What a piece of crap

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There were cookies to go with it I just stopped long enough to snap a picture of the replacement hatchet.

this means you can quick go back to their returns pile area and grab a replacement head for cheap bucks! My local TSC has a whole little room for the markdowns/returns and is always the first place I go check out when I go in there.
 
I recently bought some handles from House Handle Co. on the strength of a couple recommendations here on AS. Good stuff at a great price. I sanded off the varnish, fit the handles to the heads properly and hung the heads, then a few coats of linseed oil. Nice results for sure! If the head is OK and they eye is of fairly standard size, and you already got it sharpened up, why not throw on a new handle?
 
Never leave your Murse that close to the stove....melting naugahyde might stink up the place.
 
The problem is he has apparently never used one, never seen one used but is willing to condemn a highly recommended tool solely because it has a plastic handle. Not at all a logical decision.

Yeah well... I got a Fiskars X27, even though I have a strong repugnance to steel, fiberglass, plastic or any sort of synthetic handle on a striking tool. I will admit the Fiskars handle is likely the best of any synthetic I’ve used… but it still ain’t a replacement for a good hickory handle in my mind. I got the Fiskars because of all the wonderful reviews I read right here on this board… I don’t have a negative review of it, but it sure don’t have the “magical” properties so many claim it does. Yep, it does a better job of splitting firewood than a felling axe… but it sure don’t replace a good hickory-handled maul. As far as a hatchet goes… not interested in a Fiskars, I’m sticking with a wooden handle.

So there ya' go... The Fiskars does not come "highly recommended" by me (but I ain't condemning it either).
If ya' like it that's fine, if ya' don't... well, ya' ain't missing out on all that much.
 
If ya' like it that's fine, if ya' don't... well, ya' ain't missing out on all that much.

Soapbox on:

If only we could apply this attitude to more issues. It seems most things in the world these days elicit either raves or rants when the middle ground, or at least a non-extremist position, generally works OK.

Soapbox off.
 
Soapbox on:

If only we could apply this attitude to more issues. It seems most things in the world these days elicit either raves or rants when the middle ground, or at least a non-extremist position, generally works OK.

Soapbox off.

Amen
 
I've been lucky in finding my splitting tools "American Pickers" style.
I don't use the old maul much at all,,I've got hydraulics for the big stuff. I do love the feel of the hickory handle. Had to replace it a couple winters ago,,new one was labeled ASH and made right close to me in Symore, Indiana. It's holding up well and feels great in the hand.
I gotta a little Eastwing hatchet by the wood stove in the go-rodge,,steel handle. Use a 3lb. hand sledge at times for driving it thru wood for kindling, not often,,but it happens. I've had it for years and years..
Recently scored and love a longer wood handled hatchet,,old school in looks and feel, which has replaced the Eastwing for the most part, I WON'T be using a hand sledge to drive it thru any thing. It works much better than the lil' hatchet.

My wood cuttin' buddy has two Fiskars, a long and short one. They do swing well and seem to split nice..I don't desire one, aint wanting one, either..That aint to say I wouldn't buy one on a whim if'n I had some x-tra doe and was feeling compulsive.

Call me a dummy, if'n you will,,my gun closet will never have plastic/polymer in it..tried that with a T/C black powder out fit,,it,,it just,,,didn't look right hanging out with them purty wood-stocked Remingtons...Each to their own is what I've always thought...Peace, men.
 
Soapbox on:

If only we could apply this attitude to more issues. It seems most things in the world these days elicit either raves or rants when the middle ground, or at least a non-extremist position, generally works OK.

Soapbox off.



Agreed!I'm a solid proponent of "whatever floats your boat" or "whatever blows your skirt up"
 
If you want to use a wooden handle fine, just don't cry when it breaks.

The (supposedly) unbreakable handle is a positive selling point for synthetic handles and such… but the negatives never get mentioned.

Simple physics… in order to apply equal force to the object being struck, steel and synthetic handles require you to grip tighter and swing harder than a hickory handle. Steel and synthetic handles absorb more recoil causing the tool head to “bounce-back” more… and that bounce-back equals a reduction of striking force.

