Tongue and groove scarf or notch?

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I have a newly dead 10" ash leaner. Leaning back against the cut. And power lines to make even more fun. The catch is I am falling for a guy with an excavator. This cut will be perfrect to try with this tree. He'll put the bucket up on the trunk for insurance in case it goes the other way. Instead of using the wedge he can push it over with the bucket. I try to get pics and post them on this thread.
 
Adrpk said:
I have a newly dead 10" ash leaner. Leaning back against the cut. And power lines to make even more fun. The catch is I am falling for a guy with an excavator. This cut will be perfrect to try with this tree. He'll put the bucket up on the trunk for insurance in case it goes the other way. Instead of using the wedge he can push it over with the bucket. I try to get pics and post them on this thread.
You are going to practise a new cut with powerlines around? Does this operator know what he is doing in regards to pushing trees? Is it a cleanout bucket on the hoe or is it a rock bucket thats teeth can prevent the tree from slipping? And so on....
 
John Ellison said:
With my comp/connection I dont download the video's but with the still pic I am wondering what the usefulness of this notch is? For countering a side lean?

not really more for direction,its a r.o.w specialty cut the line side first and nip the other side out while an assistant slams the wedge(s).
 
clearance said:
You are going to practise a new cut with powerlines around? Does this operator know what he is doing in regards to pushing trees? Is it a cleanout bucket on the hoe or is it a rock bucket thats teeth can prevent the tree from slipping? And so on....
Rock bucket. No hoes, it's a big excavator. He'll be in the way of the wires. If it falls towards the wires it will hit that machine also and I am sure he won't go with the plan if he thinks that will happen. Thanks for the concern, clearance.
 
I just updated the video to a correct version, the old one is history. Thanks for your help guys.

What I found was the piece fits really snug, you have to give it a good clobbering with the wedge.

I suppose make the step smaller.

Next thing would be to practice it on leaners and also have a tapered hinge ... that would have to be some serious advantage.
 
Trev said:
G'day I was asked by loppa to explain this mysterious felling cut I hope this is of some use to you.

The cut that I saw done by ekka is incorrect for this type of scarf(sorry about that) the reason is that if you try to wedge the tree over using this method you would be more lifting the tree, using more effort than is required. placing the wedge above or level with the scarf makes tipping it over easier.

regards Trev


What the! Another Trev from Victoria Australia cutting trees and on here. Where you guys working? Down Gippsland way by the look of things?
:cheers:
Trev
 
advantage

John E:
I think the advantage is that this is one of the cuts where you can use a wedge longer than the back cut. Just keep driving it without worrying about burying it.

In a post earlier it was mentioned that it would work up to 600mm (isn't that about 20"?).

Figuring 2/3rds in for the back cut possible. That would be 14". Drop that back, for the hinge width, lets say 12" for wedge being used, that might be about right.

One might be able to place the bore cut closer to the back cut level and not have to 'pop' as much wood. I suspect that some species might make this cut a bit difficult with their cell bond strength.

Another advantage is that a face center bore is one of the best barber chair avoidance cuts. So it could be viewed as having the right tendency.
 
The main species this cut is used on is pinus radiata in Australia,
We also use it on small dia. eucalypts that have some height.
The notch gives the tree felling direction, keying the tree in place untill it is almost horizontal, very little chance of it going sideways, unless you make the key to small.

600mm is approx 2ft

Ps G'Day Trev, Yes another one, and working in Gippsland

Regards Trev
 
dead ash

Adrpk said:
I have a newly dead 10" ash leaner. Leaning back against the cut. And power lines to make even more fun. The catch is I am falling for a guy with an excavator. This cut will be perfrect to try with this tree. He'll put the bucket up on the trunk for insurance in case it goes the other way. Instead of using the wedge he can push it over with the bucket. I try to get pics and post them on this thread.
Well, didn't have the time to do the tongue and groove notch. The excavator guy called me over with the bucket on the tree. I notched it quick and then back cut it and it was down in a second. Fell on a dime. Didn't waste any other trees. Hurray.
 
Adrpk said:
Well, didn't have the time to do the tongue and groove notch. The excavator guy called me over with the bucket on the tree. I notched it quick and then back cut it and it was down in a second. Fell on a dime. Didn't waste any other trees. Hurray.
O.K., on the ground, good, please don't think I am lecturing or talking down to you. There is a lot of holding wood left, I assume you put in the cuts and then the tree was pushed? The backcut is below the undercut. I have worked with excavator operators (hoes) clearing a lot of land, many truckloads of logs, guys taught me a few things and I learned. It is important the op. knows what he is doing, excellent ops. that have never pushed trees can kill you, make sure they do exactly as you say, exactly. Make sure the hoe is right behind were you want the tree to fall, make sure the hoe has an encapsulated roll over protective structure (e.r.o.p.s.), this is for the ops. protection in case the tree lands on the machine. All machines doing landclearing must have erops. The machine must have a rock bucket at least, clean out buckets are no good. Pressure on the tree only enough so your saw doesn't pinch, thats it, put in the cuts, cut off enough holding wood so it doesn't chair, leave enough so its committed. Walk away to where the op. can see you, in a safe place, make sure the area is clear, again, and then signal the op. to push. There is more, its all good Adrpk.
 
my first scarf cut

ok heres my first pathetic attempt on a scarf cut. it was a 15" eastern Red Oak. it was previously damaged from a winter storm and was about 30' tall and in need of felling.

i tried wedging it down from the back like in ekkas vid, but i guess the oak is stronger. and this was all log. so a little mor fancier boreing was needed but it fell exactly and my groundie, and thge customer were pretty impressed with the new notch. i will try it on a pine the next oppertunity i get it will work on that real well.

mike
 
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