The verdict is in concerning my powwermatch bar!

[ChoppyChoppy]

The chain is sharpened weird, it came like that?
The cutters have an odd hook to them and several don't look very sharp.

 

[mrpotatohead]

The glare is making them look dull, they are sharp. The odd hook, I set my file too deep, or my file guide slipped while I was sharpening, no big issue, that can be corrected easily, and not the first it has happened...

 

[lfnh]

Looks like quite a few cutters have lost their corners (and top edge). Probly from contacting grit in the wood.
Doesn't take much to lose the corner, and kill the cutters slicing.
Video reference 1.50, 2.57-3.00, 3.10-3.11, 3.14-3,26

Helpful to see closeups of the drivers and tie strap (sides and bottoms).

 

[lfnh]

quickest I could find in archive that might help in pics (about middle)
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...-wrong-with-my-chain-sharpening.205916/page-2

 

[mrpotatohead]

The chain cuts fine, and is sharp. Perfect? By no means, but very useable. The biggest part in question here is the guide bar. I am not doubting your observation, do not get me wrong.

The amount of wear on the guide bar is too much. I just done a job today for a guy involving an oak with a lot of rot and bug dust. Far more than the pine I cut with that Powermatch bar. For this job I used a good 'ole Carlton chain, again, along with a Woodland Pro bar, (whoever makes those things,) and never had to touch the chain with a file, and the bar has no where near the first sign of grooves forming in the bar. I also did a lot more cutting seeing that I bucked and split into firewood too.

And as a side note, me and a friend of mine who cuts and sells firewood have been testing these Woodland Pro bars. And in spite of the fact they came in a pack labelled "made in Taiwan," they have been exceptional for the money. I think they are a laminate bar, but so long as the hold up I really don't care.

 

[Andyshine77]

The chain cuts fine, and is sharp. Perfect? By no means, but very useable. The biggest part in question here is the guide bar. I am not doubting your observation, do not get me wrong.

The amount of wear on the guide bar is too much. I just done a job today for a guy involving an oak with a lot of rot and bug dust. Far more than the pine I cut with that Powermatch bar. For this job I used a good 'ole Carlton chain, again, along with a Woodland Pro bar, (whoever makes those things,) and never had to touch the chain with a file, and the bar has no where near the first sign of grooves forming in the bar. I also did a lot more cutting seeing that I bucked and split into firewood too.

And as a side note, me and a friend of mine who cuts and sells firewood have been testing these Woodland Pro bars. And in spite of the fact they came in a pack labelled "made in Taiwan," they have been exceptional for the money. I think they are a laminate bar, but so long as the hold up I really don't care.

I would like to see the Oregon bar with that chain mounted on the saw with the side cover off. That will give us an idea how the chain was ramping back on the bar. The tail of that bar may not be matching up correctly, that may be one of the issues.

The other issue? Well from the video that mostly made me dizzy, that chain has teeth that are totally rocked out and the top plate angles are way less than 25° No way do I see that chain cutting well.

Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk

 

[Bwildered]

Here you go fellas, a closer look at the chain. The light kept messing with my camera for some reason, and after recording I realized it. The glare was terrible...

Harley, light the dog another smoke!

At 3:30 you say that cutter is sharp, it isn't, the point is gone on it, chisel chain has to have perfect points on the teeth other wise they will not cut well & if they are gone on one side then they won't cut straight, you really didn't show many teeth at all, just a lot of nothing, put the bar in a vice & go around every tooth on each side with your cam, the tooth in question has had some impact damage because the point is gone. Dirty or rotten logs can be full of abrasive sands that ants have dragged into them & can dull a chain in seconds sometimes.
Thanski

 

[CR888]

But, but it was the best chain that had crossed his desk. The video made me dizzy too & as long as it was it did not properly show the chain other than the fact most cutters were blunt and uneven top plate angles. I wanted to see the bottom of the drive links for peening but it was impossible to really see anything. A good pic without commentary would be better.

 

[Little Al]

Re the video in post#60 I don' t know if the "twitching about" had any detrimental effect on the film but from what I could see of the film the cutters appear to be at odds with each other re the angles on the cutting & trailing edges some appear rocked & other issues as in hooked cutters & odd height rakers if this is indeed fact & not my brain fade/eyesight then to have a guy in the trade tell you it's the best chain to come over his desk ( my opinion he's giving you a good amount of BS) did he mount & use the chain to cut wood ? I'm sorry to say if I supplied a similar looking chain to one of our (professional) fallers it would end up wrapped around my neck in short order I fear you have been fobbed ofF re the chain in regard to it's cutting ability & would require some work to get it to premier div cutting ability or on the other hand it could be my decrepit eyesight

 

[HarleyT]

Yeah, hard to see in the movie format. A few good pics would be better. And I think having all of the cutters the same is important as well, as well as a sharp/clean edge. In my philosophy, if you can "see the edge/point", it is dull.

 

[drumbum]

The op should remove some paint from the bar to expose the heat treating.

 

[mrpotatohead]

Here you go guys! The first three are my Oregon, the next two is of a brand new unused Carlton for reference sake, then the last two both, the Oregon has the indicator line on top of the link. Oregon is filed to 25 degrees, like the factory says, and the Carlton is still untouched at 30 degrees...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sHsqjHSTk5aDyho82

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cUfEYTAjlgP4qBog1

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qYFd1IOm3NSiYpA23

https://photos.app.goo.gl/7MuHqTs6kqEycRZi2

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BZoG3q8lHdhFAuTA3

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qpVuYFVyttQrrlIG2

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yeSmj8WICTVc3AS52

 

[mrpotatohead]

The op should remove some paint from the bar to expose the heat treating.

You got it buddy!

