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Not really. I just typed a fairly descriptive response only to get a "security error" that required reloading the page which in turn deleted everything I just typed. Probably best for the group anyway. LOL

In a nutshell, strong saw and very fun to run. Its main demon has been slain. Not totally happy with the carb response to adjustments, though. I've yet to dive into it or replace it. Got frustrated enough on its maiden voyage with some fairly formidable ash to just set it aside in favor of my 371xp (one of my favorite saws) to finish up. Been awaiting further attention since and the issue needs squared away before I can consider the overall project "done" or the saw dependable enough for any serious cutting duty. I'll get back to it once my main firewood activity is wrapped up for the season, which it nearly is.
 
Not really. I just typed a fairly descriptive response only to get a "security error" that required reloading the page which in turn deleted everything I just typed. Probably best for the group anyway. LOL

In a nutshell, strong saw and very fun to run. Its main demon has been slain. Not totally happy with the carb response to adjustments, though. I've yet to dive into it or replace it. Got frustrated enough on its maiden voyage with some fairly formidable ash to just set it aside in favor of my 371xp (one of my favorite saws) to finish up. Been awaiting further attention since and the issue needs squared away before I can consider the overall project "done" or the saw dependable enough for any serious cutting duty. I'll get back to it once my main firewood activity is wrapped up for the season, which it nearly is.

Bugger that's frustrating. Well glad to its only a carb away from glory was a long saga that saw and real happy to see Kevin wound up with a runner 7-10 in the end also.

Would love to have a turn with a 371 or variation of
 
I went through this Pro 10-10 Automatic hoping to have another saw to put up for sale. Checking it over I found the crankcase/PTO seal were leaking so I took it all the way down. While it had 140 PSI the ring end gap was over 0.020" so I put new rings in it along with new seals. The fuel tank needed sand blasting to get rid of the flaking paint so I put it together with a cork gasket and gave it the Red Kote treatment. I will let the tank cure for another day or two then see if it was worth the effort. It came to me with a long PM style clutch cover but I was able to put a short one with a brake together from pieces I had on hand. I hope it ends up being worth the effort.

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Mark
 
I picked up this 10-10 of e-Bay from the infamous ladybug a couple of weeks ago (see post 1,476).

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I went to work on it today, someone requested to see inside the starter housing. That is a much larger diameter starter pulley and in this case, unfortunately, is broken. I could probably fashion a part and weld it in since the starter clutch is steel with the aluminum cast around it...but this one will just end up on display in the museum so I will probably forgo the effort.

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I will post some additional photos as the project continues. This one is manual oiler only with three screws holding the check valve in place of the automatic oil pump and no screw through the oil tank to secure the front of the fuel tank. Other than that, it seems quite like other 10 Series saws I've worked on.

Mark
 
I picked up this 10-10 of e-Bay from the infamous ladybug a couple of weeks ago (see post 1,476).

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I went to work on it today, someone requested to see inside the starter housing. That is a much larger diameter starter pulley and in this case, unfortunately, is broken. I could probably fashion a part and weld it in since the starter clutch is steel with the aluminum cast around it...but this one will just end up on display in the museum so I will probably forgo the effort.

View attachment 854253

View attachment 854254

I will post some additional photos as the project continues. This one is manual oiler only with three screws holding the check valve in place of the automatic oil pump and no screw through the oil tank to secure the front of the fuel tank. Other than that, it seems quite like other 10 Series saws I've worked on.

Mark
I have purchased 2 saws from that seller. Imo opinion the price was decent and I ended up with 2 running 70cc Macs so no complaints.
I would love to know where all the saws are coming from. It seems there are different ones listed all the time, all in similar condition.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 
Since the compression was pretty low I decided to just clean it up and put it on display rather than going to all the trouble to make it a runner. It had a brand new 3/8-7 spur drum but I swapped it out for a .354 so I could keep it more original. I found a well used 16" hardnose bar and one of the NOS .354/.050 chains to finish it off.

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I did notice a couple of additional differences from the run of the mill 10-10 saws starting with the fuel tank, there is no spacer under the screw but the bosses are both longer so it looks like they probably bottom out when the screw is tightened.

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Also, there is a pilot on the clutch cover and a corresponding counter bore in the housing to locate the flywheel cover.

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Now I have to rearrange a few things in the museum to get this one up among the other 10-10 models.

Mark
 

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Just picked up this sp60 tonight, how much of an orphan are they parts wise? Are pistons or rings hard to find ?
 

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New arrivals today.

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I read somewhere that this style flywheel cover was more common on saws shipped to Japan.

