The "Not So Pro" discussion thread...of course Pros are welcome!

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yup, factory has it pretty well figured out.

you have to stay in a range of length though, 36" on a 461 is pushing yer luck for example (but then the clutch isn't up to it anyway)

Keep an eye peeled fer hot spots, usually close to the power head on the under side or the nose will get hot, either one.

This is different then a pinch hot spot though, or if yer running a super dull chain (where most of the "saw junkies" get confused) a dull chain is working 4 times as hard anyway, and therefore creating that much more heat.
 
The pinch blued spots are generally fairly short, only a couple inches or so, I've only seen it on falling saws (mostly my own) logs sitting back can do it but its rare and hardly ever from firewood, but the whole damned tree sitting back or overcutting the hold wood can squish a bar pretty quick.
 
I don't fall or cut much compared to you but I have pinched and chipped the rails falling a time or two. The blued bars I was referring to are usually in the 10" cutting zone of many firewooders, though I have seen a couple blued almost full length top and bottom. Maybe they had no oil but I doubt it. Frequently at the woodlot there will be some guy wearing himself and the saw out chewing through something with an obvious super dull chain. Since every American male knows how to run a chainsaw, many reject a polite offer to lend a fresh chain. I digress.

Without a contrary opinion here, I'll not give much credence to those contending that a saw won't adequately oil a bar within the manufacturer's recommended lengths.

Ron
 
I'm a gonna put this here, cause I don't feel like starting a new thread...

Using a Yoder, how does a guy usually get the sky line out in the bushes? I don't remember ever seeing a haulback winch on any yoders.

Does a guy just have to drag it out into the brush (which **** that ****) or use the tong tosser method and chuck it as far as possible.
 
Another way to blue a bar is cutting on fires. The heat boils the oil right off of the bar. I also have in my weird dead parts collection an oiler gear that melted away so that it wouldn't be driven by the arm, so the bar wouldn't oil even when the saw cooled down. The same saw developed a crack in the clutch drum where the oiler arm notch is. Operator was lucky it didn't grenade on him. This is why I inspect every saw at the end of every season.
 
sadly, that reflects the prices on yarders right now, granted that one is asking about twice what anyone is willing to pay for it.

Looks like a repainted Christy, which I would happily own if someone had the money to throw at it...

Noticed a 94 hitachi ex120 as well... you should buy that and spend all yer money over the last 6 months making it reliable...
 
I tried to warn you about those Stihls! They're junk! Hahaha.

I quit running my chains that long. When they start ripping teeth off they don't cut for **** anyway. Honestly just before the witness marks I've got my rakers down about .050 and it's all they can do to grab decent. I've also had metal extracted from both eyes that flew off the bar or chain. Somehow it made it through my bugz goggles. The one time I left it too long, it started rusting, and they had to use a little Dremel to shave my lens away.
 
Damn...

Honestly I thought I could safely get one more use out of this chain... I was of course wrong.

I blame boring for it getting totally chowdered though, was cutting fine before.

The saw is done fixed and ready fer action, saw shop had it back to me in less then an hour.
 
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