Doesn't look bad though I could not get a good shot of the color with some minor bluing. But I can assuredly tell you, this bar is soft! I dress my bars with a thick flat file, I lay them both on my metal work bench and gently take out any grooves and it squares the rails to the sides of the bar too. And this thing files down very, very, easy, easier than any other bar I have straightened. Most have been about the same, until now. They must have started with bad steel stock, not enough carbon in it maybe?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/G0CkKXyZQfSmgrSq1

 

[mrpotatohead]

But, but it was the best chain that had crossed his desk. The video made me dizzy too & as long as it was it did not properly show the chain other than the fact most cutters were blunt and uneven top plate angles. I wanted to see the bottom of the drive links for peening but it was impossible to really see anything. A good pic without commentary would be better.

There's you some pics above. And if I were you, I would either E-mail or call Glenn at Blount before continuing with anymore sarcasm. All I have to do is simply play the voicemail he sent me and you'll be eating crow.

And again, I have no beef with Glenn, and appreciate his time in this matter.

 

[lfnh]

pictures aren't showing on this screen. Maybe the links can be checked or reposted. thanks

Here you go guys! The first three are my Oregon, the next two is of a brand new unused Carlton for reference sake, then the last two both, the Oregon has the indicator line on top of the link. Oregon is filed to 25 degrees, like the factory says, and the Carlton is still untouched at 30 degrees...

 

[mrpotatohead]

pictures aren't showing on this screen. Maybe the links can be checked or reposted. thanks

Checked them on my tablet and PC, the pictures are coming right up on the forum page.

 

[mrpotatohead]

OK, just figured it out, I posted them from my Google account and you have to be logged in to my account to see them. Give me a few minutes and they will be public...

 

[Westboastfaller]

People with more knowledge than you want to 'solve the riddle'. People with more/different knowledge than me, if it makes you feel any better.
You are going to get a very wide range of expertise. I have my place, my wheelhouse I operate in.
You are going to need to be a little humble here. It seems like you are doing fine this time around. You certainly have things to learn if you want too. We want to look at every possibility.
If you want to deflect the attention back to the bar wearing 'too quick' and throw your hands in the air then label the rest as irrelevancy and "leave it for us to argue" then that's an unfairness to yourself and 'the product'. You posted it on YouTube and here so the burden of proof is on you so don't get caught up in people not being on board with all your knowledge skills and tools to be tops, not at the beginning and less so now as you have shown us more as well said your guide goes out?
I may be a little more naive than most but I mainly do agree based on the time length and the ridge. The bars are to be much harder than the chain. From what little I saw of the
bottom edge of the outside ties staps.
the chain looked immaculate? I can't open the new pics.
Absolutely leave it ALL out here and by all means then leave us to 'argue' about it. Nobody that way can say something unjust and get away with any BS statements. This is based on how you handled some of the earlier resistance.

We know a builder that came on here from my area that had 1,100 ported saws under his belt but when he started his own shop in 2011 & advertised on here for a little extra security I assume. It didn't start out so well. When he proved himself then his customers were in question with their 'before & after' videos by some. Same when I came on. People still tried me. I'm pretty sure if you put your trees end to end, they wouldn't wrap around the planet twice.


I believe woodland pro is Bailey's own line if I'm not mistaken.

So you used the other bar and chain yesterday. So that's good information. I was thinking on the same lines as Andy from the beginning. I was wondering if the bar was sitting completely flat. Its easy to overlook and it still could be possibility.

Some of my other initial thoughts were an 'egged' shaped sprocket or badly worn drum or crank 'end play'.

Now after watching again you are catching your fingers nail on a top ridge and it's not mushroomed over then? So it is infact a wear pattern then? I do now recall having something similar maybe 4 yrs ago that struck me as odd. I'm sure it was a new bar of mine I remember looking at it with my then saw builder. Perhaps on one of my slashing saws that I may have traded off to him for specialty work.
Who knows with me? It's easier figuring out your problems.
In my case it could have been something under the bar, to bent/cracked bar at the base, bent driver, dusting out one side and having it forced straight by the dogs a few times.
Broken adapter front stud falling in the oil tank and running it. Who knows?
I break everything except my word & my balls.

 

[mrpotatohead]

I have no problem with criticism that is rightly done so. But those who begin to insinuate that I am fabricating or shading the truth to try and prove a point, I will buck that. I can however assure anyone here, there has been absolutely no impact to the chain or bar. Every time I have hit something hard with a chain, it has left scratches leading down in either the top or side of the cutter, and there is none in this chain. If I state some evidence, and it doesn't equal someone's conclusion, then that should say something about their conclusion, not the evidence provided by me. I have no reason to fabricate anything, it does me no good at all, or anyone else.

There is no way this bar should have wore that fast, I have cut too many rotted trees over the years to believe otherwise. I made only a couple cuts in the rotted section with this thing, and it was done. I also filed the grooves out of the bar a few minutes ago with a hand file, and that bar is the softest I ever filed.

Now there has been those who do not agree with the above, whether it be all or some, and that is fine and everyone is welcome to chime in. But I did not make anything up, and I posted this as an informative thread and open for discussion.

Thanks for your involvement in this thread, and we'll be talking to ya!

 

[Andyshine77]

Why do you keep mentioning impact? most chains dull from abrasive material in the wood/bark, ground. I think this is where you're getting confused. You can dull a chain instantly if the chain comes into contact with abrasive material, how long you've been running has no relevance to how sharp the chain is, you don't have to hit a ten penny nail or a brick wall to dull a chain.

First the bar doesn't look great, but it's not that bad, plus it looks like it was ran with a suspect chain, and we still have no clear pics of the chain, bar or sprocket. With the little info we do have, it strongly suggests the bar itself is not the single factor.