What brand of 2 stroke oil are you using ?

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What brand of 2 stroke oil are you using ?

  • Echo Red Armour

    Votes: 4 10.8%
  • Stihl premium 2-stroke oil

    Votes: 4 10.8%
  • Motomaster 2 stroke oil

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Echo Power blend 2 stroke oil

    Votes: 1 2.7%
  • Trufuel 50:1

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Trufuel 40:1

    Votes: 1 2.7%
  • Stihl motomix

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 27 73.0%

  • Total voters
    37
  • Poll closed .
Redline.

Ester based 2 stroke oil is the best in the world. Everything else is sub par





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Engines below 50cc's Minimum fuel to oil ratio 20:1, currently breaking in a new handheld blower at 18:1 on Lubrication Engineers SAE 40 LE8104 (Dino oil). I also have on hand a pretty good stockpile of long discontinued Pennzoil Air Cooled (the real stuff, not the one with "Outdoor" on the label, if it says "Outdoor" it is not the same and not as good). Corrosion protection is an area significantly overlooked by many. You can have all the high-end ester based synthetics you want, the possibly slightly less wear you would get from them over a non-synthetic won't have been worth it if your engine internals develop rust, which is especially more of an issue in high humidity environments.

Engines 50cc and above, 25:1. I do have 2 different synthetics on hand (one virtually impossible to find anywhere now, Putoline MHX (SAE 50, 18cst @ 100c) and Mobil 1 Racing 2t). I don't know if their anti-rust capabilities are comparable to the aforementioned dino oils, although M1 Racing claims to be effective in this area despite being an ester.

No fouled plugs, no ooze dripping out of mufflers because I'm using oil that burns cleanly and more completely than a lot of the stuff out there.

Redline.

Ester based 2 stroke oil is the best in the world. Everything else is sub par

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/816353-redline-2-stroke-premix-oil/

"Redline: This was a strange oil. The piston and cylinder looked good, with minor shiny spots but no scuffing, and everything was reasonably clean and well-lubed. But this oil actually left surface rust on the crank wheels, and tarnished the carb brass. It also had a tendency to gum up the carb jets for some reason. How a metal surface can be both oily and have rust on it is beyond me, but clearly this oil lacks any proper corrosion-inhibitors, and it must have very high levels of esters that give it a strong hygroscopic effect. I would never use it again, nor could I recommend it."

"I will never ever use Redline again, for exactly the reasons you mention. It tarnishes the carb brass, clogs the jets if allowed to sit without being drained, and allows surface rust to form on the crank. I used it for an entire top-end life, and will never touch it again."

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2428749

"Redline Racing Oil, 2t, is a known rust/corrosion promoter. I lost a weedwacker due to massive internal rust, along with my Husqvarna 360WXC crankshaft. It was unbelievable, the rust and corrosion was everywhere and unstoppable. "

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2269303

"Redline makes some fantastic products. I use many of them regularly.

However, if you are talking about Redline Racing Oil (2t), that is not a product for the non racer. And especially not for lawn equipment.

It promotes corrosion of internal brass carb parts and does not prevent internal engine corrosion (remember, most 2 stroke oils do a great job of preventing internal engine corrosion). I actually had a ryobi fail on this stuff! Took it apart and guess what I found? RUST!

No disrespect intended but why do you run 34:1 when most companies recommend 50:1 or 40:1. From what I know in a high performance 2 stroke engine you would have a richer premix like you run. I run what the manufacturer recommends and really try to dial in the jetting. The way I figure it their must be a reason why the manufacturer recommends that premix ratio. :reading:
"manufacturer recommends"/"manufacturer recommendation". There is no such thing when it comes to fuel to oil ratios, and what I mean by that is this: they are ONLY "recommending" that because the EPA forced increasingly damaging emissions regulations on them over the past several decades. A Husqvarna chainsaw sold in the US will "recommend" 50:1, whereas in Australia where the EPA has no jurisdiction, the same saw will cite 25:1 (double the amount of oil) to even be covered under warranty.
 
Engines below 50cc's Minimum fuel to oil ratio 20:1, currently breaking in a new handheld blower at 18:1 on Lubrication Engineers SAE 40 LE8104 (Dino oil). I also have on hand a pretty good stockpile of long discontinued Pennzoil Air Cooled (the real stuff, not the one with "Outdoor" on the label, if it says "Outdoor" it is not the same and not as good). Corrosion protection is an area significantly overlooked by many. You can have all the high-end ester based synthetics you want, the possibly slightly less wear you would get from them over a non-synthetic won't have been worth it if your engine internals develop rust, which is especially more of an issue in high humidity environments.

