wedges

[Rosss]

How do I get wedges in while chainsaw milling when I currently need both hands on the mill, one on the chainsaw trigger and the other guiding, applying pressure to the mill?

If I stop to install wedges it leaves a deeper mar in the surface from the restart.

I have a Jonsered 2095 that has the wire for a remote trigger, (it was running a jonsered chainsaw mill) so that could be part of the solution for me.

I am thinking of smaller logs where I could reach across to put a wedge in the opposite side, but just getting a wedge or two in the end of the log once i have moved in a foot or so would likely be enough?

What do people do when solo milling bigger logs where just reaching across isn't an option?

Thoughts?

 

[BobL]

1) get the log up off the ground high enough so you can apply pressure on the wrap handle with your knee, thighs or hip.
2) organize a remote throttle so you can keep the saw at WOT through the cut.
3) Use log rails for all cuts and place a hammer/mallet and scatter wedges on top of the previous cut in between the rails - the mills will slide over the top of the wedges and hammer.
4) use your arms to maintain pressure while you change feet positions - in between these steps you now have both hands free to put the wedges in.
I have long arms so can usually reach across a 36-40" wide cut to locate wedges.
5) Wheels on the inboard side of the mill help the mill roll down the log rather than jamming the bar clamps up pagans the log.
If you do have to stop don't FANG the saw/bar/chain back into the cut at WOT but ease it in gently.

If you are getting marking on the cut when backing out of the cut and allowing the saw to run in the kerf then your chain drive links may be too worn for your groove.
The bar groove may need crimping using a bar rail closing tool.
Full chisel can be a problem here as it tends to grab more in the sideways direction - another reason to use semi.


In this pic you can see the wedges with short lengths of yellow nylon cord attached to the in between teh rails


This shows the height that allows me to lean on the wrap handle with my left thigh


My remote throttle - has a built in throttle lock and kill switch.


Finish

 

[Rosss]

Thank you Bob

Can you describe how you do a stop and then go while milling?
I think it is something I am doing, not my equipment, that is leaving a deeper mark where I start and stop.

Also if I am milling a cookie with an chainsaw mill, any chain suggestions to get best finish with that? Not something I expect to do often, but I do have a tree I am going to try it with because the base splits into three trunks maybe a foot up from ground and it is down the street from me and is going to be removed.

Thanks

 

[BobL]

Can you describe how you do a stop and then go while milling?
I think it is something I am doing, not my equipment, that is leaving a deeper mark where I start and stop.

Stop is just releasing the trigger/throttle, don't move the mill back in the kerf.
Restarting, over 3-4 secs, ease the throttle up to WOT while moving the mill forward in the cut to take up the strain.
What not to do is go WOT in the already cut section of the log and then slam the bar into the kerf. It takes a bit of practice and I still don't get it right all the time

Also if I am milling a cookie with an chainsaw mill, any chain suggestions to get best finish with that? Not something I expect to do often, but I do have a tree I am going to try it with because the base splits into three trunks maybe a foot up from ground and it is down the street from me and is going to be removed.

Cookies are tricky.
Some suggestions.
The width of cut varies from nothing to full width so its highly likely during that process that your "cut speed" and "chain speed" will synchronise and you will hit a washboard zone.
This is very hard to eliminate - if you hit washboard try cutting slightly slower - even think about using a chain with higher rakers than usual.
Obviously you need to start with a well balanced stance that changes as little as possible during the cut.
Strap the log or log segment down so it can't move
Start the cut so you can cut as much as possible in one complete pass. - avoid stopping to reposition your stance.
Set up so the cut is as vertical as possible
Using a new chain and bar, or at least a bar which has a well fitting groove ie minimal chain slop in the groove.
If you are cutting cookies much smaller than your bar - try cutting two at the same time.

This washboard effect can happen when CSMing on narrow cuts.
The difference between these two cuts (same log/mill/chain etc)was the LHS was a slightly narrower cut than the RHS

 

[Rosss]

Thank you Bob.
The description of restarting is helpful. I look forward to trying that.
I have been doing some version of wot then into contact.