Total Rebuild Complete Stihl 076 Super

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Hi gents,

You may recall I swapped an ms 180 and a few bits for it for a 076 AV Super a few weeks ago.

Although it sounded fine, a pressure test revealed a PTO side oil seal leak.

As I went further into the saw to change the seals, I could see the bearings had rust on them and the whole area was covered in crap. It was then I decided to do a full rebuild, split the case, new bearings, seals, gaskets, clutch springs etc. Deep clean and reassembly.

This is my 5th total rebuild now (I started in September 19 so I well and truly have the bug) and two saws stand out as being a PITA to build, this one and the 039.

They just seem poorly thought out, not necessarily the most rebuild friendly.


The 260 and 034 I did were wonderful, so simple and logical. The 180 too, very easy to work on. 039 and 076 you suck and not in the endearing meaning of the word often used here.
It also has the outboard clutch and chain adjuster that requires 3 arms and 2 pairs of eyes.

 

[jp233]

yeah a lot of older saws seem to be not mechanic-friendly. With cars, this is how dealerships pump up the labor hour numbers for jobs. For saws one would think it's the same idea, even if it's not on purpose it still could help the bottom line of the wrench-shops. However, the other side of that coin is that with shorter labor hours to finish jobs, the dealers can stand to take on more work and not have backlog or delay for their customers. It's a balancing act.

From a strictly technical standpoint, some newer designs just lend to being much easier to work on, and hopefully have ways to get parts to last longer and hence the overall unit.

That 076 AV Super looks awesome. I've never seen one before in person. So it's 111cc ?? Did the original 076's really use those smaller bar nuts, not the big giant ones like my 028 and 038 of the same vintage have?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

yeah a lot of older saws seem to be not mechanic-friendly. With cars, this is how dealerships pump up the labor hour numbers for jobs. For saws one would think it's the same idea, even if it's not on purpose it still could help the bottom line of the wrench-shops. However, the other side of that coin is that with shorter labor hours to finish jobs, the dealers can stand to take on more work and not have backlog or delay for their customers. It's a balancing act.

From a strictly technical standpoint, some newer designs just lend to being much easier to work on, and hopefully have ways to get parts to last longer and hence the overall unit.

That 076 AV Super looks awesome. I've never seen one before in person. So it's 111cc ?? Did the original 076's really use those smaller bar nuts, not the big giant ones like my 028 and 038 of the same vintage have?

Some great info there, thanks for sharing. These are standard bar nuts as far as I’m aware? They take an m15 socket.

yes 111cc, the compression is stupidly high too.

 

[Kidneycutter]

Hi,
I'm still rebuilding my 075. Just got off the phone from stihl technical - not sure which bearings to use. I was sent sealed bearings( by an authorised dealer) which I sent back. Now they have sent bearings with polymer cages.
I'm waiting to hear what stihl say ...the originals are obviously metal cagEs. I did also buy bearings for a fraction of the price from a bearing company which are metal cage c3's.
Be interested to know how hot you get the crankcase before dropping them in. Do you freeze them?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Hi,
I'm still rebuilding my 075. Just got off the phone from stihl technical - not sure which bearings to use. I was sent sealed bearings( by an authorised dealer) which I sent back. Now they have sent bearings with polymer cages.
I'm waiting to hear what stihl say ...the originals are obviously metal cagEs. I did also buy bearings for a fraction of the price from a bearing company which are metal cage c3's.
Be interested to know how hot you get the crankcase before dropping them in. Do you freeze them?

hey, just pop the bearing seals off and remove the grease with brake cleaner then oil them with 2 stroke oil
I brought mine from a bearing shop too and went with NSK’s (Japanese) good up to 19,000 RPM.
I paid 8 Aussi dollars for one and 9 for the other. Stihl wanted 46 for one and 36 for the other.

I brought:

NSK 6203 2RS C3 JP
NSK 6204 2RS C3 JP

They had plastic seals on them too. Just use a butter knife to pop them off both sides and you’re good to go!

I heat the case to 150c and freeze the bearings.