upgrading log splitter

[Patrick62]

Here is my plan. I have given this some thought and I decided that if a splitter has a engine, it should be able to move under it's own power. So I ordered a few parts, and am starting a transformation.
It was kinda slow, so I am going to a 16 gpm pump.
I will keep the 5" cylinder, and the 6.5 hp engine.
low speed high torque motor hooked into a rear axle.
Some kind of a 3rd, steerable wheel. Second valve and a few hoses and I have a reversable 3 wheel crawler. I figure the top speed would be walking pace.

This also gives me a chance to replace the wedge that ain't straight.
And move the valve to a sensible location.
Also put on a larger oil tank to help keep things cooler.

This is gonna be fun!
-Pat

 

[ray benson]

The 16 gpm, 2 stage pumps i have seen - recommend an 8 hp motor.

 

[Patrick62]

I read that as well

I will get a 8hp motor, eventually. While I am at it, a 22 gpm pump.

For now it will be intersting to see if my 6.5 can handle it.

I figure that 20% faster would be nice, as it was S - L - O - W before.

Okay, I start looking for a 8hp. Overkill is a good thing (sometimes).

-pat

 

[begleytree]

I've always wanted steerable axles on my chipper for those really tight backyards
-Ralph

 

[CaseyForrest]

6.5 horse will stall turning a 16gpm pump. I tried it, wanted to save money as I had the 6.5 sitting around. Ended up buying 8 horse and no problems.

 

[Patrick62]

It costs $$$, and work.

I wish I had a good way to self propel my log splitter.

Dan

For a few brief moments I was actually thinking that there has to be a way to run linkage off the ram and move one that way. Eventually, I figured out that it was gonna be a Rube Goldberg mechanical nightmare.
So I spend the bucks, and do it the other way.

-Pat

 

[tawilson]

I think it was here on a thread a while back someone suggested using a rear axle to build a splitter on and attach a hydraulic motor to it. I've got a 91 S-10 with a blown motor sitting in the back forty with that in mind for it someday.

 

[Patrick62]

Sometimes it ain't so simple

I have been welding away on this project. I now have a steerable rolling chassis. Since I am slightly concerned about the strength of my beam, I decided to bolt it on. Then I created a single front wheel. Using ball joints from a old Dodge, more steel, some pipe, steering box from a chev, more welding. It actually looks like a 3 wheel trike that deserves a honking big engine! However since I didn't use anything special for bearings (pipe inside of greasable clamshells) I would not try to go far or fast with it.
Now to mount a motor to the LUV rear axle, re-mount the cylinder, add some valves, hoses, create a oil tank, maybe a few other details.
My welding still sucks. I can stick two pieces together, but my vertical really looks like toads drool. Might help if I wasn't using a 6.5kw generator to drive a 8kw welder (Just a bit over loaded) burning 3/16 rod.

This is gonna be cool. maybe figure out how to get a photo on here for laughs.

-Pat

 

[tawilson]

Ok, I'm stupid, I missed in your first post that you already had planned on using a rear axle. Pics would be nice, and I wonder how the hydraulic motor will mount to the axle. Is there a manufactured linkage to do it, or are you welding something up?

 

[kennertree]

Be sure to post pics of it, i gotta see this.

 

[tawilson]

I'm assuming it will be a regular self centering valve, should go in reverse too. If I ever get to it, I'd like to take the bed off my S-10, mount the splitter back there, leave the cab and front end, and mount the valve for moving in the cab. Then it would be just like driving my truck around! Why I could even take out the old motor and stick the splitter one under the hood. Course I'm just wild dreaming and will probably never get to it.

 

[xander9727]

Post some pics!

 

[Menchhofer]

I receive a farm magazine and a couple years ago it listed a splitter someone had built with the steering and self propelled motion. Plans were available if I remember correctly. I will look to see if I still have the issue...

 

[CaseyForrest]

Ive seen that one too, had a buzz saw and splitter with a seat you can sit on and drive it around.

 

[Patrick62]

I will grab a camera tomorrow.

But it will be more impressive when I get a few more things put together.
I have been debating the instant surge thing. I have never used a hydraulic motor before, but I think it is gonna be quite jolt getting going.
How I figured it out:
After doing a paper full of math it really worked out to cubic inches.
Pump has 1 cubic inch displacement.
Motor has almost 16 Cu in.
That works out (in a perfect world) to 16 to 1.
engine will turn 16 times for motor to go once.
Rear axle (no locker) has 4.1 to 1 ratio.
End result is appox 39 RPM at the wheels.
This works out to about 3 mph using 14" may-pop tires.

Coupler? I will create this. Foreward and reverse with a motor spool valve. This gives me options. I can install a plug and have a "park". I can leave out the plug and have a freewheel effect. I am not sure which way would be best. If shifted to central on the valve then the machine is going to stop RIGHT NOW! with the plug in.

I was working on my push slider today. Then I can create a wedge, install the cylinder, and start trying to figure out where the valves go. Then a mess of hoses, retrofit a old tank into a oil tank, etc, etc, etc.

I will snap some pix, and figure out how to post them.
later!
-pat

 

[CaseyForrest]

You can also get a line lock or a check valve and put it in your hydraulic hose appropiately. For use as a brake.

 

[redprospector]

I traded for a feed wagon a few years back that was built this way.
They had mounted a sprocket on the drive shaft yoke, and mounted the hydraulic motor above on the frame with another sprocket and a roller chain connected the two. This way if it went too fast, or slow you could change the sprockets. A flow control valve would work for speed adjustment too.
I scrapped the feed wagon, and a six wheel homemade dozer for the motors, and cylinders when I was building my sawmill.

Andy

 

[Jwoods]

Patrick,
This sounds like a cool idea. I'm looking at the previous numbers, and the following came to mind:

If you keep the current engine, of 6.5 horsepower, and use a 16gpm pump (I am assuming single stage) the most pressure you could generate in the system is theoretically 696 psi. That's a splitting force of 13,659 lbs. on the 5" cylinder. (is this a little short of what is normal? I'm not sure).

At 1 cubic inch displacement, if the 6.5 horsepower engine is turning 1500 RPM's, the output of the hydraulic pump is only 6.5 GPM.

Sounds like a cool idea. I think if it were mine, I would use a closed center (A and B port) spool. The motor spool is typically used for large flywheel type loads. Metering notches on the spool would also allow you to "feather" the valve in and out of neutral.

 

[xander9727]

Why would you run the engine at 1500 rpm instead of 3600 rpm?

Most smaller hydraulic pumps are direct drive.........and isn't it the relief valve not the pump speed that determines max pressure on a positive displacement pump when used in a dead headed situation like a splitter ram?

 

[Jwoods]

Xander,

You are correct, it is the relief valve setting. As stated, if it is a single-stage pump, Patrick62 could run out of HP if the engine is not changed out when the bigger pump is installed.