Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by HandLogger, Feb 27, 2019.
Sorry, what is OIC?
Texting lingo for"oh I see"! K do you C now?
Negative on the commie! The news sure if falling all over that nitwit! dont get me started!
"Oh I See"???
OK. There was a character on 77 Sunset Strip that did that chit!!!
He was groovy!!!
Although things began to go a bit astray here, I'm very glad to reads some good posts from other Ms361 people.
One poster, in particular, wanted to know how we presently test for spark ... Well, as I previously disclosed, we are not Stihl saw doctors, so I test for spark the old fashioned way: I remove the plug itself, reconnect it to the coil/plug wire, ground the base of the plug and, finally, I watch for spark as I pull the cord. As I have seen healthy arcing using this method with all of our Stihl saws -- in the past -- I assumed that it would still be a decent way to test for spark. After reading this thread, however, I'm not so sure ... and, oh, yes, the saw is box stock. Although I'm always keen to learn about ways to improve a saw's performance, there has been zero porting work done to the jug of this saw and no muffler mod, either.
Nope, the only problem I had with this saw was a bad coil too. One day after almost a year of no use, the saw would not start. Narrowed the problem down to the ignition.
Took me some time to find out as I had spark when I tested it with the plug out, but apparently it would not start under compression. Tested the old fashion way as well.bought a new coil (AM) and problem solved.
The only problem with the new coil that I have encountered is that the engine runs backwards at start sometimes…..but very seldom.
So when that happens, do you just flip the saw over?
Put the chain on backwards?
When I have a spark problem...I start by replacing the spark plug. Plugs can have all kinds of little problems like micro-cracks in the porcelain that can gap open when hot and short out.
Next, I check the spark plug gap to be sure it is within spec.
Next, check the gap between the flywheel and coil.
If none of these fix your problem, then my next move is to disconnect the kill wire from the coil and see if that produces spark.
Lastly I would remove the plug boot from the end of the plug wire and check to make sure the connector coil spring is making contact with the plug wire where it pierces the insulation. Sometimes this little sharp wire will get burned away due to a poor connection and give you intermittent contact.
If all the above items check out....then, in my book, it's time to replace the coil.
Yup! nuff said!
Thanks for the thorough recommendations, my friend.
You're absolutely right, spark plugs can inject weird symptoms, so that was one of the first things we replaced after experiencing this intermittent issue ... along with the air cleaner, and you MS200T people must know why we did that. Regardless, I will be sure to record these troubleshooting steps and give 'em a go as soon as we get all of this frickin' snow moved. Although things can always get worse, we've gotten more snow in the past 3 weeks or so than we had for the first 3 months of winter. Livin' in a mountainous setting ain't always what it's cracked up to be.
good luck with the repair.
I do have one final recommendation: don't sell that Stihl MS361. It's still about the best 60cc class saw that I own, and I would keep it rather than buy a new MS362. It has almost the same grunt as a 362 and is much easier to work on. The only part on my 361 in 11 years that I have ever had to replace is the pickup body. A tree removal company offered me one last year and I should have bought it. I may this year if they still have it.
As 'Wolfie said, "Good luck with the repair."
LOL, when it runs backwards, it runs like crap allright and will stall shortly afterwards. quite funny though.
I like the 361 very much and much to my excitement I bought another one that is still NIB. My grandson probably will eBay it in the future as "the last good 60cc saw Stihl produced in its hay days.
If your grandson ever does this with the saw NIB, send that internet link to me. I will give him an offer for that saw if he ships it to me with shipping costs from Belgium included with the price.
I cannot imagine anyone buying and then owning a Stihl MS361 for 12 years with the saw never started, never run, and still in the box. What a shame.
I have 200ts in boxes! The shame! Now 241's added recently.
I think that you're final recommendation is a pretty good one, Doc. Although I'd love to add another "mid-range" saw to fill the proverbial "gap" between the MS361 and the MS660s we run, I'm more and more convinced that the 361 holds a special place in our timber cutting arsenal. Once you get the darn thing started, you can operate it all day long long without having to run to the medicine cabinet (for the Naproxen) ... which is purty sweet.
I think back to a time when Baileys was selling Dolkita 7910s (or the equivalent Makita) for a very reasonable price -- and wish that I would have caught that boat before it sailed ... so I've always been on the lookout for a saw to fill said gap. What do you readers think of the MS461? It looks like a good powerhead to drive a reasonably short bar (say 20") without the obligatory "660 back strain."
The MS440 (or the 441) filled that gap beautifully at one time. Rumor has it that the 441 is being phased out. The 461 is a great saw, and I love my 046 Mag, which refuses to wear out. You can drive a 25" bar very nicely with a 440 or 441. The 461 is only a half pound heavier than a 441 and about 2 lb lighter than a 661.
Yeah, and without the long bar(s) we use with the MS661s, it's even a bit lighter than the 2 pounds you mentioned. Do you like the MS441 more due to its lighter weight, Doc?
I would also like to ask my fellow forum members what they think about all of the inexpensive (aka, cheap)
ignition modules that seem to be available for the Stihl MS361 ...
Has anyone tried one? Any thoughts on the performance/durability of these aftermarket ignition modules?
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