They have a good range.
The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread
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JohnL
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have a PM605 brick, 20 in bar with the 370 stamped chain. It has weird anti-vibe damper links. Do you know who made the chain, Oregon?
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I don't know for a fact who made the McCulloch branded chain at that time, but Carlton was producing a similar chain in the same time period. McCulloch also offered that guard link design in .325 and 3/8 LP. The .325 in this case is a chisel (Super Pro or SP) designation where the full 3/8 is semi-chisel (Pro Mac or PM) designation and the LP chain is Mini Pro or MP semi-chisel.
Mark
Mark
JohnL
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thank You, it is 3/8 pitch. Guard links are marked L and R left/right, but just 370 on the drive links. Looks like PM370 GLX from your pictures.
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MiteyF
ArboristSite Lurker
This came in a lot of 5 non-running saws for $40, so it cost me $8.
The bar was (somehow) super crooked, and it was missing the air filter. New filter, fuel line, carb rebuild, and a bar/chain. Sooner or later the starter's going to need some love (tends to skip every now and again), but for now I've got about $90 into it, and she's a real sweetheart.
The bar was (somehow) super crooked, and it was missing the air filter. New filter, fuel line, carb rebuild, and a bar/chain. Sooner or later the starter's going to need some love (tends to skip every now and again), but for now I've got about $90 into it, and she's a real sweetheart.
Pro 10-10A or PM55? Either way they are great old saws.
Mark
Mark
MiteyF
ArboristSite Lurker
It's the Pro 10-10 Auto, just like you've got pictured. I see you've got the aftermarket recoil guard, sooner or later mine will need one of those too. It's definitely a bit worse for wear.
I think it's probably an earlier saw, no safety on the throttle, just the trigger and the little starting knob (not sure what those are called, that block the throttle open a hair).
I think it's probably an earlier saw, no safety on the throttle, just the trigger and the little starting knob (not sure what those are called, that block the throttle open a hair).
I make those on my 3D printer. The current version has square openings to look more like the OEM ones.
Mark
Mark
MiteyF
ArboristSite Lurker
Are the files available for download? It looks nice.
I have a couple questions about the rebuild of my McCulloch Mac 10-10 Automatic.
1: Since I had to take the points stuff out to remove the cylinder I will have to put it back together, but I’m not at all experienced with points and condenser, I know it had spark and it started with some 2 cycle mix poured into the carb but besides that I know you have to gap it and time it and do some other things, but I’m not sure how to do that.
Help would be appreciated, also can I skip that and put an ignition chip in it or is there more to it.
2: I honed the cylinder but this was my first time honing and I am really paranoid if I did something wrong, I know I had the right size hone because it matched the size of the bore but I just want to know if there is anything related to the cylinder or honing that I should be worried about.
3: How do I remove the oil line?
4: when I put the new oil seals back in is there any kind of paste or sealing I should put in it? If so, what should I put on it and where?
5: Is there specific gaskets I should put some kind of sealant on? If so, what should I put on it and which gasket should I put it on?
6: ring gap? Help installing piston? Advice needed.
1: Since I had to take the points stuff out to remove the cylinder I will have to put it back together, but I’m not at all experienced with points and condenser, I know it had spark and it started with some 2 cycle mix poured into the carb but besides that I know you have to gap it and time it and do some other things, but I’m not sure how to do that.
Help would be appreciated, also can I skip that and put an ignition chip in it or is there more to it.
2: I honed the cylinder but this was my first time honing and I am really paranoid if I did something wrong, I know I had the right size hone because it matched the size of the bore but I just want to know if there is anything related to the cylinder or honing that I should be worried about.
3: How do I remove the oil line?
4: when I put the new oil seals back in is there any kind of paste or sealing I should put in it? If so, what should I put on it and where?
5: Is there specific gaskets I should put some kind of sealant on? If so, what should I put on it and which gasket should I put it on?
6: ring gap? Help installing piston? Advice needed.
Mitey - I have to pay an Engineer to create the drawings for me so I don't give them away, sorry.
Melon - I answered your questions in the original thread. No sealant is needed on any gaskets, but you may find it beneficial to use some Pliobond or similar adhesive to stick the gaskets and insulator on the cylinder and the gaskets and spacer in the air box. If the piston has locating pins for the ring ends you can't really do anything beyond installing the new rings. If there are no locating pins McCulloch recommended 0.005 to 0.012", I try to achieve 0.006-0.008" on those.
Mark
Melon - I answered your questions in the original thread. No sealant is needed on any gaskets, but you may find it beneficial to use some Pliobond or similar adhesive to stick the gaskets and insulator on the cylinder and the gaskets and spacer in the air box. If the piston has locating pins for the ring ends you can't really do anything beyond installing the new rings. If there are no locating pins McCulloch recommended 0.005 to 0.012", I try to achieve 0.006-0.008" on those.
Mark
To be honest if other people had originally answered your questions myself or others might have chimed in ,but you got an answer from the most knowledgeable source on that particular saw and there's really no reason to answer it more?
Its like asking "how to build a drag race car ?" And John Force answered your question.
I had a PM10-10 I was working on last week and needed to replace the screen in the oil pick up line. I think it was Vinny that suggested using a tool with a rounded end to gently press the screen into the end of the hose. I was able to make a couple work in the past, but wanted to come up with a more effective way so I made a little jig to hold the line, and a UHMW dowel with a round end to press the screens into place.
It seemed every time I would get close, the screen would suddenly pop into the hose end and be all out of position and out of shape again.
After looking it over for a bit I wondered if I could roll the edges of the pickup back to allow me to place the screen in position. like this...
While it's not easy to roll the edges back, particularly if the hose is oily, this technique does seem to work quite effectively.
Even if your screen has been pushed in to the pick up, you should be able to carefully take it back out and flatten and reshape it adequately to make it work again with a little patience and determination.
Mark
It seemed every time I would get close, the screen would suddenly pop into the hose end and be all out of position and out of shape again.
After looking it over for a bit I wondered if I could roll the edges of the pickup back to allow me to place the screen in position. like this...
While it's not easy to roll the edges back, particularly if the hose is oily, this technique does seem to work quite effectively.
Even if your screen has been pushed in to the pick up, you should be able to carefully take it back out and flatten and reshape it adequately to make it work again with a little patience and determination.
Mark
