The "Not So Pro" discussion thread...of course Pros are welcome!

[rwoods]

Thanks, I’ll did that some as it was the only way I could figure to stay ahead of it. I will work on doing it more. I just see these guys just slice through so I thought I was doing something wrong.

So is that what you folks mean by chip clearance when talking about skip chain? I have some skip square that cuts well (I have only cut green wood with it) - just haven’t figured out how to sharpen it. The local saw shop gave me a file as no around here one uses square and they have had the one file for years. I digress. The full comp semi-chisel I was using stays sharp but it does chatter some in the dead wood. This was a dead tree. At least half of the ones I am asked to cut are dead.

Now about those mismatched cuts. I tend to drift to the right. Maybe I over compensated because I was 3 to 4 “ to the left on that first cut. Other than more practice any tips to close the gap. I cut as far as I can reach on the first cut and try to keep the tip in the cut while on the back side but even then I may leave a thin wafer. If I cut and pivot down then cut to move the pivot point, I get a better ride than just cutting straight down (less bar tip / kick back action) but I end up with the wafer. If I cut straight down the cuts usually match better but it is a rough ride.

Thanks again.

Ron

 

[rwoods]

NM, just now seeing your post. I was using factory fresh chain and it pulls into the wood good - enough so I have to pull back to keep the dogs from sticking. I do tend to lean on the saw when pivoting with the dogs. I’ll pay more attention.

Thanks, Ron

 

[rwoods]

You can’t see it in the picture but my first cut drifted right and then too far to the left at the bottom. Something about my grip and the straight MAC handle that I always drift to the right unless I constantly assert a twist with my left hand. New chain new bar makes no difference so I assume it is my grip. Don’t have the problem with my little Stihls.

Ron

 

[Trx250r180]

Are you plugging up in the cutters or getting the bar groove plugged with pitch and locking the chain to the bar ? Skip chain is better in big wood for me , a trick i do to line up cuts when cant see the other side if your saw has a sight like a stihl across the top of the saw square it up with the log by eyeball and it should cut strait ,can scribe a line with the bar tip in the bark also with the bar tip and cut down the line also

 

[northmanlogging]

As for crooked cuts?

Maybe change position on the front handle or less pressure on front handle, i tend to lean on mine and get similar results as to straightness.

On big wood its just tough to get things lined up, a tiny bit off at the start magnifies over 4' of wood.

 

[Bwildered]

Thanks, I’ll did that some as it was the only way I could figure to stay ahead of it. I will work on doing it more. I just see these guys just slice through so I thought I was doing something wrong.

So is that what you folks mean by chip clearance when talking about skip chain? I have some skip square that cuts well (I have only cut green wood with it) - just haven’t figured out how to sharpen it. The local saw shop gave me a file as no around here one uses square and they have had the one file for years. I digress. The full comp semi-chisel I was using stays sharp but it does chatter some in the dead wood. This was a dead tree. At least half of the ones I am asked to cut are dead.

Now about those mismatched cuts. I tend to drift to the right. Maybe I over compensated because I was 3 to 4 “ to the left on that first cut. Other than more practice any tips to close the gap. I cut as far as I can reach on the first cut and try to keep the tip in the cut while on the back side but even then I may leave a thin wafer. If I cut and pivot down then cut to move the pivot point, I get a better ride than just cutting straight down (less bar tip / kick back action) but I end up with the wafer. If I cut straight down the cuts usually match better but it is a rough ride.

Thanks again.

Ron

 

[Bwildered]

try full chisel, it cuts straighter, also do your first cut over the top until the saw is perpendicular, then follow the cut back down & under, finish the cut with the tip on the outside of the log, not with the bar buried.
Usually when cuts dont line up the chain or bar needs attention, thats when you normally line them up though.

 

[rwoods]

BW, not sure I am following you as I have to bury the bar for the center cuts to reach. Of course it is the very center. I make the deepest cut first so if lined up the second cut is not buried until you get close to the center - that is if I keep them lined up.

NM, missing isn’t usually a big deal for firewood, but with my medical exertion limitations busting these big ones apart can be challenging. I assumed that loggers pretty much had this down to a science to get the most at the mill. I’ll keep at it.