Try this simple test…
Take three 16 oz hammers, one with a steel handle, one with a synthetic handle, one with a hickory handle and strike an anvil with them. Try to keep grip tension and swinging force as close to the same as possible for all three, and see which bounces higher off the anvil. The hammer with the hickory handle will bounce dramatically less. The more bounce, the more energy transferred into recoil and handle vibration… the more energy transferred into recoil and vibration, the less energy applied to the object being struck. To overcome this disadvantage with steel and synthetic you must grip tighter and swing harder. Steel and synthetics “absorb” more recoil (in a way, they “flex” more… sort of) which allows the tool head to get moving in the direction of recoil; hickory “dampens” recoil and vibration… makes the tool act more like a dead-blow. Using a hickory handle, if all else remains equal, you will expend less energy to accomplish the same amount of work.
 
Ouch!...Steel handle on a hammer? No thank you. Worked with a duck-bill hammer for breaking the bead on truck tires. Somebody broke the handle and weld a 1-1/2" pipe to it...as long as you hit rubber you were fine...Miss and hit the rim once. My hands sting just thinking about it!
 
The (supposedly) unbreakable handle is a positive selling point for synthetic handles and such… but the negatives never get mentioned.

Simple physics… in order to apply equal force to the object being struck, steel and synthetic handles require you to grip tighter and swing harder than a hickory handle. Steel and synthetic handles absorb more recoil causing the tool head to “bounce-back” more… and that bounce-back equals a reduction of striking force.

Try this simple test…
Take three 16 oz hammers, one with a steel handle, one with a synthetic handle, one with a hickory handle and strike an anvil with them. Try to keep grip tension and swinging force as close to the same as possible for all three, and see which bounces higher off the anvil. The hammer with the hickory handle will bounce dramatically less. The more bounce, the more energy transferred into recoil and handle vibration… the more energy transferred into recoil and vibration, the less energy applied to the object being struck. To overcome this disadvantage with steel and synthetic you must grip tighter and swing harder. Steel and synthetics “absorb” more recoil (in a way, they “flex” more… sort of) which allows the tool head to get moving in the direction of recoil; hickory “dampens” recoil and vibration… makes the tool act more like a dead-blow. Using a hickory handle, if all else remains equal, you will expend less energy to accomplish the same amount of work.

I don't think so man......you get a lot right, but not in this case as per your physics...observation correct, the conclusion isn't, it's backwards..you'll see it....

Same amount of energy if the weight is the same and the swing is the same, we'll start with that.. The slop, the wasted energy, is going into your hands/wrists/arms with the wooden handle and somewhat into a flex and compression of the wood, rather than a more pronounced bounce. The energy is neither created nor destroyed, just transferred *differently* One is not any more powerful than the other, just the energy is moved in a differing fashion.. And because in your example, when the steel is never going to be broken or split, no matter which handle is being used, it sort of doesn't translate to a discussion of an edged striking tool. The two that are bouncing in your example are actually working better, that's what the bounce is proving. It's going into the head and reflecting, not travelling into the handle as bad. Let's get back to edges and splitting in a bit...

The steel and synthetic will bounce, yes, but *you* are absorbing the slopped impact with the wooden handle,along with the wood compressing a little and bending a little, and breaking a little with every swing... which to me is a negative.

I want as much of the energy transferred as possible to the wood being split. Without having any wasted energy going into my hands, or having the handle take it and suffering catastrophic damage. I'm not getting any work out of the wooden handle it is a parasitic factor to the real world job at hand.

Here is a very close example, closer than your example I believe, and is researchable to prove this (continued)



Ever notice they don't allow metallic (or synthetic I guess) bats in pro baseball? They do this both from a nostaligia point of view, because of old records (they want to compare apples to apples as much as possible) and just..wooden bats,traditional, but *also*, from real world testing and analysis, because when a ball is struck with a metallic bat the return travel o the ball is much faster and harder than with a wooden bat. So muEch so it is instantly noticeable and at those pro levels, downright dangerous. There's MORE kinetic energy transferred to the ball and less "wasted" energy. It is SO much faster they consider it to be hazardous to the players.

