Trouble shooting craftsman saw

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11Taco

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Hey guys, i think this is the right place for this post. If not, we can move it.

Alright, so i started tinkering with a saw that was given to me and i pulled it apart as much as i could this afternoon to see what was obvious. Replaced the fuel lines, spark plug, and purge bulb, and air filter so far. I have a new gas cap on the way because this one leaks pretty bad. Any ways, did all that, tested to see if she sparks and she does. Tried to start her and it didn't even think about trying. Smelled fuel and it had dumped fuel back into the carb and soaked the filter and flooded the piston. Emptied her out and wiggled some things and the fuel stopped pouring into the carb. Went back to start her up again sans filter, and it sounded a little more willing. But only under full throttle. Took the exhaust off and sunder full throttle again (after plenty of pulling) she started. The exhaust doesn't look clogged, but she sure doesn't want to start with it on. Ive never done much in the way of tuning carbs but i plan on learning on this one. I "reset" it by closing both high and low jets and then reopening 1.5 turns and played around after that until it would start up again (only at full throttle) she won't idle at all. No studder, or cough, just full throttle to dead. My main question is whether the piston looks too scored up to even proceed further and think that ill ever get it running well. I attached some pictures. 0918170919a.jpg
 

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Use it as a learning experience and pull the engine apart. You likely can get it running again with just a new ring and a bit of elbow grease. Parts are available but you gotta watch spending more than the saw is worth.

That said, whenever you get an engine with an unknown history, pull the muffler and check for scoring before throwing parts at it. I personally would sit that saw on a shelf until someone came along with another that I could salvage parts from.
 
Use it as a learning experience and pull the engine apart. You likely can get it running again with just a new ring and a bit of elbow grease. Parts are available but you gotta watch spending more than the saw is worth.

That said, whenever you get an engine with an unknown history, pull the muffler and check for scoring before throwing parts at it. I personally would sit that saw on a shelf until someone came along with another that I could salvage parts from.
Yea that was my main reason even starting to mess around with it was to use it as a learning experience. im not too far in, and yea ive been keeping my eye on what im throwing at it. theyre pretty cheap saws new, but hey, its giving me something to do after work which saves me bar money haha. for cleaning up the piston what would you say? atf and elbow grease?
 
For 22$, just buy a new piston assy...

Buff out the cylinder. But you need to find out why it burned up to begin with.
true, that part is cheap, but I really don't want to be throwing more money at it than its really worth. already have $20 in it. I wish we had a reasonable small engines parts store around here so I didn't have to keep paying shipping for an item that costs half of what the shipping is. but in the long run its about the same cost I guess.
 
It's an unplated bore, so if it's scored the cylinder is likely shot.
 
It's an unplated bore, so if it's scored the cylinder is likely shot.
curious, will I need to remove the clutch assy to pull out the crank and piston? I assume yes, but hope no since I don't have the right tool to take this one off.
 
curious, will I need to remove the clutch assy to pull out the crank and piston? I assume yes, but hope no since I don't have the right tool to take this one off.
It is not necessary to have the tool . If you have a length of old starter rope to stop the piston , a drift , and a hammer you can remove the clutch . It is a left hand thread so clockwise will unthread it .
 
It is not necessary to have the tool . If you have a length of old starter rope to stop the piston , a drift , and a hammer you can remove the clutch . It is a left hand thread so clockwise will unthread it .
sorry, new to chainsaw tools (or maybe just this tool haha) but whats a "drift"?
 
IIRC, this model has 4 bolts that go thru Chassis - Engine Pan - Cylinder. So, you could leave clutch on and pull cyl after removing muffler and intake (maybe the flywheel, but I doubt it.)
 
IIRC, this model has 4 bolts that go thru Chassis - Engine Pan - Cylinder. So, you could leave clutch on and pull cyl after removing muffler and intake (maybe the flywheel, but I doubt it.)
yea it does have 4 bolts holing that on. I just didn't know what all needed to be taken off to slide her on outta there.
 
yea it does have 4 bolts holing that on. I just didn't know what all needed to be taken off to slide her on outta there.
Yeah, 4 bolts. But some models have 4 more bolts holding engine pan to cyl. I don't THINK this is the latter model. Point is that cyl can be lifted straight up and leave crank, clutch, FW in place. You can inspect cyl, piston, ring and see if worth rebuilding. Disadvantage - if you want remove clutch or FW later - a whole easier with engine all bolted together.
 
cool. ill start tearing back into here soon. damn shoulders are sore from yanking the starter cord so much yesterday. I need on of them electric starts.
 
The crankshaft passes through the oil pump that is bolted to the case behind the clutch. You will need to remove the clutch.

Pull the spark plug and shine a light inside to look at the cylinder wall above the exhaust port. If it is damaged (likely) you're better off getting a used engine off eBay. I cut most of my wood with these saws, but this one has no A/V suspension so it's of limited use and not much value. They will buzz your hands numb in a tank.
 
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