Trouble shooting craftsman saw

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The crankshaft passes through the oil pump that is bolted to the case behind the clutch. You will need to remove the clutch.

Pull the spark plug and shine a light inside to look at the cylinder wall above the exhaust port. If it is damaged (likely) you're better off getting a used engine off eBay. I cut most of my wood with these saws, but this one has no A/V suspension so it's of limited use and not much value. They will buzz your hands numb in a tank.
did not know the a/v part. would have figured it out eventually. how much are you picking up used engines for on ebay? I figured that would be pretty cost prohibitive considering the low value of the saw in general.
 
did not know the a/v part. would have figured it out eventually. how much are you picking up used engines for on ebay? I figured that would be pretty cost prohibitive considering the low value of the saw in general.
Well that is the problem. You can often find a decent engine for $35, but of course it's pot luck and you never really know what you're getting. I simply won't use a saw without A/V anymore because it bothers my hands, and often you can pick up an A/V version of that same saw for not much more than the engine. There are many Craftsman branded A/V versions, and the Poulan Pro 260 is the same thing but with a chrome plated bore. Those are the best of that series.

This one has a bare-bore engine with a bunch of mods, but I'm linking it because the chain was poorly sharpened and bouncy as heck, and you can see the suspension working:
 
Well that is the problem. You can often find a decent engine for $35, but of course it's pot luck and you never really know what you're getting. I simply won't use a saw without A/V anymore because it bothers my hands, and often you can pick up an A/V version of that same saw for not much more than the engine. There are many Craftsman branded A/V versions, and the Poulan Pro 260 is the same thing but with a chrome plated bore. Those are the best of that series.

This one has a bare-bore engine with a bunch of mods, but I'm linking it because the chain was poorly sharpened and bouncy as heck, and you can see the suspension working:

Yea i can't say that ive used a non av yet. But my weedeater makes my hands weak after a little while od doing that so i assume the saw would be even worse.
 
A fresh smear of grease on the drive cable of a trimmer, --sometimes-- makes a noticeable difference in the vibrations.
Mine get a yearly lube job
You can defiantly feel the difference when you grab one that's been run for a few years without being greased and grease it.

A beat up or worn ( from scrubbing the ground, etc.), string head will sting your tendons also.
Dirt inside will throw it out of balance enough to feel too.
 
A fresh smear of grease on the drive cable of a trimmer, --sometimes-- makes a noticeable difference in the vibrations.
Mine get a yearly lube job
You can defiantly feel the difference when you grab one that's been run for a few years without being greased and grease it.

A beat up or worn ( from scrubbing the ground, etc.), string head will sting your tendons also.
Dirt inside will throw it out of balance enough to feel too.
All of those sound like this old trimmer haha. I got it from my father when he was going to throw it away. He hasn't used it in years and apparently had only used ethanol fuel. But shes running again, ill try adding grease to see if that helps me out.
 
Like one guy said, need to think about what caused that scoring.

Might have been running lean, due to for example a bad carb.

Keep a eye open for some more of them Craftsman saws, they are good for getting chainsaw mechanical experience.
Then when you see a good made saw that gives less problems you will appreciate it more and be able to more readily recognize such.;)
 
Like one guy said, need to think about what caused that scoring.

Might have been running lean, due to for example a bad carb.

Keep a eye open for some more of them Craftsman saws, they are good for getting chainsaw mechanical experience.
Then when you see a good made saw that gives less problems you will appreciate it more and be able to more readily recognize such.;)

Thanks guys, and yea that kinda my whole reason for tinkering with this one. ive used saws a lot but never worked on them much.
 
Question, how would you test to see if the carb ha a bad jet? would I need to break it down and visually check or is there some other method that might not involve small springs shooting across the room?
 
The spring is not compressed when the jet is unthreaded .
is are you talking about the spring on the adjustment screw or inside the actual carb? clearly Ive just replaced the carb in the past and not bothered with troubleshooting :angry:
 
[QUOTE="lone wolf, post: 6351784, member: 41388"
ive been reading various posts for months now looking for answers. More than half the time i was able to figure things out from others wisdom. Im mechanically inclined but these small motors are a different animal. Ive been tring to stick to some of the same make saws looking to see similarities but i keep buying different brands just becausr its a solid model of the make.. You seem to lime the poulans so im asking for advice. I bought a dayton 17in 50+ year old saw pratically brand new. Poulan 361. So when i bought it im convinced old gas killed it. The put full choke on 1 pull and it would have kept running i believe if he would have slid the choke to half quickly. Thats how strong it turned over. After that it never started again. I toom the screws off the top of tge choke( first person to ever do that) and it loomed decent. I tired to force to to run by drowning it with starter fluid after changing tbe gas pf course. Unconventional buti gpt itto run without any good trigger response by running it with one carb screw removed. Basically i wad just able to keep it running. I cant even figure out how to remove the carb for cleaning. Its so clean from observing tge top that it doesnt need rebuilt. I know i seem like a lost cause but id appreciate if ypu could tell me something
 
ive been reading various posts for months now looking for answers. More than half the time i was able to figure things out from others wisdom. Im mechanically inclined but these small motors are a different animal. Ive been tring to stick to some of the same make saws looking to see similarities but i keep buying different brands just becausr its a solid model of the make.. You seem to lime the poulans so im asking for advice. I bought a dayton 17in 50+ year old saw pratically brand new. Poulan 361. So when i bought it im convinced old gas killed it. The put full choke on 1 pull and it would have kept running i believe if he would have slid the choke to half quickly. Thats how strong it turned over. After that it never started again. I toom the screws off the top of tge choke( first person to ever do that) and it loomed decent. I tired to force to to run by drowning it with starter fluid after changing tbe gas pf course. Unconventional buti gpt itto run without any good trigger response by running it with one carb screw removed. Basically i wad just able to keep it running. I cant even figure out how to remove the carb for cleaning. Its so clean from observing tge top that it doesnt need rebuilt. I know i seem like a lost cause but id appreciate if ypu could tell me something
 

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