Even with pro level player quality reflexes, the pitcher and infielders could be hit and suffer injury. Even at the top levels they quite literally could be faced with not being able to either catch or just dodge the ball. It happened a lot, they noticed this. It is allowed at lesser levels merely because neither the pitchers are as fast throwing, nor are the batters fast or hard enough swingers to have this dramatic result. It's there, but the results are still inside "normal human" reflex capability to deal with it. Go to pro level..different story...banned.

Same as in most other sports, either for competition or just for fun, where the *option* of having and using a synthetic handle is allowed or offered...the synthetics pretty much dominate based on real world "productivity gains".

example..how many world class pro tennis players use wooden racquets any more? Same deal, wooden handled tool in the hands striking something...they are alowed synthetics, they could use wood if they wanted to, some company could make one sell it for thousands a copy if it produced...uhh..doesn't happen. Real world engineering/physics and productivity gains. Lighter/faster/stronger, kinetic energy transferred to target better. Can use longer with less fatigue. And so on. Guys want to win the millions, that means the better tool handle. Wood ain't it.


Wood absorbs the shockwaves pretty well (when it doesn't break...), but it doesn't hit harder in other words, it transers less and wastes more of the energy, either the steel(or aluminum) or synthetic will get the job done better as regards splitting wood, transferring the energy from striking head to block to be split, given the factors of weight and speed of swing, etc being equal. Steel transfers any wasted energy shock bad, hence the addition of rubber or leather coverings, but the synthetics are both easier on the hands and also just work better in getting the work done, the energy gets transferred better. The wood is a scosh "softer" but, you have to swing aster and harder to get the same results, so that cancels that little advantage. The synthetics are the top choice out of the three options for the handles for both maintaining control and not suffering repetetive stress type injuries, and also for just getting it done. For repair or replace, well, yes, you can make your own handles, but why do that when you don't have to? Grins? it's not an advantage this side of societal collapse or living in the wilderness, due to "supply issues". Anything besides that, it's a negative. Nostalgia is cool, I respect that, but it isn't something that can be measured, it has no basis with productivity, so you can't call nostalgia as "better" once you get into the engineering basis.

So I will disagree with you on this point 100%. It may and does "feel" better to a lot of guys to have the wooden handles, this is because of the "anti vibration" effect they perceive (to a degree, some other factors but that is mostly it, along with just the "traditional' aspect) but they simply cannot perform the same as a more modern engineered metal or, the much better choice, the composite handle, which has less shock than the wood because of better energy transerrence to the target.. You get the best of both worlds with the composite, more transferred energy to the target, less shock waves into your hands/wrists/arms. Wood gives an appearance of less shock, but not really, it is more placebo nostalgia than not, and it suffers damage more readily.

Nor are the wooden handles as durable for the most part, again easily proven with the warranties and with all of us here in real world heavy (not casual/occassional) use. Wooden handles just break a lot more often, and that's just it..it's just reality, I've broken a lot before. I would be HARD pressed to break a fiskars handle. And fiskars is certainly aware of the "wood" option, they would use it if it was better/performed better/cheaper. They do not. They aren't amatuers. they are totally comfortable from a real world bean counter perspective to offer lifetime full replacement warrenty. Because their stuff works so much better, that's why, they simply know they aren't going to be getting back near as many with their design as if they used a wooden handled whatever.

If wooden handles would last, or perform as well or better, they all would be warrantied for life, ususally..nope, you just have to go buy a replacement handle from company x.yz even these high priced examples talked about around here. (some exceptions, but for the most part..handles are sold as-is, take yer chances and they are expected to break and need replacing a lot if used heavily)

Although having the ability to relatively easily make your own handles is spiffy cool neato with wood. I have both, wood is now tier two based on a lot of use. It is emergency backup.

