The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

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Hi Guys,

Just needing some advice please. I purchased this Mac 10-10 ( actually swapped it for a Stihl MS170 ) yesterday but it's missing the top air cleaner cover. I would like to put a period correct air cleaner on it, but since there is numerous options would anyone know which would be the correct one ?

BTW, there is no tag inside the air cleaner box. It has been removed.

Thanks Justin
That ain't a 10-10 mate, look at the decomp. That's a 60+ cc Mac, if I'm not mistaken.
 
Hi Guys,

Just needing some advice please. I purchased this Mac 10-10 ( actually swapped it for a Stihl MS170 ) yesterday but it's missing the top air cleaner cover. I would like to put a period correct air cleaner on it, but since there is numerous options would anyone know which would be the correct one ?

BTW, there is no tag inside the air cleaner box. It has been removed.

Thanks Justin
That ain't a 10-10 mate, look at the decomp. That's a 60+ cc Mac, if I'm not mistaken.
Yup, I suspect a 7-10 there. 70cc, nice find. Rough looking but I bet it'll run just fine!!

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 
Hi Guys,

Just needing some advice please. I purchased this Mac 10-10 ( actually swapped it for a Stihl MS170 ) yesterday but it's missing the top air cleaner cover. I would like to put a period correct air cleaner on it, but since there is numerous options would anyone know which would be the correct one ?

BTW, there is no tag inside the air cleaner box. It has been removed.

Thanks Justin
There are only really 3 covers for the non anti vibe 10 series that might be optional for a saw of that vintage , dome, paper dome , and flat .
That saw takes the flat or the most available and recent model. Air cleaners are available on Amazon.
There are many colors a stickers that were made for the many different models of saws but if it takes the flat filter it fits your saw.
First I would rebuild the carburetor and clean the muffler before any running to avoid damaging it.
 
Is there any way of me confirming that it might be a 7-10 or a differnet model of McCulloch saw ?
Remove the muffler and measure the cylinder bore with a straw (or something similar) by inserting it through the exhaust port and against the opposite side of the cylinder. Then rotate the crank to bring the piston up against the straw to pinch it (or at least to create a mark) and measure. 1.99" will indicate a 70cc saw. 1.875" - 60cc. 1.80" - 57cc.

Not likely a 57cc saw as those of the general era (PM55 and PM555) had chain brakes and an operator presence lever. The lack of chain brake and earlier style sprocket cover lean toward a PM60 or a mid-era 7-10.
 
I had been scouring the net for a clutch cover for my 10-10 that had intact corners to hold dogs. Couldn't find any.
Went to Appalachia last weekend. Visiting an old friend. Told him about my new hobby collecting old chainsaws and wondered if there were any stores anywhere I might look. Pawn shops, junk shops, etc. He gave me a few leads and said he would make some phone calls. The next afternoon he came up to my cabin with FIVE saws. All gifts from locals for the Minnesota Kid. I am telling you, these fellas from back in the hollers are true gems. Would give you shirt off their back. (Probably didnt hurt that we had brought a few gifts for them). Anyhow- one of the saws- A Mac 10-10 of the same exact era. Clutch cover in great shape. With dogs. Brought it home and it swapped right onto the one I had. But now- I get it, I see how you guys get started. Now I am gonna have to make this one a runner too! One rough, one as close to mint as possible.
In this picture I have already swapped clutch cover. Will also get gas cap in better condition.
7F295C89-7966-4803-ADE1-BF15466FC284.jpeg
 
That sounds like a good idea. I will try and measure it during the week and get back to everyone.

Cheers
Justin
I would pull the carb and not the muffler unless you plan on doing a full tear down. either way you can get the measurements you need to check the bore and stroke. 2" stroke x 1.375 = 70.5cc Mc 7-10A...... 1.875 x 1.375 = 62 cc Pro Mac 60. From the looks of it, you may need a fuel line as well. Flat top air housing and five sided filter.
 
