The "Not So Pro" discussion thread...of course Pros are welcome!

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Its a Stihl product, it'll hold up lol

On that note, I smashed the air filter cover on an 036 skidder saw recently, and I have no idea how it even happened, I'm assuming the winch line did something weird and caught it? ...)

Until yesterday, an 036 Pro was the last new saw I purchased. I love that saw. It also makes a good chock:
IMG_2966.JPG

Which brings me to my point: Back in 2013, @Trx250r180 graciously gave me some oem covers to replace mine. I was able to make mine workable by heating them with my wife's hair dryer. I have found no way to return his favor so I will pay it forward to you if you like - just shoot me a PM with your address and I will send them to you.

Ron
 
Until yesterday, an 036 Pro was the last new saw I purchased. I love that saw. It also makes a good chock:
View attachment 864651

Which brings me to my point: Back in 2013, @Trx250r180 graciously gave me some oem covers to replace mine. I was able to make mine workable by heating them with my wife's hair dryer. I have found no way to return his favor so I will pay it forward to you if you like - just shoot me a PM with your address and I will send them to you.

Ron
Local saw shop still has a scrap pile, already got one, appreciate the thought though.
 
Sorry, WF, I barely take pictures.

As most of you know I am just a firewood cutter. Below is my usual two saw set up full of fuel and oil , a Mcculloch PM800 with a 25" Stihl bar .404" chain skip or full depending on what I last put on it and a 60cc Stihl with a 20" bar and 3/8" full comp (often I substitute a MS361 for the 036PRO - just depends on which has a sharp chain on it - 361 was barless today so ...):
IMG_5670.JPG

IMG_5671.JPG
IMG_5672.JPG
IMG_5673.JPG

The do it all MS500i full of fuel and oil with 25" lite bar full comp 3/8":
IMG_5675.JPG
IMG_5677.JPG

The doc says I need to lose some weight; I just lost 22.5 pounds.

Ron
 
How much pin oak will a 500i cut on one tank? See below. My MAC would have used at least two tanks if not three.

Everything in front of the sidewalk was cut to firewood length, including those trashy pieces. The larger round pieces are between 27" to 30" in diameter and are bucked into three pieces each.
IMG_5703.JPG

Plus this:
IMG_5700.JPG

I cut up a 27" red oak at another site. Before the morning was over, I used 2 3/4 tanks. I don't know about logging but for my use it appears to be a winner.

Pros: Seems to have as much torque as my 82cc MACs. Higher speed than my MACs. You can feel and appreciate the weight difference immediately.

Cons: The Owner's manual was missing several pages only to find that the information is so slight that it really made no difference. Without information beyond pump the purger at least 8 times before starting, I am going to assume that the following is just part of the learning curve as opposed to an issue with the saw: Like my fuel injected truck, the saw gives no warning that it is about to suck the tank dry. It just runs wide open and then dies. Also like my truck it takes a lot of cranking to restart after running out of fuel. Unlike my truck which has no purger, you can flood the saw or not (can't really tell but the OM does tell you how to deal with a flooded saw). I have yet to experience a one pull cold start. This may all be due to a dry tank. One pull starts after it is warm, but all my saws usually do that.

Too early to draw conclusions, but I believe this may become my main do it all saw.

Ron

PS New lite bar looks like an old bar. Things got a little hot in a crotch knot with a dull chain.
 
Also like my truck it takes a lot of cranking to restart after running out of fuel. Unlike my truck which has no purger,

you can flood the saw

Too early to draw conclusions, but I believe this may become my main do it all saw.

Ron

PS New lite bar looks like an old bar. Things got a little hot in a crotch knot with a dull chain.

1. Every MS 441 I’ve ever ran was or is a mother to try to restart after it ran out of fuel. I’m not quite sure why some saws behave that way. I ran a 395 that was awful about that, it was a fuel line routing issue.

2. Nothing floods like a Stihl, and things get worse the bigger the saws get. I guess they’ve kept that “feature.” :confused:

3. I hope this saw is as good as people say, I haven’t seen one yet, let alone run one.

4. My Stihl light bars don’t like to get hot either. I don’t think anybody here, well maybe the chainsaw “enthusiasts” (read: prudes), will judge you on that.
 
How much pin oak will a 500i cut on one tank? See below. My MAC would have used at least two tanks if not three.

