Time for a new chain?

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Mustang71

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So I've been cutting for 7 years now and this is a newbie question. My recent ash tree issues have had me cutting a ton. I hand file all my chains and grind the guides down but the other day half way through an ash tree my stihl was just kind of gliding on the wood. I thought the guides were to tall so I ground them down and not much of a difference. If I lean on the saw it chips but I dont want to do that. The chain is filed every time I clean it after use so it's been filed a lot but still looks good. This isn't the only saw doing this same thing. When is it time for a new chain? Like a real one, a stihl not some box store soft saftey one. My little green poulan runs box store chains and has seen a lot of file and tree work and currently chips better than the stihl yellow one.
 
Now sounds good but any dull chain I have had smokes and doesnt cut. It chips of you lean on it and it's a stihl chain. They are hard unlike a Chinese chain. I just want to make sure I'm not missing something before I scrap a good expensive chain. I'm not new it's just a new question for a weekend warrior.
 
So I've been cutting for 7 years now and this is a newbie question. My recent ash tree issues have had me cutting a ton. I hand file all my chains and grind the guides down but the other day half way through an ash tree my stihl was just kind of gliding on the wood. I thought the guides were to tall so I ground them down and not much of a difference. If I lean on the saw it chips but I dont want to do that. The chain is filed every time I clean it after use so it's been filed a lot but still looks good. This isn't the only saw doing this same thing. When is it time for a new chain? Like a real one, a stihl not some box store soft saftey one. My little green poulan runs box store chains and has seen a lot of file and tree work and currently chips better than the stihl yellow one.
Post a picture of your cutters please..top and side profile
 
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This is what you get my phone is 3 years old. Yes they could use a file to be finger cutting sharp. But lean against the spikes and it chips and cuts. I know a new chain will fix this but I'm not rich I heat with wood..
 
dull for sure .. from what I can see/make out with the picture is your gullet is not deep enough to the top of the cutting edge! what I can see for a true shot is the depth of the incline or ramp of the cutter between the raker and the gullet bottom. in other words "you re filing free hand with out a guide" … would I be guessing correct!
 
I hand file all my chains and grind the guides down . . . When is it time for a new chain? Like a real one, a stihl not some box store soft saftey one. My little green poulan runs box store chains and has seen a lot of file and tree work and currently chips better than the stihl yellow one.
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From the one photo, it looks like that chain has well over half its useful life left. People routinely toss perfectly good chains when dull. But aside from being dirty, I don't see anything with this one that can't easily be fixed with basic sharpening, assuming all of the cutters are like this one.

- The top plate cutting edge is blunt / full. This needs to be sharp. You should not see any light reflected off this edge.
- Can't see the side plate cutting edge, but this also needs to be sharp, especially the upper part.
- The corner, where these 2 edges meet should be pointy (full chisel chain) or at least sharp (semi chisel chain). This will be a 'natural' result of filing the edges above. That one is blunt, like driving a rounded nail into wood.
- Looks like you are going deep into the gullet (I see nicks in the tie straps). The gullet does not cut. It carries chips. It should be clean, but don't obsess over it.
- After adjusting your depth gauges, it is good practice to round them over, to roughly match the factory profile, and avoid any hang ups at a sharp edge.

But lean against the spikes and it chips and cuts.
If you are doing this you are overloading your saw. A sharp chain will cut almost effortlessly (in most wood).

That chain could easily be saved with just a few minutes of filing, saving you $15 to $25 per loop replacement cost. I am assuming that you are free-hand filing, and might benefit from using a basic file guide, to correctly position the file, especially for the top edge. Always use a sharp file (typically $1.50 each if you buy by the dozen).

Some box stores sell Oregon chain, which is good chain. The 'green' and 'yellow' designations have to do with being reduced kickback or not. I assume that the green / 'safety' chain on your Poulan cuts better because it is sharp, regardless of the brand. Compare the cutters on your chains with a new one when filing, especially the areas mentioned above. Then figure out how to get there: free-hand file, file guide, grinder, etc.

Philbert
 
I do free hand file. I could never figure out how the guide worked and it seemed to get in the way. Yes the saw is dirty because I just used it. I will clean it up and file the chain. Maybe some of my problem is not applying enough pressure because the stihl chain is a lot harder than the Oregon ones from home depot. Those file real easy. I'll do my best to get it back in shape. It's the original chain and also a 20 inch bar so theres a chance I got a bit lazy filling all those teeth a few times...
 