Ron

 

[Skeans]

I’m more of a relaxed on the handles with the husky’s I’ll normally run more towards the wrap side all the way through the cut using the dawgs and the chain to my advantage. To the chip clean out it’s let the chain eat without forcing it, I’m not a full skip fan myself I don’t care for the vibrations I typically run semi skip or full comp for giggles would going to 3/8’s with the smaller cutter help with your load up issue?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rwoods]

I’m more of a relaxed on the handles with the husky’s I’ll normally run more towards the wrap side all the way through the cut using the dawgs and the chain to my advantage. To the chip clean out it’s let the chain eat without forcing it, I’m not a full skip fan myself I don’t care for the vibrations I typically run semi skip or full comp for giggles would going to 3/8’s with the smaller cutter help with your load up issue?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably now that I think about it. Always have a lot of chip build up with my 125s but they motor on - I bet 15” of the 33” bar on one of my 125s still has at least 1/2” of wood chips in it from my last venture with it. My 125s are hard to keep a snug chain. I only run .404 on them. Never been a big issue with 3/8s on my 800s - the chains stay snug and I usually run a 33” bar with 3/8s so running buried is far less than with a 25” bar. Just got real frustrating yesterday when a snug chain would bind up at the tip and the only way I could clear it was to remove the chain. Probably a combination of the extra chips and the buried tip.

Ron

 

[northmanlogging]

Ill put this here, maybe start a few arguments!

 

[woodfarmer]

So without getting too political

thanks to a certain failed trade deal, by a certain president

Entire barges of logs have been turned back from china, this means that MY MONEY has been delayed, and probably also means lower log prices

Granted by now I think everything is back on track, but it really messes things up when the one export yard in this part of the state stops taking logs, and the first time I can remember 3 other mills are full up, largely because of this trade deal.

Luckily the next coupl weeks Im just going to be digging dirt

The same certain president blaming Canadians for the millions of board feet of lumber laying waste on US of A forest floors, must have been a wild pack of Canadian beavers

 

[northmanlogging]

Got muh niece learned up on runnin saw today...

Grampa said no as to felling anything, even if it was just a yule tree...



She's 16? A bird of a thing but absolutely fearless

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I have been cutting several 60'' logs lately. Was getting a little frustrated with my cuts not being exact. I would cut and by the time I reached half way would often be an inch off. One half inch is my allowance for 60'' logs. So I would mark with chalk most of the cut or pretty all the way around. I like using a 30'' bar because most of the larger logs are 36''. So on the back side would cut about 14 to 16'' then finish with the side in front of me. For most part have been coming with in a half inch. Thanks

 

[madhatte]

A bird of a thing but absolutely fearless

Way better to have to teach somebody what to be respectful of than to have to talk them through unnecessary fear. Props!

 

[northmanlogging]

Maybe not the safest practice, branch got stuck in clutch linkage, had to jack er up a bit...

1953 cat d6

78 yr old cat skinner

So far pulled 24 loads off this project, more to go

 

[2dogs]

Maybe not the safest practice, branch got stuck in clutch linkage, had to jack er up a bit...

1953 cat d6

78 yr old cat skinner

So far pulled 24 loads off this project, more to goView attachment 691542

I ran a 1952 or 1953 D8 a little bit a few years back. It was a pony motor start which I always had to have the owner show me what to do. I only used it a few times and I couldn't remember the procedure. However it was a hard nose full hydraulic ex military machine with a seat that sat two guys. The gas tank was up near the radiator, one time the owner reached up to shut the petcock and stuck a finger into the fan. He could never reach into a bowl of peanuts for a snack because they always dribbled out.

 

[northmanlogging]

That ones converted to electric, luckily cause it's only the third time I ever drove a cat was unloading after an 80 mile drive across one ferry and a floating bridge.

They are trying to sell me one like it but with hydraulic blade...

 

[catbuster]

Maybe not the safest practice, branch got stuck in clutch linkage, had to jack er up a bit...

1953 cat d6

78 yr old cat skinner

So far pulled 24 loads off this project, more to goView attachment 691542

I remember seeing these (not my pictures) a few years back. I think you’re doing a safer practice there.

Methinks a cute little Cat like that would pair nicely with your 120. (Or is it a 160?)

 

[2dogs]

A different ranch I worked on as a kid had a D2 dozer with a pony motor. Those little Cats seemed pretty sketchy on sidehills. I don't know cause I was too young to drive. I just remember all the cross talk.

We contracted out all the heavy work like road building in the rocks.