I had been scouring the net for a clutch cover for my 10-10 that had intact corners to hold dogs. Couldn't find any.
Went to Appalachia last weekend. Visiting an old friend. Told him about my new hobby collecting old chainsaws and wondered if there were any stores anywhere I might look. Pawn shops, junk shops, etc. He gave me a few leads and said he would make some phone calls. The next afternoon he came up to my cabin with FIVE saws. All gifts from locals for the Minnesota Kid. I am telling you, these fellas from back in the hollers are true gems. Would give you shirt off their back. (Probably didnt hurt that we had brought a few gifts for them). Anyhow- one of the saws- A Mac 10-10 of the same exact era. Clutch cover in great shape. With dogs. Brought it home and it swapped right onto the one I had. But now- I get it, I see how you guys get started. Now I am gonna have to make this one a runner too! One rough, one as close to mint as possible.
In this picture I have already swapped clutch cover. Will also get gas cap in better condition.
View attachment 892676
One for show, one for go!
 
Someone asked about clutch covers and chain brakes on the SP80 model via PM, I thought I would share the response here as well since the information applies to many of the 10 Series saws.

The SP80 saws did not have a chain brake. Early SP81 saws were also without the brake. In 1974/75 McCulloch was the first manufacturer to equip all saws with a chain brake so the later production SP81 and all subsequent models (SP81E, PM850, PM805, PM800, DE80, PM8200) were equipped with a chain brake. The SP saws utilized the shorter clutch cover, the PM saw had a longer clutch cover that also covered the muffler. The covers are fully interchangeable on all 10 Series saws except that the PM805/800/DE80/PM8200 had an oversize muffler so the clutch cover has extra clearance to provide room for the upright screen. The later style clutch cover with the bump out can work on older saws but the earlier PM type long covers will not clear the muffler on the later saws.

Earliest 10 Series saws were RH start with the starter in the clutch cover, no brake. I think the starter would interfere with the full wrap handle bar on the early SP80/81 models.

IMG_3814 (640x480).jpg


Later 10 Series saws had a LH starter and but kept the profile of the clutch cover. These will work with a full wrap handle without modification on non anti-vibe saws.

20170707_200255.jpg


The next generation of short clutch covers had a different profile that will not clear the full wrap handle bars on non anti-vibe saws. As noted, early ones did not have a chain brake.

20170707_193212.jpg


IMG_0893.jpg


The early SP80/81 full wrap bars were narrower and will not clear the chain brake handle on later saws. If you put a brake with the narrow full wrap you must loosen the top screw in the wrap handle to get the clutch cover off.

DSC07047.JPG


The later SP81/81E full wrap handle bars were wider to accommodate the chain brake handle.

DSCN5750.JPG


Starting with the PM700 and PM850 models, the clutch cover was lengthened to cover the muffler. These need only minor modifications to clear the full wrap handles on the non anti-vibe saws.

20200702_105536.jpg


The PM805 and later models have a "bump out" in the clutch/muffler cover to clear the large upright screen in the exhaust.

IMG_1263.JPG


DSC01018.JPG


Due to the different mounting for the front (wrap) handles they will always clear the full wrap bars on the bottom.

DSC02976.JPG


Mark
 
I have located some suitable grommets and what I believe is the same stuff as the "Echo" fuel line, Buna N liner and PVC sheath.

View attachment 878343

View attachment 878344

View attachment 878345

It does seem to resist kinking better than Tygon and should make the corner to the nipple on the carburetor without any problems.

View attachment 878346

Seems like I should be set for a while.

View attachment 878347

Mark
Why not use the fuel line from eBay? Does it not stand up to e10 fuels?Mcculloch Chainsaw Gas Fuel Line & Filter Kit Pro Mac.jpg
 
I have heard that the Stens lines are O.K. but others are so stiff that the ends split just slipping them over the nipple on the carburetor. If I don't have a good OEM line I can reuse I feel more secure with the Tygon or Buna N material. Since 1twomachine no longer sells the "No Leak" kits on eBay I have adopted the grommet approach.

20201209_125936.jpg

20201218_093948.jpg

Mark
 
1127-358-7703 -- $10.99 at your friendly Stihl dealer for the latest OEM version. I'd stay away from aftermarket for the same reason as staying away from the Mac knock-offs.
The part that passes through the bulkhead between the tank and the airbox looks so big on the Stihl part. The original Mac 10-10 fuel line has a diameter of 7/16" for the bulkhead hole. What fuel filter do you suggest for the Stihl fuel line?
OEM STIHL Fuel Line big.jpg
 
The part that passes through the bulkhead between the tank and the airbox looks so big on the Stihl part. The original Mac 10-10 fuel line has a diameter of 7/16" for the bulkhead hole. What fuel filter do you suggest for the Stihl fuel line?
View attachment 896500
The felt with the metal barb holds it down better.
 

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