Tongue and groove scarf or notch?

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Ekka

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Righto.

I've only seen it once and cant remember it 100%.

Lopa has spoken of it often but hasn't let the cat out of the bag on details.

So, I had a few moments today between slaying some more chitsticks and thought I'll give it a go.

Is this right?

Approx 2.28mins and 12.08mb wmv this is the correct version and has been updated thanks to the work in this thread by Lopa and Trev.

www.palmtreeservices.com.au/video/tongueandgroove.wmv
 
Last edited:
Ekka said:
Righto.

I've only seen it once and cant remember it 100%.

Lopa has spoken of it often but hasn't let the cat out of the bag on details.

So, I had a few moments today between slaying some more chitsticks and thought I'll give it a go.

Is this right?

Approx 1.45mins and 8.76mb wmv

www.palmtreeservices.com.au/video/tongueandgroove.wmv
Click to expand...

Very nice Ekka. Good demo vid. That sure looks like the method that Lopa used. I am sure he will confirm. Thanks for posting.
 
Cool

ekka, nice video! that is one cool cut ...I will use this for alot of trees around here. we have alot of leaners and are constantly cutting in windy conditions. it looks similar to an advanced "mississippi cut"

-mike
 
No, but I'm as curious as the rest, I just cant find any details or video on certain cuts ... and here's another, this Coos Bay Cut that some are on about, like what is it???
 
someone else is better, far more knowledgeable than me in usage of this method.

i think i 1nd up him on one job thou only because he wasnt there!:rock:
 
sorry ekka its wrong,its quater cut with a bore,you would have it down pat in 10 seconds.
 
G'day I was asked by loppa to explain this mysterious felling cut I hope this is of some use to you.

The cut that I saw done by ekka is incorrect for this type of scarf(sorry about that) the reason is that if you try to wedge the tree over using this method you would be more lifting the tree, using more effort than is required. placing the wedge above or level with the scarf makes tipping it over easier.

regards Trev
 
Yes, thanks. Very clear illustration and explanation. When I saw Ekka's cut I wondered how much side stability you'd have with all the side play left by the saw. The way you show it, there is ZERO side play.

Questions -

  1. How much vertical distance between the 1-2 level and the 3-4 level?
  2. How wide is the "tongue"?
  3. How deep is the notch?

I'm considering using this on a dead pine, 14" DBH, and some live ones running 12" down to 6" or so.
 
G'Day
Smokechase11
I believe the scarf is called a tongue and groove(i'm not much for names as long as it works)

BlueRidgeMark
The scarf is cut approx 1/3 into the tree.
The bar of the saw is then plunged through the centre of the trunk level with the bottom of the mouth. for small dia trees the plunge need only be the width of the bar, for bigger dia trees up to 600mm the bar could be moved sideways a little, widening the plunged cut. note this plunge cut is right through the trunk 90 degrees to the back of the scarf.
Place a wedge into the back of the plunged cut and load it up (HIT IT)
Cuts 3 + 4 are made at approx 1/2 the height of the scarf opening making sure you DO NOT over cut the plunge cut.
Leave some hinge wood as normal and work tree over with the wedge.
 
Good one, I'll have to fell something on Monday and video it, even a palm pole will do, then I'll put the video up in this thread.

Now what's the bullet scarf?

Gee, you Victorians have funny terminology.
 
found this old photo..
attachment.php
 
Great, thanks for the pic.

Just as I thought, without cutting vertically the tongue would have to tear out, but it is inline with fibres. That's the bit that was throwing me.

I'll try it out on a chitstick tomorrow. :cheers:
 

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