The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

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im still after the clutch brake s band of the 1010 if anyone can help
Red Amor 15 Packers Road Huonville Tasmania 7109 0408348232
CHEERS GUYS YEAH

Short cover or a long cover? I have a short cover with a good brake band (if I remember correctly, I will have to double check.)


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If anyone is interested, I'm probably going to be looking to get out of 10 series saws temporarily. I have a nice 6-10, a 2-10 with a yellow top 10-10 tank and SDC carb, a decent black top 10-10 that has spark issues, and a 10-10 parts saw. Not going to look for top dollar, just reasonable prices or will give a deal if they can all leave in the same box.
 
Thanks for all the advice! I figured out what ailed the old 10-10, FYI it is a short cover model, and looks to have had very little use. It ran and started very easy, just couldn’t figure the spitting gas and running rich, until I ran across a similar thread on here, I decided to check and clear both sides of the cylinder(intake AND exhaust). The exhaust side when I pulled off the muffler, was carbonned up almost completely. I am guessing a previous owner ran an extremely rich premix batch through the saw, or the wrong kind of oil alltogether, maybe no iré than a gallon or so. The comps on this saw are 165+, and starts 1 pull hot or cold. In the discovery process I pulled both flywheel and clutch to inspect the seals on both sides, cleaned everything well, reset and cleaned the points, greased up the cam follower, and clutch bearing. Used a pick and de carbonned the exhaust ports, put it all back together, and voila! New saw! This saw is too nice to give to my brother, but I told him I would give it to him, so away it goes. Thanks again gents!
 
I have a McClock Mac 10-10 automatic mode 600002b serial 13-12752 and do not know in which direction to put rings on the outlet or intake or on the sides. The piston does not have guides. Please help me with this problem. Thank you.
 

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Good point Poge. I usually separate them about 90 degrees. Remember to lube the rings and cylinder walls befoer inserting the piston. Hate starting a saw up dry. I use either STP oil treatment or just 2 stroke oil.

Brian

I use whatever oil is handy, I have been using automatic transmission fluid recently, but I have used 90 weight gear oil before and 10w-40 motor oil.


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I like the engines in two times, I'm not a happy chainaw because I live in the block but never know what I'm going to use. I have a house in the country and when I move there I will use them, until then they screw the 4 chainsaw that they own mac335, maccath440, promac800 and mac10-10automatic. With regard to the rings we have unleashed another Pro Mac 800 and we noticed there that the piston does not descend on the inlet to see rings and the intake is through the piston body, I did not understand it. Thanks for the pertinent answers and please excuse me for the English translation of google.
 
levis - The 10 Series McCulloch saws are piston ported and you will not see the piston rings when looking through the intake port, the rings are only visible through the exhaust port on the PM800 and related 10 Series McCulloch saws.

On piston ported saws, the rings are visible through the exhaust port when the piston moves down to open the exhaust:

IMAG1421.jpg

IMAG1420.jpg

On the intake side, the piston skirt closes the intake port except when the piston is near TDC (Top Dead Center) when the skirt moves past the port, allowing atmospheric pressure to push the air/fuel charge into the low pressure in the crankcase. In the photo below, if you look very carefully you can see the bottom of the piston skirt and the connecting rod through the intake port.

IMAG1423.jpg

This You Tube video depicts a piston ported engine although I have never seen one with the exhaust and intake on the same side as they show.



Mark
 
If anyone is interested, I'm probably going to be looking to get out of 10 series saws temporarily. I have a nice 6-10, a 2-10 with a yellow top 10-10 tank and SDC carb, a decent black top 10-10 that has spark issues, and a 10-10 parts saw. Not going to look for top dollar, just reasonable prices or will give a deal if they can all leave in the same box.
I am looking for a clutch cover for one of my 10-10. Long, short, with/without brake. If you'd like to part out your parts saw, I'd gladly take a cover. Let me know. I will cover shipping and a reasonable cost.
 
Hey guys need ideas. My 10 10 a went lean last year cutting firewood. Suddenly wouldnt four stroke at wot and developed eratic idle. I had other saws to use so put it away until now. Comp was a.little down at 110 cold but it still hung in pretty close to my buddies 455 rancher with a fresh filed chain.
So I decided if im pulling it apart looking for air leaks I might as well freshen it up. I have never replaced rings in a non crome lined saw. Would light crosshatch with bottle brush hone and new ring be way to go or other....
 
Here is my $20 thrift store Mac 10-10. I've not tried to fire her up yet but the draw string is a few inches too long and won't reel all the way in.
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Tom - I use a ball hone to break the glaze in a cast iron or steel liner, I like to do this job with the saw in the parts washer and the solvent flushing through the bore.

Josh - remove the three screws from the starter cover and give it a couple extra wraps in the counter-clockwise direction.

Mark
 
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