wedges to change lean

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boynature

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Can any one recommend a source that fully explains how to fell a tree the opposite direction of the lean using wedges, something with diagrams and an explanation of how to figure the segments a tree has and how many wedges will be needed to fell a tree the opposite direction of the lean. I've seen it done and have attempted it myself but want to fully understand this technique. or maybe someone can explain it on this tread. Thanks for your help.:popcorn:
 
Nature boy, look around on the search function of this site, pay close attention to what the fallers have to say. Replying to this is like telling an Irish joke to a room full of Irishmen, you have to explain it too many times. (don't go there, I'm part Mick) just pointing out.
 
It is covered in this book...Bailey's has it, I am sure others do, too.

"Professional Timber Falling" by Douglas Dent
Learn how to fall and buck trees safely. Covers everything from equipment & maintenance to directional falling, and problem trees. 5-1/2" x 8-1/2", 182 pages. Soft cover.
 
Edit: Great Book! Wedges, Tapered Hinge, Dutchmans understanding and warnings; affordable too!



This is something you have to have some experience with, and then work out in the batter's box per situation.

The amount of wedging force needed; is partially going to depend on how thick the hinge is, also the hinge height (amount of leverage), or how far back hinge is will change things on same tree too. A farther back hinge will give backlean less leverage, but will also give wedge, less leverage. i think we have a strong consensus that the back cut should be perpendicular to the spar/ not slanted; especially in wedging. This gives strongest, most solid 'backstop' on the stump side of wedge to make sure the wedge force is unforgiving lift; and also more leverage too i think.

Most backleans i like a high line in for leveraged pull forwards, wedge is help and more or less a safety / chock against sit back; but line does a lot of the work. Full side face with no dutchmans for ease of hinge movemeant. Wide across hinge for less resistance against folding forward. Tapered hinge for sideleans; so that hinge steers and all / as much as possible the exerted force of wedge and line serve forward into face squarely and quickly; not wasting a drop of that force for steering. If wood / hinge can't be trusted / completely; then help steer with wedge / line some.

The the part of force exerted with wedge / line that goes straight into face strengthens hinge giving another multiplier of your efforts; that pulling direction to steer against sidelean doesn't give. Tapered hinge uses the increase in forward force even better to steer, by placing tension fiber farther from compressed pivot of hinge (distance leverage wise increase), and more inline with spar (anglewise leverage increase); so leverages your forward force better multiplied 2 ways.

Those are just a few of the considerations that need to be maid on the spot; not necessarily a novice sport!
 
You need to shift the centre of mass of the tree relative to the support of the trunk.

With a straight tree, a face cut reduces the support area of the trunk, and leaves the remaining support to one side (away from the face cut.) Once the back cut is in, the weight of the tree pulls it over the unsupported side.

Wedges let you lift the back cut slightly, pivoting the tree about the hinge wood. If the wrong-side lean is only slight, this might be enough to move the centre of mass of the tree over the top of the stump to the other face-cut (unsupported) side.

If there is more than a slight lean you will probably need to winch the tree in the right direction, or take it down in bits.

Wedges can't work miracles.
 
Nice avatar!

i think the other component besides steering that wedging and line pull help with is hinge strength. The hinge strength is just a passive reflection of the force on the hinge at first folding. If we see the tree standing as hold, free movement/ disconnected as fall; fholding is the magical, median ground in between of dancing with all those forces lightly!

If we wedge or line pull forward a tree already going the correct direction, the extra force exerted goes to forcing a thicker/ stronger hinge in response. This, can make for surer steering, softer felling etc. i think line pull after first folding (if tree won't stall), 'weakens' hinge, but pull/ push at first folding strengthens hinge, exerted force before first folding just secures tree and sets up forces to be present at first folding.

1 good point on wedging is that as the tree first moves/ hinge folds, the wedge pressure stops, where a line pull can continue. So the wedge preserves hinge power making hinge movement slower/ more powerful; whereby the late line pull can take the same hinge and make it faster/ weaker in relationship to the forces on the hinge.
 
Thanks pantheraba

Just ordered the book you recommended,"Professional Timber Falling" by Douglas Dent . Looking forward to reading it, Knowledge is power!
 
woodfarmer said:
goto forestry and logging forum, "opinions on falling this tree", and don't believe everything you read most advice is good but some is real bad and dangerous
Very good, go to where the fallers hang out, some of them are on comm. climbers too. On this site, just like at a tree serv. everyones a faller, even the ones who don't know what caulks are, a humboldt is, the diff. between falling and bucking wedges, think dominos are a table game and so on. Some who are climbers, arborists and very good ones at those things develop what is known as "expertitus". As far as I am concerned a faller is a man who has worked falling trees for at least 5 five years, full time. I have cut down all kinds of trees over the years, but I am not a faller, I just try my best to do like they do.
 
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