I have much less "beef" with my body because of my size and stature compared to most guys to use and therefore less overall grunt than a lot of guys, that's just reality and I have learned to deal with it over the years doing similar outdoor and blue collar employment type physical tasks. I've had to learn to the do the same dang job as guys twice my weight like forever. Thereore, I have always had to learn better technique and proper tool use over just grunting harder, PLUS, be on the ball and be paying attention to the market and grab a better tool when it showed up. It REALLY shows up for me how much better an advanced design and sythentic axe like a fiskars is compared to a random similar sized and weight chunk of steel on a wooden stick is, especially at their price point. Extensive experience with both. Simply no comparison in real world use, hmm..keeping it closer on topic around here, like comparing a stock some size clogged up homerenters saw with a same displacement and close enough similar weight modded and opened up pro saw. It's silly to even debate it. Both will cut wood, sure, one is just hands down much faster with less operator fatigue, etc. Same as in hand splitting.
 
Sorry zogger, but you are the one who is wrong.
A moving striking tool has x-amount of energy (mass and velocity), given the same weight, velocity and hand grip tension, the one that rebounds the most uses has transferred more of the energy into the rebound… it-is-what-it-is.

Your comparison to baseball bats and tennis rackets is not apples-to-apples. Metal (aluminum) baseball bats are hollow in the striking area, the handle and striking area are one-piece, and because of the huge difference in weight a player can generate a lot more speed with it. The metal (again, hollow aluminum) part of a tennis racket is simply the frame for a flexible (spring-like) striking area, and the lighter weight allows the player to generate a lot more speed with the racket.

You are correct about the lighter/faster/stronger part, but not about the recoil part… everything is a trade-off. What works with sports gear striking relatively light-weight balls ain’t the same with striking tools … not apples-to-apples.
 
He's got a point those bats are so effective simply because they are elastic and that elasticity is what causes them to be so much more effective. That same elasticity is what causes them to loose more of your power when swinging an axe to bust a round of wood.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxI3svB_O44

Watch this video it explains it very well at about 1:10.
 
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Wow, can't you all just split wood... I Know my personal experience has proven the fiskars is far superior to any splitting implement I've ever used, but if you want to whack something with a wood handle then go for it.
 
Im too lazy to read all the posts but if you want a real hatchet/camp size axe, save up the money or sell a kid if you have one and get a gransfors bruks. You wont be disappointed. Period.
 
I have several wood handles, all of which were broken off axes, shovels, and rakes. They make great walking sticks or something to keep around if someone gets unruly! :msp_scared:

I do have a wood handled axe that has survived me to date, but it receives little use other than stump removal since it's just a regular axe and not a splitting axe. I did recently put a wood handle back on my old pick axe but only because I couldn't find a composite or fiberglass handle to fit. N no mauls, they're too heavy for me!

My actual preference is something light weight that will do the job I need it for, multi purpose is even better, but will also needs to last more than a few uses. As I stated in an earlier post, that's only because I'm rough on the equipment.

The "True Temper 4# splitting axe" did the pile on the right of the picture. The Fiskars X27 did the pile on the left. (a work in progress)

View attachment 265705
 
Actually I like fiberglass handles on “garden” tools like shovels, spades and hoes, but it doesn’t matter what handle they put on a rake; just seems nobody can make a rake that fits my hands… they all just slide right through my grip :D

I’ve broken several wooden handles on shovels and spades (normally ash handles); mostly because I’m using them for something they were never designed to do... such as prying on roots and such. I’ve only broken one hickory handle on a striking tool, a 13 ounce carpenters hammer while trying to pull a 20p pole-barn nail (not very bright on my part). Admittedly I do have to replace hickory handles on striking tools every 5-10 years, depending on the tool. Not because I break them, more because they eventually “wear-out” (for lack of a better term)… they tend to get “dry” and “open-up” along the grain, which causes vibration to travel through the handle, increasing rebound, and increasing the likelihood of splinters. I’ve had my 8# splitting maul for over 30 years, I’ve replaced the handle twice… but I’ve never broken it.

By-the-way, a top-grade, defect-free hickory handle will last 2 or 3 times as long as a lesser grade. Also, a hickory handle with defects, knots, irregular grain, and whatnot will transfer more vibration to the hands and increase rebound. Like the preacher said… “Nothin’ like a good piece of hickory.
 
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