Wedge width

[NELOG]

It seems that everyone uses 1" steel for their splitter wedges. Can a shorter wedge be thinner? If one makes the wedge longer (i.e. more area in contact with the I-beam) does this compensate for a thinner wedge? If you were to make a box wedge, where there are two vertical wedges welded to the beam, could they be thinner, if they were joined with a horizontal piece? Thanks

 

[enjoys cutting]

wedge

hi, when i made my wedge for my splitter i used 3/8 by 12" steel flat bar and 1/4 by 2' angle. you take the 2 pieces of flat bar set it up on the i beem like a triangle and use the angle like the back. weld it in the middle, equal from the edges solid to the beem. it leaves a blunt edge facing forward that you can fill in with weld or a piece of round bar, then grind to an edge. i made the wedge long because i split big wood, but you can make it what ever size you need.

 

[Patrick62]

Two things to consider

Narrow like the mentioned 1 inch steel works like a knife blade. It will split anything. Wider has the advantage that block will split with less than a full stroke most of the time speeding up the process.

I made a "wide" version by welding together a pile of old leaf springs. It tapers down to a sharp point giving me something to work with on knots. I configured the sides concave, and it does a decent job.

-Pat

 

[turnkey4099]

MIne is 1/2"x6", 9" tall. Sharpened to a point. Wings added starting 1 1/2" back from the point and spreading to 3" at rear. This allows the split to begin before the wings start forcing it open. Helps in tough stuff. Were I doing it over I would change three things.

Make the wedge longer.
Start the wings back further.
Set it at an angle so the split starts on a point vice the full length of the wedge.

Of course mine is rather anemic as far as power goes so every little bit helps.
(6hp 6x1 reduction - 15 gpm pump)

Harry K