What a piece of crap

[Justsaws]

For those of you that are breaking long wood handled striking tools:

If you were to take a sheet of copper and wrap the handle end as snug as as possible by hand with the copper strip over lapping like a paper roll at least 4 times it will create a dead blow effect on that area of the hammer handle when impacted. After wrapping snug it in place with you favorite type of tape. The more wraps the better the effect.

Copper flashing will work with as many wraps as you can get. Aluminum flashing will work as well, does not hold up as well. If you are old school then pour some lead sheet and cover it with a round of copper, that actually works the best but people get a little nuts about lead these days.


The rubber protectors work well but can lead to bounce injuries especially when used on a long handled striker that is too short for the user. I do not use wire as I have seen the wire cut into the wood handle.

 

[lone wolf]

The OP says he did this beating the head out of the wood AFTER it broke.

A miss is a miss by any other name.

 

[aarolar]

A miss is a miss by any other name.

I didn't miss Mr. I hit exactly what I was aiming at all three swings...

 

[lone wolf]

I didn't miss Mr. I hit exactly what I was aiming at all three swings...

Why the dents in the handle ?:msp_thumbup::msp_confused:

 

[aarolar]

That is where I used what was left of the handle to beat the head out of the piece of wood it was buried halfway into. You should really not be so quick to assume such because you just made an ass of yourself...

We have burned wood for 15 years now and I just got a hydraulic splitter this year I have split MANY a cord of wood with a wood handle axe and maul and I will admit I do miss but not very often. I can put the axe in the same hole pretty much every swing of the head...

Just a refresher I know its been a couple days and many posts since it was covered.

 

[Gologit]

Why the dents in the handle ?:msp_thumbup::msp_confused:

LW...this has already been settled. Read the whole thread and you'll see. Thanks.

 

[elmoleaf]

I'm with Zogger on this one. I'll take data any day over a link to one company's marketing material (given how many more wood handle models they offer than fiberglass, perhaps their volume and profit comes from wood and fiberglass is just offered to appease some customers..thus they push the value of wood?).

A drawback of wood perhaps not mentioned yet: it often contains hidden defects and inconsistent grain....it can have unpredictable performance from one piece to the next. At least in the structural world, that's one reason why many wood members now being used are "engineered" lumber versus sawn lumber (aside from weight, cost, sawn availability etc.). The "engineered" material gives predictable repeatable performance.

For me, I use my wood handled tools (sledge hammer, axe) relatively seldom, so high performance isn't critical. If my livelihood depending on using such a tool all day however, I'd be looking for a commercial grade high performance version...so probably something synthetic for the handle. However, most of my tools are salvaged reclamation projects...yardsale, found with metal detector, etc.(rake, hatchet, mattock, etc). I just make wood handles for those. If they break, I just make another.

 

[milkman]

Everybody knows that you're not supposed to hit an anvil with a hammer, keep it up and all our new anvils will have safety stickers all over them, just like ladders.

 

[Justsaws]

Everybody knows that you're not supposed to hit an anvil with a hammer, keep it up and all our new anvils will have safety stickers all over them, just like ladders.

They already have warning stickers for awhile now, and HUGE price tags to match.

 

[Whitespider]

Everybody knows that you're not supposed to hit an anvil with a hammer...

Really?? But it's OK to lay a third piece of steel on the anvil and strike it with a hammer??

 

[milkman]

Yep, the first rule in CARE and MAINTENANCE of a NEW or OLD ANVIL
1. It is not prudent to hit the face of an anvil directly with a hammer. This is particularly important regarding anvil edges and the tips of horns. The goal is to keep hot iron between the anvil and your hammer.

 

[mountainmandan]

I just want to say I have had terrible luck getting a decent wood handle cheap, and since I am cheap, I have made handles for my maul, framing hammer, finish hammer, and rigging ax. I like doing it and it is the only way I am going to get one cheap. I use my fiskers a lot too. But also enjoy swinging a quality wood handle. I can not tell you in rational words, it might just be in my head.

Dan

 

[Whitespider]

I just want to say I have had terrible luck getting a decent wood handle cheap...

LOL
The most expensive tool you'll ever buy is a cheap tool... and that includes the tool handle.

You are correct, a decent hickory handle does not come cheap.

 

[mountainmandan]

Getting good tools, cheap, almost never happens, but I do have some good tools that I did not spend much on, so it is possible.

Dan

 

[Whitespider]

I'm with Zogger on this one. I'll take data any day over a link to one company's marketing material...
If my livelihood depending on using such a tool all day however, I'd be looking for a commercial grade high performance version...so probably something synthetic for the handle.

OK... so where is this "data" you need supporting your choice of a synthetic handle??
Where is this "data" you need supporting your belief that a "commercial grade high performance version" means a synthetic handle??

So what you’re saying is, without “data” the synthetic has to be the better choice?? Why??
Why do you need “data” to believe one is a better choice, but you don’t need “data” for the other??
That’s sort’a hypocritical… don’t ya’ think??

