Used gear

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Tom Dunlap

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Austin...but I'm 'from' Minnesota
In the past I have bought, or been give, used climbing and rigging gear from friends. Since I know these climbers and trust their gear use and skill as climbers/riggers I have full confidence in the performance of the equipment.

There are people that say that using used gear is stupid. Let's take a look at some of the other used gear that we use without giving it a second thought.

My house...the oldest part was built in the late teens. the first addition was put on in the fifties and the back porch and garage were done in the early seventies. How do I know that enough nails were used to frame the house? Was the electrician or plumber hung over when they put things together? What about the changing building codes? Am I scared of my house falling in or burning down? Nope not at all!

Personal car/truck...so far, I have only bought one brand new vehicle in my life. Even then, there are factory recalls for some pretty serious problems. Want to buy some used tires from an Explorer? :)

Work truck...the newest big truck I have ever bought was four years old with fifty thousand miles on it. It would be impossible to know how well the truck was maintained or what might go wrong with a used vehicle. Unless I knew the mechanic that had done all of the work, I can't be assured that the work was OK.

Climbing gear...can be checked quite well visibly. If I know the source and the gear is not shabby, what is the problem. I have owned many saddles and watched them age. In my mind's eye I have a good idea of what a worn saddle looks like. After the first day, we all have used ropes and saddles.

Biners and hardware...look seriously at what the circumstances are for any gear breakage. I have not heard of a climber ever being killed because of gear failing. I am sure that someone has died because of gear breakage and I am also confident that I will hear about "stories" without documentation though. Look at when gear breaks in a rigging situation too. Generally large pieces with dynamic loads: slam dunk rigging. After looking around the trees, take a peak at other vertical fields. Mountaineering, rock climbing, search and rescue...rarely are accidents because of gear failure. Take a look at the rack of a big wall climber in one of the magazines. Lots of well used gear but few accidents.

Condemning the purchase of used gear with a blanket does not amke sense to me. How about you?

Tom
 
I personally would not use used climbing gear of any sort.I have given my old saddles,spurs,flip-lines,and ropes to a few buddies who like to think they can get into a tree for building deer stands,they never get too far.I know the gear is still usable and they trust me.25$ for a biner,100$ for a new rope and 200$ for a new saddle is nothing these days.So why bother if you climb everyday.We all need a helping hand in our lives from time to time but when my ass is hanging from a crotch fifty feet above a concrete drive,second hand just want cut it.Now houses,boats,cars and women thats a different story.
 
i dont mind getting pulleys, and other solid metal gear. but for ropes- only thing i would ever use them for is tying down something on my trailer- or for swinging the chipper chute or something like that. never for work over homes and what not. i would never even consider climbing with used rope.
 

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