It's gonna take a lot to wear out a 10-10.I'm reviving some that are 50 yrs.old.Depending on how much wood you cut & how old you are,those saws may just outlive you.Lol
Ed
Ed
The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread
- Thread starter mad murdock
- Start date
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That is just too cool!
Ed
Ed
Supercharged86
ArboristSite Operative
Hello, Does or did anyone make a plastic replacement fuel cap. The original one looks to be made of bakelite and mine has missing threads. Thanks. Steve
Believe it or not Steve,but a Homelite cap will work.
Ed
Ed
Unfortunately the saws I own have not been in my care for most of their lives and some I've bought it's amazing that they even run, so they are VERY stout!
A little epoxy goes a long way.
Why the heck do I have tiny files? POINTS !!!!!!
Nice job there mate
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Some of us grew up in a time of mostly points ignition. The friction panel on a matchbook cover has cleaned more than a few set of points.
That's how I used to do my Plymouth fury and valiant , getting a match book down beside a slant six was awful! Which also coincided with adjusting the d#@$!m valves.
Thanks , I used to work in a cabinet shop in the wintertime in Pennsylvania, so sanding stuff is kind of relaxing to me, weird right?
Not at all I completely get that
Therapy.
Aaron Rybicki
ArboristSite Operative
I purchased a Pro Mac 10-10 recently off of eBay that was an Estate Sale buy and it was incredibly clean... Just missing a sawdust screen. When I got it I could not believe how untouched it was. Looked liked it was ran like maybe 10 times in it's whole life. Hardly any wear at the bottom - paint still intact everywhere else. Compression was about 153 and spark was fat and blue with a brand new plug. I went to start it and it would seem to have ONE pop every single time I pulled the starter. It would go no further. Eventually after enough pulls, it would start to pour fuel out of the muffler. So I pulled the plug and burned off the unburned fuel with a lighter. Stuck it back in and still - one pop (if that) every pull.
So I freshened it up with a carb kit. I did not replace the metering lever as it was set properly and in working condition. Seals/Diaphram were slightly stiff. As I was installing the carb kit, I took some pics of the P&C and ..... not good. Quite a bit of scoring. You can see the scoring on the piston in the pics I attached. It is the same (maybe a little less) on the cylinder - from what I can see...
So after installing the fresh carb kit, it acted the same exact way. It would pop most pulls and then eventually flood out.
And Yes, I did adjust the H&L jets, starting about 1 1/2 turns out and adjust richer, then leaner from there. Before and after the carb kit.
Also, at a certain point, I cranked the Idle WAY up. I figured this would help it along but had the same results. Popped most pulls and eventually flooded out.
Could it not want to start because of the scoring? Even with the compression it had on the compression tester? Would be a damn crying shame if so. The whole saw is just about flawless on the outside. I'll have to get some pics going..
Worst comes to worst, I can just find another PM1010 powerhead for it. ...I guess all it takes is one person to run it with a dull chain and get fine saw dust in the cylinder... Sucks.
So I freshened it up with a carb kit. I did not replace the metering lever as it was set properly and in working condition. Seals/Diaphram were slightly stiff. As I was installing the carb kit, I took some pics of the P&C and ..... not good. Quite a bit of scoring. You can see the scoring on the piston in the pics I attached. It is the same (maybe a little less) on the cylinder - from what I can see...
So after installing the fresh carb kit, it acted the same exact way. It would pop most pulls and then eventually flood out.
And Yes, I did adjust the H&L jets, starting about 1 1/2 turns out and adjust richer, then leaner from there. Before and after the carb kit.
Also, at a certain point, I cranked the Idle WAY up. I figured this would help it along but had the same results. Popped most pulls and eventually flooded out.
Could it not want to start because of the scoring? Even with the compression it had on the compression tester? Would be a damn crying shame if so. The whole saw is just about flawless on the outside. I'll have to get some pics going..
Worst comes to worst, I can just find another PM1010 powerhead for it. ...I guess all it takes is one person to run it with a dull chain and get fine saw dust in the cylinder... Sucks.
Attachments
Dam man that looks nasty I'm lost how that can pull 150psi unless the cylinder is still ok. I doubt a bit of dust from a dull chain did that I'd bet straight gassed... poor old girl didn't deserve that
Aaron Rybicki
ArboristSite Operative
It was hard at the time to get a cylinder pic. But after I seen that, I wasn't sure how I had such a decent reading on my compression gauge. I had a Mac 10-10A powerhead test at 143 PSI with slightly worn out rings - with a hardly worn (some carbon build up) piston and a clean/smooth cylinder....
You could be right about being straight gassed. It's so unfortunate.
Yeah odd is your gauge ok? On the bright side it's a 10-10 and a complete block will be very easy to find and bolt the nice shiny tank and covers on and hey presto.
Straight gas seems a likely thing how many 10 series saws have lived for literally decades with a nasty air filter and a terrible tune with stale old gas and cheap nasty oil from whatever container that was handy and the dull chain that goes with it all lol.
I'm with Jethro on being straight gassed.If you're willing to spend $100 on a brand new short block for it,one can be had from Bob Johnson.You'd have a brand new saw.
Ed
Ed
Supercharged86
ArboristSite Operative
Hey Ed, thanks. I've got lots of SEZ's if thats the one i need. [emoji16]
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