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Building a Pm 10-10A up from a pile of parts. Starting with with bottom end & piston & jug. How lucky could i be if i reused the bearings but replaced the seals and rings. The bearing doesn't sound bad. any words of advice/guide lines. or is there a 10-10 build i could follow?
I'll hone it after i get rings, measure end gap as noted above a few posts, but i wanna build this one up and here's the chance to do a good job of it.
I did a bit of porting to the exh port, then working some fine emery cloth over it, i could do some more i see some carbon i missed, How can i clean the carbon uin the combustion chamber up near the spark plug, i see some carbon flakes to clean up there, hard to reach.
Thanks in advance.
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Building a Pm 10-10A up from a pile of parts. Starting with with bottom end & piston & jug. How lucky could i be if i reused the bearings but replaced the seals and rings. The bearing doesn't sound bad. any words of advice/guide lines. or is there a 10-10 build i could follow?
I'll hone it after i get rings, measure end gap as noted above a few posts, but i wanna build this one up and here's the chance to do a good job of it.
I did a bit of porting to the exh port, then working some fine emery cloth over it, i could do some more i see some carbon i missed, How can i clean the carbon uin the combustion chamber up near the spark plug, i see some carbon flakes to clean up there, hard to reach.
Thanks in advance.
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I've found Hoppe's number 9 gun powder solvent works well. A bit of rag on the end of a dowel will let you get at the carbon at the top.
 
How can i clean the carbon uin the combustion chamber up near the spark plug, i see some carbon flakes to clean up there, hard to reach.

Berryman's Chem Dip will do the trick if you have the patience and the budget. I also occasionally use a soft bristle wire brush chucked up to an extension in a 3/8's drill. Much faster.

1110181504a_resized.jpg
As for the bearings, I pay more attention to what they feel like than what they sound like. If they're still nice and smooth (and clean) with no play I'd use em.
 
The PTO side bearing is a standard BH108, easy to find. The flywheel side bearings are a different story. There used to be an e-Bay seller that had bearings & seals available but he hasn't had them listed in a while (Marmax Karts & Parts). I have only had to change a few out, fortunately I have a few parts saws to choose from. Don't get carried away with the hone, just polish it up a bit.

I have seals if anyone has trouble locating them locally. The flywheel side may be 1.50" O.D. or 1.375" O.D. so be sure to know which you need.

A gallon of Berryman's will last a good long while but may take paint off a cylinder.

Mark
 
Ok 10 10 gurus I need some help.

I tried pull starting her but the pull cord keeps coming and not winding back quick enough to keep trying. Is there a good way to clean the spring or cord area? This will be my "hey neighbor with a chainsaw" saw so I want her to be a runner. I'm working on a mac 3216 at the same time but the 10 10 is so much better looking.

Besides new plug, fuel line and filter should I just get a new filter too or just use my old one? I tried filling her with store gas in a can 40:1 I think but wouldn't fire up just yet. Are the points easy to repair? I haven't done a compression test yet but will get 1 at harbor freight tomorrow.

Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk
 
Ok 10 10 gurus I need some help.

I tried pull starting her but the pull cord keeps coming and not winding back quick enough to keep trying. Is there a good way to clean the spring or cord area? This will be my "hey neighbor with a chainsaw" saw so I want her to be a runner. I'm working on a mac 3216 at the same time but the 10 10 is so much better looking.

Besides new plug, fuel line and filter should I just get a new filter too or just use my old one? I tried filling her with store gas in a can 40:1 I think but wouldn't fire up just yet. Are the points easy to repair? I haven't done a compression test yet but will get 1 at harbor freight tomorrow.

Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk

The pull start is simple as and rather pleasing to work on (compared to some) just undo the three screws and unwind it and go from there drop the shaft out clean it up and lube it up with whatever is handy (just a lil bit) then if the rope is toast replace it or cut off the dodgy end. Dont let the spring come out of the housing just let it sit in there pop the pully on again find its slot on the spring and wind it up a bit. Once ya pull it apart its very simple Just make sure its all nice n clean and itle be sweet for along time.

Does it have spark? Yellow or nice blue? A new plug if its yellow n gross or ancient i wouldn't touch the points if it had decent spark im younger and never grew up with points so I'll keep my mouth shut for that bit haha.

Is the fuel line bad? If it's not leaking and still flops around and ok then dont worry about it. Pop a wee splash in the plug hole n see if itle go and start pulling fuel and run. If it runs be nice dont ring its tits out let her stretch her legs lube up the bearings Start listening for a lean engine.
 
Is there a difference between pro 10-10a piston and a 10-10a? I’m trying to hunt down a Pro 10-10a piston and looking at the IPL between the two I see the part numbers are different but the pistons look the same? Am I off?
 
Is there a difference between pro 10-10a piston and a 10-10a? I’m trying to hunt down a Pro 10-10a piston and looking at the IPL between the two I see the part numbers are different but the pistons look the same? Am I off?

Pretty sure there the same and was just a badge thing. It's the 10-10S at 57cc that is different. The cylinders changed a bit from points to electronic
 
I hope that’s the case because I was really scratching my head comparing pistons. Would love to get my hands on a cheap super
 
Any tips on safely removing paint from Mac 10-10 surfaces? I heard Airplane Paint Remover would be safe for the magnesium but, I wanted to hear some thoughts from someone who has stripped the paint from a Mac successfully before I try it.
 
Any tips on safely removing paint from Mac 10-10 surfaces? I heard Airplane Paint Remover would be safe for the magnesium but, I wanted to hear some thoughts from someone who has stripped the paint from a Mac successfully before I try it.

Depending on how detailed you're getting with the project, some light sanding and a couple light coats of primer should give you a good base for a nice finish without actually going the stripping route..., or even just a light primer coat could go a long way in blending uneven surface areas for a final finish.
 
Whatever you use will require a clean, grease/oil free surface. I'd just use basic Rust-oleum primer myself for surface blending. A couple light coats should smooth out any irregularities..., maybe a light sanding between coats. They do make a self-etching product.
 
I recently purchased another Mac 10-10 that looks nearly flawless inside and out, and to my knowledge, recently rebuit. I have not cut with it yet but it starts easy, will idle just fine and has a very snappy throttle response. The only problem is, when I turn the saw on its side (clutch side facing the ground), the saw drops in RPM and spits and sputters a little bit. I know that this can be indicative of a bad crank seal but I'm really hoping its not. Is there any other reason why it would do this?
 
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