Everything in front of the sidewalk was cut to firewood length, including those trashy pieces. The larger round pieces are between 27" to 30" in diameter and are bucked into three pieces each.
View attachment 865071

Plus this:
View attachment 865073

I cut up a 27" red oak at another site. Before the morning was over, I used 2 3/4 tanks. I don't know about logging but for my use it appears to be a winner.

Pros: Seems to have as much torque as my 82cc MACs. Higher speed than my MACs. You can feel and appreciate the weight difference immediately.

Cons: The Owner's manual was missing several pages only to find that the information is so slight that it really made no difference. Without information beyond pump the purger at least 8 times before starting, I am going to assume that the following is just part of the learning curve as opposed to an issue with the saw: Like my fuel injected truck, the saw gives no warning that it is about to suck the tank dry. It just runs wide open and then dies. Also like my truck it takes a lot of cranking to restart after running out of fuel. Unlike my truck which has no purger, you can flood the saw or not (can't really tell but the OM does tell you how to deal with a flooded saw). I have yet to experience a one pull cold start. This may all be due to a dry tank. One pull starts after it is warm, but all my saws usually do that.

Too early to draw conclusions, but I believe this may become my main do it all saw.

Ron

PS New lite bar looks like an old bar. Things got a little hot in a crotch knot with a dull chain.
all the new stihl bars skimp on paint, which I don't see as a problem since if its used it likely won't have paint or rust for long

Buddy of mine picked up a 500i had it approximately 3 days, let another cutter barrow it for a day... he never returned it lol, few weeks prior same guy was telling me that stihls are junk 394xp this 288xp that... Dude did eventually pay for the saw, but it he took it home first lol.
 
What does it mean, when the mill you have never ever sent logs to, sends you the current price lists, un asked?

Like are ya all hurting for wood? Or did you get a new guy that got ahold of my email and wants to make friends.

Or is my reputation proceeding me? Which even asking the question feels pretentious lol and just a bit egotistical...
 
all the new stihl bars skimp on paint, which I don't see as a problem since if its used it likely won't have paint or rust for long

Buddy of mine picked up a 500i had it approximately 3 days, let another cutter barrow it for a day... he never returned it lol, few weeks prior same guy was telling me that stihls are junk 394xp this 288xp that... Dude did eventually pay for the saw, but it he took it home first lol.
in other news...

that same buddy replaced the first 500i, and I got to play with it today in some real life work, its about broke in and holey ole fawk is that thing a ripper. This one was wearing a 28' and a full wrap, handled like my 036's but cut like a hopped up 461/661 even with the dull chain it was wearing.
 
Though I enjoyed falling a good patch of ash in 2019 and a patch of oaks last season, I haven't had much falling fun since my 2017 venture in a park falling between picnic tables, spigots and posts which let to naming my fictitious company, Blind Squirrel Falling. However, 2021/22 is looking to start with some fun.

Our county has built a nice shooting range. The range is loaded with dead ash trees that should have been cut a year ago. They want them all taken down. That should be sufficiently challenging to keep me excited for a few weekends. Fun aside, I promise to wear my hat, look up regularly and boogie.

Ron
 
@northmanlogging @catbuster Real world question: At the range today I cut a real nice red oak. Probably 60’ to the first limb. Best I can figure the stem weighs 12,000#. Not accessible by truck or my little tractor, however, the range has a 750 Deere I can use. Drawbar only. I have to pull it out with the butt in the rear. Deere stats are 32000# with 32000# of drawbar pull at 1 mph. Do you think it can pull it in one piece assuming a relatively clear and flat path? Should I consider pulling it backwards so I can lift the end up with the blade? Getting it out in one piece will make my life much simpler.

Thanks, Ron
 
@northmanlogging @catbuster Real world question: At the range today I cut a real nice red oak. Probably 60’ to the first limb. Best I can figure the stem weighs 12,000#. Not accessible by truck or my little tractor, however, the range has a 750 Deere I can use. Drawbar only. I have to pull it out with the butt in the rear. Deere stats are 32000# with 32000# of drawbar pull at 1 mph. Do you think it can pull it in one piece assuming a relatively clear and flat path? Should I consider pulling it backwards so I can lift the end up with the blade? Getting it out in one piece will make my life much simpler.

Thanks, Ron

A 750 is a pretty capable tractor at that weight & somewhere around 150 horsepower, it’ll do it, and a lot more, with no problem. If you can choke the butt end and hook it to lift, I would, especially if the distance is short. Preventing the leading end from digging makes your life a lot easier, and that dozer should balance the weight and keep the finals on the ground, which gives you more lift and makes steering easier.

