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I keep forgetting to post here about my 10-10's.Anyway I have the last of my 10-10's "put together" today.I did a compression test on it yesterday & it tested 150 psi & it has a slightly scored piston.I put a set of old points in it along with a condenser & set the air gap on the coil.Once I had spark I gave it a shot of fuel in the carb & it purred to life.Now I've been told that even though it tested at 150 psi I'd have problems with it not wanting to start,it wouldn't idle properly & so on.I'm going to take my chances.I rebuilt the carb earlier today & then I had to make some carb mounting gaskets.I'm going to change out the tank handle & put a ProMac 10-10 tank handle on it so as to have an easy time getting air filters for it.I did one already on another 10-10.I'm waiting on some parts from Bob Johnson to finish up the saw,then I'll put a nice new bar & chain on it & get a pic on here.
Ed
 
You wont have problems, compression is compression. As long as the rings are free to move in the piston and have sufficient tension and the piston isnt so worn that its slapping around in the cylinder it will be fine.
 
If the piston was slapping around in the cylinder I doubt that I'd have 150 psi.This saw has been sitting idle for most likely decades.Now once I get the saw running again & take it out to cut for a day,I wouldn't be surprised if the compression came up even more.Thanks for the vote of confidence Kevin!
Ed
 
You can have good compression and still have piston slap. It happens when the piston skirt to cylinder wall clearance is too great. If bad enough it can actually break the piston skirt.
A few car manufacturers had problems with it when they started using different alloys in pistons.
I still think you will be fine.
 
I swapped out the tank handle on it today & put a ProMac10-10 tank handle on it.The job would've went much easier than it did if the person who took the muffler off the saw wouldn't have bent the living hell out of the bottom shroud.No matter which way I try to bend it back to a "normal" position,it just doesn't want to line up properly.I found a used one for $5,I suppose it wouldn't hurt to get it.
Ed
 
Yet another addition to 'Poge's Home for Wayward 10-10's'. Guy had it sitting in his yard when I went to buy a trailer hitch from him through a FB ad. He took $10 for the hitch and $20 for the saw. Runs, too. Pretty dirty and needs a real bar, but ya just can't have too many spare 10-10's around, now can ya?

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I bought 3 10 series saws yesterday, 6-10 ,10-10a and a ? Model plate missing. I don't think any were ever cleanrd in their life. Included was a very clean beaird Poulan 361 , which I'm currently looking to trade for Mac parts (The Poulan is not yellow so I'm not interested in it).
I 've been using a Sthil fuel line in my Mac's with good results, an old saw shop turned me on to it. Depending on the casting most the 10-10s have no problem with the sthil fuel line sealing.
Btw if you want the poulan let me know I'm looking for clutch covers and various ausundry for my Macs.
 

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I bought 3 10 series saws yesterday, 6-10 ,10-10a and a ? Model plate missing. I don't think any were ever cleanrd in their life. Included was a very clean beaird Poulan 361 , which I'm currently looking to trade for Mac parts (The Poulan is not yellow so I'm not interested in it).
I 've been using a Sthil fuel line in my Mac's with good results, an old saw shop turned me on to it. Depending on the casting most the 10-10s have no problem with the sthil fuel line sealing.
Btw if you want the poulan let me know I'm looking for clutch covers and various ausundry for my Macs.

Which Stihl fuel line are you using?
 
I was reading some of the other forums on the rest of the site and people are obsessed with cutting speed!!!
Most post what they're cutting and then someone says "well thats not a very hardwood" ,so I put up a YouTube video of my [Mac pro 60 ] cutting an 11" black locust post thats been lying around the farm for at least 40 years.
Mac pro 60 ,is the title.
I purchased that saw 3 days ago for 25$.
 
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