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Mark

There are few on another collector site that are located in Europe.

Mine has a pancake muffler with reed and does have the fourth fan housing screw at the front. Nothing to indicate where it was made.


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I am still cleaning up saws in preparation for moving them to the new museum and workshop building and decided to tackle this 10-10. I thought it would be nice to have the full wrap handle bars on display and I already have a RH start set up over there. When I took it apart it was dirty, the fuel tank was leaking, the fuel cap was leaking, and it died while I was trying to tune it and lost spark. Upon disassembly I found it had been fit with a chip, and that the wire had come loose. I decided to switch it back to points.

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The short brake clutch cover had a few deficiencies already so I didn't mind modifying it to fit the full wrap bar.

Mark
 
Hi Guys,

I got this Pro Mac 10-10S a few weeks back and I am going right through as I normally do with any saw I get. There are a few questions I would like to ask the McCulloch enthusiasts.

1. Does anyone make or can show me where to get a new McCulloch logo's for the top of the air cleaner lid ?
2. I would like to replace the round plastic mesh guard that goes over and protectes the flywheel can you still get them anywhere ?
3. The oiler button has been broken off, how big a job is that to replace and can I still get that green "push" button ?

The saw was sitting for some time as you can see by the photos, so long infact that the old fuel had started to eat the paint on the inside of the fuel tank. So I have now sand blasted the tank and now it is spotless.

If anyoner has any other pointers I am all ears.

Cheers

Justin
 

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Hi Guys,

I got this Pro Mac 10-10S a few weeks back and I am going right through as I normally do with any saw I get. There are a few questions I would like to ask the McCulloch enthusiasts.

1. Does anyone make or can show me where to get a new McCulloch logo's for the top of the air cleaner lid ?
2. I would like to replace the round plastic mesh guard that goes over and protectes the flywheel can you still get them anywhere ?
3. The oiler button has been broken off, how big a job is that to replace and can I still get that green "push" button ?

The saw was sitting for some time as you can see by the photos, so long infact that the old fuel had started to eat the paint on the inside of the fuel tank. So I have now sand blasted the tank and now it is spotless.

If anyoner has any other pointers I am all ears.

Cheers

Justin

Hey man cool saw.

Decals maybe on ebay but I've never actually looked for 10-10S decals.

There is a place called sugar creek supply that possibly can make some.

Member Heimannm has a 3d printed chip screen for the starter that are very good. He's the post before you flick him a PM.

I looked at getting Decals for a poulan saw and basically worked out the same cost from a local signs n graphics shop so will go that way instead. Just because of shipping down under this far perhaps better on the early stop in aus.

How bad is your chip screen? I repair mine with hot glue and seem to hold up well. I even use the good or semi good sections from other busted ones and make a good 1 up.

Probably ebay for the oiler button too or a member may have a spare you could try a want to buy ad or....

Make 1 :) a chunk of nylon or steel or alloy that rock you guys call wood on your side of the ditch :) a good bit of hardwood would probably work good as.

Mark H may have 1 when you get a chip screen off him too.

Enjoy the saw got any other yellow saws?
 
1. Does anyone make or can show me where to get a new McCulloch logo's for the top of the air cleaner lid ?
Sugar Creek Supply (Joe Salva) is the usual answer. https://www.sugarcreeksupply.net/ He doesn't offer much in the 10 series Macs and his one-offs take months if you're lucky enough to even reach him and convince him to do one for you..., and that's if you live next door. You'd definitely have a better chance with someone local who does custom vinyl cutting.

I see Jethro mentioned Mark for the chip guard. Hard core and highly recommended unless you're hell bent on originality.

A little patience and searching should get you an oiler button. You shouldn't need to replace the whole rod, but it may be the faster route to go.

Nice score, btw. Good luck with it.
 
The green oiler button is the bane of my existence! Just kidding but I always seem to break them.
There is a tiny roll pin next to the shaft hole it sits in , knock the pin out and the broken shaft will pop out. The plastic button is attached to the metal push rod that actuats the manual oiler, the metal rod has a sort of zigzag bend in it ti fit around the tank ,you can just pull the old but off and push a new one on ,re install the roll pin while depressing the button halfway.
Ebay is the only place I see them.
 
I probably have some green buttons on oiler rods in the attic at the garage. Sawdust screens? I have a bunch printed up. Not sure how expensive shipping is to Australia these days but I am sure it is breathtaking.

The early version of the printed screens had round holes. These were changed to triangles to make a better print quality.

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Mark
 

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