, we have now got a system in place so we have enough for the following year, and all the wood we get is for next year or after, took some work and planning, but we eventually got there, just hope we dont have a fire come thru in summer, and loose the lot, but thats the risk with anything I spose. Were heating an old stone house, draughty windows, doors etc, but it worth the effort and planning to have proper dry wood to burn.
cooks ok tooturkeybacon17.jpg
 
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