If you need data why not do your own tests… like I said in and earlier post…
Take three 16 oz hammers, one with a steel handle, one with a synthetic handle, one with a hickory handle and strike an anvil with them. Try to keep grip tension and swinging force as close to the same as possible for all three, and see which bounces higher off the anvil. The hammer with the hickory handle will bounce dramatically less. The more bounce, the more energy transferred into recoil and handle vibration… the more energy transferred into recoil and vibration, the less energy applied to the object being struck. To overcome this disadvantage with steel and synthetic you must grip tighter and swing harder. Using a hickory handle, if all else remains equal, you will expend less energy to accomplish the same amount of work.

And if you want to verify which handle transfers energy more efficiently… lay a 2x4 on edge, on a concrete floor and strike the end with all three hammers. Again, try to keep grip tension and swinging force as close to the same as possible for all three, and see which moves the board the farthest across the floor. Even better, if you have it, strike something like a 20# lead weight across the floor.

Another test would be to make a teeter-totter with a board and place a baseball on one end… strike the other end with all three hammers. Once again, try to keep grip tension and swinging force as close to the same as possible for all three, and see which sends the baseball higher into the air.

I do believe those tests will be a real eye-opener for you.

 

[old cookie]

I got a sledgehammer I have had sence 1980 or so.Well i am cutting wood on my bosses place, his two grandsons come down and want to help.They want to split wood. I say no that is ok i will get it.No thet got to help,he grabs my hammer and wedges, 3 peaces later he misses wedge brakes handle.I had never put a handle in it,the head is all mushroomed .It now has a new handle in it, but it just aint the same.

 

[brenndatomu]

OK... so where is this "data" you need supporting your choice of a synthetic handle??
Where is this "data" you need supporting your belief that a "commercial grade high performance version" means a synthetic handle??

So what you’re saying is, without “data” the synthetic has to be the better choice?? Why??
Why do you need “data” to believe one is a better choice, but you don’t need “data” for the other??
That’s sort’a hypocritical… don’t ya’ think??

If you need data why not do your own tests… like I said in and earlier post…
Take three 16 oz hammers, one with a steel handle, one with a synthetic handle, one with a hickory handle and strike an anvil with them. Try to keep grip tension and swinging force as close to the same as possible for all three, and see which bounces higher off the anvil. The hammer with the hickory handle will bounce dramatically less. The more bounce, the more energy transferred into recoil and handle vibration… the more energy transferred into recoil and vibration, the less energy applied to the object being struck. To overcome this disadvantage with steel and synthetic you must grip tighter and swing harder. Using a hickory handle, if all else remains equal, you will expend less energy to accomplish the same amount of work.

And if you want to verify which handle transfers energy more efficiently… lay a 2x4 on edge, on a concrete floor and strike the end with all three hammers. Again, try to keep grip tension and swinging force as close to the same as possible for all three, and see which moves the board the farthest across the floor. Even better, if you have it, strike something like a 20# lead weight across the floor.

Another test would be to make a teeter-totter with a board and place a baseball on one end… strike the other end with all three hammers. Once again, try to keep grip tension and swinging force as close to the same as possible for all three, and see which sends the baseball higher into the air.

I do believe those tests will be a real eye-opener for you.

All right guys, enough already! Spidey has obviously has done his homework. I doubt any of the rest of ya'll have spent much time testing tool handles in YOUR basement!?!

On a side note, that last test sounds like the ole ring-the-bell game at the carnival. My brother can ring it every hit, heck, usually, after the first day, when has has already gotten stuffies for all the nieces, they won't let him play anymore! Now me, they like taking my money, bro has tried to tell me the "trick," still doesn't work. Oh well :msp_rolleyes:
Come to think of it, don't their big hammers usually have wood handles?

 

[GrassGuerilla]

I can hardly believe I read this whole thread... To each his own eh? I've found cheap wood handles (hickory or ash) aren't remotely equal. Often you'll go through several handles to find a "good" one. Some that look "good" break quite easily. Once you have a good one, Hickory seems to just "feel" better. I'm not claiming better energy transfer, actually to me it's probably more about a perceived lesser impact shock. Truth be told, I'm pretty sure most could benefit more from technique improvement rather than relatively small gains from better handles.

I tried this test some time back after picking up a Ridgid brand anti vibe hammer. Initially using it, it seemed ineffective compared to my old Hickory handled hammer. Holding the hammers in each hand smack them together (wearing safety glasses) I compared a whole bucket of hammers. Between the Ridgid anti vibe, a rubber coated steel Craftsman, a fiberglass Craftsman, an Estwing and an old Hickory handle. The clear winner (on terms of reduced impact and shock) was clearly the Hickory. And it wasn't even close. I was a little surprised that it beat out the modern anti-vibe design.

No need to tell me you should never hit two hammers together. Simplest way of directly comparing their properties.