Discussion in 'Chainsaw Stickies' started by mad murdock, Jun 4, 2012.
Nice saws what's in the back left?
You really have gone the whole 9 yards with those man wow
Super Pro 80
Pro Mac 60
Pro Mac 55
Do you think an old kart motor would make the Mac 15 run better?
My Super Pro 80 I just put a 8 tooth sprocket on and put the roller nose bar on. I also just put a new clutch spring on it. It runs great!
Wow was hoping it was an 82cc. That's really really nice mate and a nice bar too.
I wouldn't have the foggiest clue about the 15 or the cart motor there way above my pay grade when it comes to macs.
Wow those are some awesome looking Macs that's for sure. I'd love to stumble across one of the 82cc models.
Just actively search and you will find 1 post an add up here and other sites. A nice saw heaps of grunt great anti vibe and not bad weight really. Normally much cheaper than a bigger husky or stihl
Thank you all for the nice comments! I really love these saws!
Right now I am working on restoring a 1927 Briggs and Stratton model FH for my dad for his birthday. I found it in one of his barns. I think he used to use it when he was young.
Think I might have posted this 10-10s when I picked it up, but I just swapped on a better bar tonight. Saw is really clean and this new bar makes it really pop. It's a large mount Husky bar. Funny thing is this particular Sandvik bar has 2 different holes for the locating pin. A rearmost one that is elongated. This is handy because I didn't have to flip the adjusting pin like I usually have to. Simply had to grind a groove up to the oil feed hole and it's good to go. I got the bar from a pile of old stock at my local saw shop, but took a pic of the part number in case they are still out there for others.
whats your guys ideas of airbox gasket, the 10-10's i got had this gooey putty, what have you guys had good luck with?
The later models had a gasket made from double sided tape, I have some of the OEM sticky putty that I use.
Got my first 10-10 the other day. It has fuel system issues. Rebuilt the carb, but now it needs a fuel line. It has 150psi. No model number by the carb. I think it's a early model but not sure. I got a fuel line and lower handle on order. Any idea as to what year it is?
'68 ~ '70 (maybe?) according to that block stamp? Hafta look through IPL's for more definitive clues, but the serial prefix (10 in your case) is at least a date range indicator if one is present. The numbers following the prefix aren't necessarily indicating any date information that I'm aware of. Mr. Heimann or others may drop in with a more detailed explanation.
Based on IPL's I have, a 10- serial number would likely have been a 1967 build. Be careful about aftermarket fuel lines, many are poor quality material and will split when installed over the barb on the carburetor (immediately or within a short time). A better option is a good used fuel line, wrap Teflon tape around it if it is a bit loose in the hole in the tank. I have used Tygon and a grommet with success as well if you are not insistent on the OEM look.
Thank you for sharing the info. The fuel line that's on it was broke near the barb. I may look into a grommet and Tygon set up. So far it seems like a great saw, and can see myself wanting more lol. Do you by any chance still have a full wrap available?
Yes, $55.00 + shipping. It will fit your RH start saw without any modifications.
I read somewhere someone was using a 3D printer making the plastic recoil screen for the McCulloch 10-10 chainsaws. I am needing three of these plastic screens if anyone knows where I can find them.
Perk - check your inbox.
Heres a pic of the fuel line setup with the grommet I got from Mark, I just did 1 of 4. Maby someone has input, but i had to drill a 1/2'' hole. I also took off some meat off the nipple on the carb. Took some massaging to get the line from collapsing around the bend as it exited the tank. Next one ill work the bit lower and aim it a little better out of the tank,
bar nuts 8mm x 1.25 not one local saw shop could help me locally,
I like that set up for the fuel line. If the line I ordered is no good, I will go that route.
Got my late grandfather's Mac 10-10A back together last week. First time running it in a few years. New Rings/Piston/Carb Kit and Crank Seals. Brought the compression up from 138 PSI to near 160 PSI Post Rebuild. Sounds mean as ever!!
138 psi isn't that bad,if it was 120 or under then I'd replace the rings & piston,but only if the piston was scored badly.I've got a 10-10 here that I brought back to life about 6 weeks ago & it had 130-135 psi,but that was on a dry cylinder too.I'll bet my saw sat for at least 15-20 yrs.Whoever had the saw couldn't figure out that the plug wire was shorting out where it ran over the cylinder fins.It wasn't easy to figure out,but I was persistent.
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