I do free hand file. I could never figure out how the guide worked and it seemed to get in the way. Yes the saw is dirty because I just used it. I will clean it up and file the chain. Maybe some of my problem is not applying enough pressure because the stihl chain is a lot harder than the Oregon ones from home depot. Those file real easy. I'll do my best to get it back in shape. It's the original chain and also a 20 inch bar so theres a chance I got a bit lazy filling all those teeth a few times...
I was gifted a new oregon chain and couldn't believe how soft it was compared to the stihl chain. Just curious what brand of file you are using and when you replaced it last? Having a clean,oil free chain helps in filing.
 
[QUOTE="Mustang71, post: 7233338, member:also a 20 inch bar so theres a chance I got a bit lazy filling all those teeth a few times...
[/QUOTE]
i know you know, but, ya gotta file all the teeth, the same, every time! find the worst one and start with it. if it takes 6 file strikes to fix it, all the teeth on both sides of the chain should get 6 strokes.
Someone else mentioned a good sharp file too, i used to cheap out on files till i noticed the difference. i still use 'sthil' ones as that's what's available locally but as soon as it feels the least bit dull i toss it for a new one. Keep them clean as you go (wipe on your pant leg or whatever) and don't drag or let it touch the chain on the return. it's taken me 100's of sharpenings to get a decent feel for it, and i still suck and can't get them quite like new!
 
I use the Stihl 2-1 file guide and love it.
I do sharpen more aggressively on one side more than the other, so have to watch myself and check every three or four sharpening, and correct with extra strokes.
Another thing, as mentioned, change files more often then you might think.
And check your bar for burrs and level shoulders.
There are inexpensive hand held file guides for your bar, and gages to check proper match for chains and bars.
Flip your bar over after sharpening three or four times will help.
My Husquvarna runs a 0.058 gage and Stihls a 0.050 gage chain.
If I put a sharp 0.050 gage chain on a 0.058 gage bar it will not cut well, of course. It will lay over.
Try a Stihl 2-1file guide. It indexes off the top of two teeth, keeping the file height consistent.
They are dedicated guides, so the 3/8" guide only works on 3/8" chain. Pica needs it's own size guide and files.
 
I was gifted a new oregon chain and couldn't believe how soft it was compared to the stihl chain. Just curious what brand of file you are using and when you replaced it last? Having a clean,oil free chain helps in filing.
I just use Oregon files. For touching up chains a file will last months for me. If I end up having to do a rocked chain It can eat a file in a couple of loops. Especially with a rocked Stihl chain.

I use the basic file guides and twist the file a few times per loop. Once it’s not biting well I toss it. Always try to keep a spare file of each size in the garage.
 
@Mustang71 We have probably overloaded you with a bunch of information and criticism - it happens frequently on a site like this with a bunch of guys passionate about a topic. Your chains really look close, if you can improve your cutting edges and corner. Here are some simple videos that show how to sharpen with the basic filing guides:




*Lots of good info in this video: filing is between 21:50 and 28:45

These are both from STIHL, but apply to any brand of chain. Lots of other videos out there, but you take your chances.

Please let us know your results!

Philbert
 
I use Oregon files and do replace them. I had read mixed things about the stihl 2 in 1 file. I thought it was a cool idea. I never really paid much attention to what part of the tooth I filed just that I was at the proper angle and try not to drag the file on the back stroke. Lots of good info thanks. I'm not sitting at home like a lot of people are right now. I still have to go to work but I will try to get some time to clean and file the saw soon. I have a 60 foot ash tree laying in my yard at the moment so I'll have to grab my other stihl and get it cut up.
 
When the cutters are breaking it is time to lay them to rest. This thread has been beaten many times. The sharpening does not look good. The rakers are way too high from my first impression. The file needs to be lifted slightly so the top edge of the cutter is sharp as it does not look good. You are are few who try to file your chains so good for you. It does take practice and some skill to get it right. So get a little bigger saw a couple rolls of chain and dominate your wood cutting experience. It is a learning curve by the time you can write a book you will be old like me. Thanks
 
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