Tillotson HL Carb Rebuild w/pics

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I run a Tillotson HL314G on my Open Modified Honda GX-200 Kart engine. It's got the .890 Venturi, and 1.000" throttle bore. Great carbs, great for power!

I have to rebuild about every 5 running hours however, dont know why, we just have to rebuild them more often on 4 strokes...the metering dipahragm becomes very stretched.

The only thing Im not sure about on your rebuild is why you arent using the new style captivated needle with the new style captivated metering level? They were in unison, great results doing it that way. I tried your way on accident the first time I rebuilt mine, and it wouldnt tune, even with the pop-off set at 10lbs, it wouldnt tune..

Also, why arent you setting your pop-off? Correct pop-off is the key to a tilly Being off by just a couple pounds can make it not run properly..lean out at high demands, flood at idle, etc.

If you ever want a good price on some stock kits, apskarting has a full array of all Tillotson HL and HG carb kits, from shutters, to kits, to pump bodys, carb bodys, inlets, screens (brass and SS). If you ever want to dabble in hopping one up...ecdistributing makes an array of trick parts for them, from a custom diaphragm that reacts faster, high flow needle and seat, trick pump skins, you name it! Also, if you ever want to talk to the Tillotson master, they have a forum where you can talk to E.C Birt himself.

Ive got a new Tilly on its way Im going to try out, I think it's a HL-388, could be an HL304WX..guy wasnt sure which he sent.

Ya know... about the lever... I never thought about it. This is always the way I had done it and it always worked for me.

I'm not sure what you mean by "pop-off"... Could ya explain that one a little more to me. I'm interested to know... The term "pop-off" is something I have never heard for a saw carb... so it must be a cart thing... or I have just not heard it before...

Hook us up mang! :)

Gary
 
Ya know... about the lever... I never thought about it. This is always the way I had done it and it always worked for me.

I'm not sure what you mean by "pop-off"... Could ya explain that one a little more to me. I'm interested to know... The term "pop-off" is something I have never heard for a saw carb... so it must be a cart thing... or I have just not heard it before...

Hook us up mang! :)

Gary

Gary- 'pop-off' is the pressure it takes for the metering diaphragm to actuate the inlet needle lever and open the inlet needle. How you 'set' the pop-off pressure is by using a different rate spring that goes under the lever itself.

Walbro kits in the late '70's and '80's had several weights of springs in the kits.
 
Well... i just learned something new... Thanks Jacob! :)

Yeah, there were no extra springs in the kit I got from Andy. Since I haven't really been into rebuilding saw carbs until the last 10 years or so... prolly why i never heard the term.

Thanks mang!

Gary
 
The HL series covers a very broad range of carbs, some jetted/drilled for gas, some for alcohol, throttle bore size and Venturi size and shape varies greatly, as well as the throttle hook up, some have choke, some have no choke and no way to have a choke...

If you can give me some idea of about what should be on it....Mike Acres site just says "McCulloch" for carburetor.

Also, what part of NW florida are you in?


I have heard that a HL63 and HL19 will work, and not sure what others will work as well.

I am located in the Panama City area.
 
Gary- 'pop-off' is the pressure it takes for the metering diaphragm to actuate the inlet needle lever and open the inlet needle. How you 'set' the pop-off pressure is by using a different rate spring that goes under the lever itself.

Walbro kits in the late '70's and '80's had several weights of springs in the kits.

Ya. Another way is to bend the tang on the metering arm, which in turn would have the effect of pre-loading the spring, and chainging spring rate.

I think of it this way...

The pop-off can make the saw super rich or super lean, you can play with pop-off and get it close....

Imagine pop-off like this.,

Take a yard stick, 1" is super rich, 36" is super lean.

You can set your pop-off to say, 12lbs, which may put your air/fuel mixture around 23" on the yard stick.

Your needles will only give you 3" of adjustment in either direction before they become un-effective in holding a tune.

Your goal is say...18" on the yardstick, dead center. You cannot tune the carb as it sits to run properly, you can get it darn close, but it will never be correct.

Likewise, you can set pop-off too low, and it will flood as soon as you pull the rope, and will only run with the needle cracked off their seats.

These are my findings...pop-off is very important in a diaphragm carb, be it a Zama, Tilly, Walbro, TK, whatever.

Here is a thread made by ther Wizard of Carbs himself, E.C. Birt, read it 3 times, and after a while it all starts to make sense, this guy can build and tune carbs in his sleep. His words are absolutely invaluable.

He is like the Smokey Yunick of Carbs...haha
 
I have heard that a HL63 and HL19 will work, and not sure what others will work as well.

I am located in the Panama City area.

How about an HL-191?

Think one of those would bolt up? I might be able to dig one of them up, it's been a while since I saw it.
 
I've looked at a couple of these carb rebuild threads, and a couple of You Tube videos recently. Very helpful. Thank you.

It's interesting that they all stress 'be careful ! do not lose the spring under the needle arm !'.

I am just curious why they don't include these springs in the re-build kits if they are so easy to lose in the rebuild?

Philbert
 
Awesome tutorial Gary! I look forward to you doing another some day.

I need to spread some love around before I give you any more, though.....if ya know what I mean. :laugh:
Definitely deserve some rep for that there.
 
Hl-46b

Does anyone know what kit to use on a Tillotson HL-46B carburetor?

Why don't the kits come with the inlet screen?... mine is degraded beyond repair
 
Gary I just finished my zip carb rebuild last night do you know the high low settings? I started at one turn out each and way rich i'm at a 1/2 turn way better but want to be sure since the saw is new to me and it's the first I ran it.
 
Gotta post a quick update... The carb kit I used for this rebuild was the RK-113... like I said in the rebuild, I believe this was an "Improved" design from the standard ol' RK-88 kits.

Anyways... I got a couple of RK-88 kits (from site sponsor Edge and Engine), and rebuilt an HL earlier this evening, and I have to say that I like the "Old style" needle and seat assemply in the RK-88's over the RK-113's. I will be tearing the carb back out of the Zip to put the "Old Style" needle and seat in.

Just thought you guys would want to know. Nothing in the rebuild really changes... Just remember to use the proper gaskets with the seats. Just a different opinion on the different kits.

Gary
 
Gary I just finished my zip carb rebuild last night do you know the high low settings? I started at one turn out each and way rich i'm at a 1/2 turn way better but want to be sure since the saw is new to me and it's the first I ran it.

William... I apologize for not seeing this earlier... :)

Anyways... as per the HL service manual, the H screw should be out 1 1/4 turn, and the L screw should be out 3/4 of a turn.

Here is the link to the webpage for the service manuals straight from Tillotson's website: Tillotson Service Manuals

Right click on the HL "US" download and save it to your computer. It is in MS Word format.

Gary
 
Hey Gary. Would you happen to know the initial settings for a HS Tillotson? My computer does not care much for Tillotson's web site. I keep getting a message that it is unable to load the graphics conversion filter. Thanks again for a great tutorial.

Vince
 
William... I apologize for not seeing this earlier... :)

Anyways... as per the HL service manual, the H screw should be out 1 1/4 turn, and the L screw should be out 3/4 of a turn.

Here is the link to the webpage for the service manuals straight from Tillotson's website: Tillotson Service Manuals

Right click on the HL "US" download and save it to your computer. It is in MS Word format.

Gary

Thanks Gary
 

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