I’ll throw an edit here to say that you can see a lot better in reverse with most dozers, too, if your neck can take looking backwards.
 
@northmanlogging @catbuster Real world question: At the range today I cut a real nice red oak. Probably 60’ to the first limb. Best I can figure the stem weighs 12,000#. Not accessible by truck or my little tractor, however, the range has a 750 Deere I can use. Drawbar only. I have to pull it out with the butt in the rear. Deere stats are 32000# with 32000# of drawbar pull at 1 mph. Do you think it can pull it in one piece assuming a relatively clear and flat path? Should I consider pulling it backwards so I can lift the end up with the blade? Getting it out in one piece will make my life much simpler.

Thanks, Ron
Choke it short to the drawbar and see if it will list the small end (which is what I assume you mean by butt to the rear as in away from the tractor).
If you can get even a small amount of lift that takes a lot of the effort out of moving logs, and puts that much more weight on the drive tires, all good things.

If you can get the draw bar under it choke it so the log rides on the draw bar, carefull of PTO output and various other fragile bits back there though...

Might have to lop it in half to make it work though.
 
Here I was assuming a 750 tractor...

a 750 dozer will drag that whole log limbs and all... breaking everything weaker in the way...
On the money:
IMG_6495.JPG

Deere 750B LT with about 12,500# of red oak attached - 55' stem at the cut and 20' above. No problem. Later pulled a large forked poplar. As you guys said it cleaned out everything in its way - which was plenty with the fork.

NM. it was one of your posts in another thread that raised the question in my mind since it was going to be a dead drag for a short distance before I could rig it to by lifted. Also had in mind grenadeing my hydraulic winch last season with a dead drag.

First dozer I have operated that steers with your feet - and that has no hand holds (I assume they want to force belt use).

Ron
 
On the money:
View attachment 939702

Deere 750B LT with about 12,500# of red oak attached - 55' stem at the cut and 20' above. No problem. Later pulled a large forked poplar. As you guys said it cleaned out everything in its way - which was plenty with the fork.

NM. it was one of your posts in another thread that raised the question in my mind since it was going to be a dead drag for a short distance before I could rig it to by lifted. Also had in mind grenadeing my hydraulic winch last season with a dead drag.

First dozer I have operated that steers with your feet - and that has no hand holds (I assume they want to force belt use).

Ron
Mini tractor skidding and TRACTOR skidding are 2 different animals...

I ran a 550? with the foot steer, not a fan it works well enough, but it takes a considerable amount of effort vs using standard hand reigns or more modern joystick/toggle controls, not to mention if your on a hill getting to the brakes, and the dethrottle can be tricky, not to mention my usual gripe with the gimpy club foot just not having enough control for that sort of finesse work. Pretty sure it was one of those ideas that enginerds come up with having never actually operated a machine outside of a laboratory condition.

Dozes have seat belts?
 
Going back and forth between my little tractor and the dozer, I found myself pushing the left pedal and wondering why isn't this thing stopping. I assume the middle pedal is a deceleration pedal, but I don't know and didn't try it. I have moved a new D-6 a few times but this 750B is the largest dozer I have ever actually done any work. The next down was a Deere 700. It was like the Cat, pure luxury - A/C, stereo, and comfy seat. Left hand controlled movement and right hand the blade. Feet had nothing to do though there was a pedal for deceleration and a pedal for the throttle IIRC.

Ron
 
A death ash of yesterday. First movement and the stem breaks 20' up leaving the main stem standing. Had to wedge it over. My hat is off to the hazard faller. A steady diet could include your last meal.

View attachment 939736

View attachment 939737

Ron
I like a ludacrisly large face cut on stubby snags, and fall em with the lean when ever possible.

the dozer I ran had one big peddle in the middle (or maybe it was 2 but real close together?) and a decelerator off by itself on the right, so if you had a little bit of talent you could use the left foot to steer and the right to control throttle... but the left is the one devoid of talent lol, so counting on it to hit both sides equally was a crap shoot.

I've played with a couple dozers that had the left hand drive controls... makes even me look like an old pro with a dozer, though I kinda like the old deere reign/brake controls, feels like your actually doing something and I think you have more of a "feel" for what the machine is doing. Just seems to be ever so slight of a delay with the hydraulic/wire controls of modern stuff... its negligible for the benefits just an observation.

the older Cat type reign with the hand clutch-foot brake steer controls, with a hand main clutch are an absolute PITA, but you do get pretty good control with them.
 

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