Engines 50cc and above, 25:1. I do have 2 different synthetics on hand (one virtually impossible to find anywhere now, Putoline MHX (SAE 50, 18cst @ 100c) and Mobil 1 Racing 2t). I don't know if their anti-rust capabilities are comparable to the aforementioned dino oils, although M1 Racing claims to be effective in this area despite being an ester.

No fouled plugs, no ooze dripping out of mufflers because I'm using oil that burns cleanly and more completely than a lot of the stuff out there.


https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/816353-redline-2-stroke-premix-oil/

"Redline: This was a strange oil. The piston and cylinder looked good, with minor shiny spots but no scuffing, and everything was reasonably clean and well-lubed. But this oil actually left surface rust on the crank wheels, and tarnished the carb brass. It also had a tendency to gum up the carb jets for some reason. How a metal surface can be both oily and have rust on it is beyond me, but clearly this oil lacks any proper corrosion-inhibitors, and it must have very high levels of esters that give it a strong hygroscopic effect. I would never use it again, nor could I recommend it."

"I will never ever use Redline again, for exactly the reasons you mention. It tarnishes the carb brass, clogs the jets if allowed to sit without being drained, and allows surface rust to form on the crank. I used it for an entire top-end life, and will never touch it again."

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2428749

"Redline Racing Oil, 2t, is a known rust/corrosion promoter. I lost a weedwacker due to massive internal rust, along with my Husqvarna 360WXC crankshaft. It was unbelievable, the rust and corrosion was everywhere and unstoppable. "

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2269303

"Redline makes some fantastic products. I use many of them regularly.

However, if you are talking about Redline Racing Oil (2t), that is not a product for the non racer. And especially not for lawn equipment.

It promotes corrosion of internal brass carb parts and does not prevent internal engine corrosion (remember, most 2 stroke oils do a great job of preventing internal engine corrosion). I actually had a ryobi fail on this stuff! Took it apart and guess what I found? RUST!


"manufacturer recommends"/"manufacturer recommendation". There is no such thing when it comes to fuel to oil ratios, and what I mean by that is this: they are ONLY "recommending" that because the EPA forced increasingly damaging emissions regulations on them over the past several decades. A Husqvarna chainsaw sold in the US will "recommend" 50:1, whereas in Australia where the EPA has no jurisdiction, the same saw will cite 25:1 (double the amount of oil) to even be covered under warranty.
:clap:
 
Well sure, there's a reason, or maybe several reasons, but what are they?

Better performance?
Longer lifespan?
Shorter lifespan?
Lower emissions?

The OEMs used to recommend higher ratios of oil, and there's testing numbers that indicate a 2-stroke will make more power the more oil you add, up to about 16:1. Adding a little more to a gallon of fuel doesn't really change your tune much, you're only changing the amount of fuel in the mix very little, but you can add some extra lube to the bottom end, which isn't a bad thing :).
I would guess the manufacturer would consider #4 & 3 in that order the for the recommendation of 50 or north mix ratio's
 
I use Stihl Ultra religiously @ 42:1 which is 3 oz to a gallon. I buy oil by the gallon to save money. And, I encourage everyone to run a synthetic oil whether it be Ultra or some other synthetic. Occasionally I run Klotz R50 just to enjoy the aroma......lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I use Stihl Ultra religiously @ 42:1 which is 3 oz to a gallon. I buy oil by the gallon to save money. And, I encourage everyone to run a synthetic oil whether it be Ultra or some other synthetic. Occasionally I run Klotz R50 just to enjoy the aroma......lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I hate that stuff. Smells godawful and gives me a headache. Ultra that is. Haven't run Klotz.
 
I don't even remember. I bought a case of something off the eBay last year. Was advertised on here. Have enough to make probably 200 gallons. I go through maybe 20-30 gallons a year.
 
BelRay MC1 or H1R or Marine HP
Quicksilver PWC 2 cycle (excellent)
 
Amsoil Saber Professional. Mixed at 3 oz per gallon. Mix ratio ends up right around 43:1.

I've used lots of different oil. The only one that ever caused issues was Quicksilver Premium outboard oil. It kept clogging the exhaust port of my leaf blower with hard, crusty carbon deposits. It runs fine in my liquid cooled snowmobile.
 
Motul 800 2T road racing at 40:1-50:1 depending on the saw.

Ester based[emoji847]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
Amsoil Saber Professional. Mixed at 3 oz per gallon. Mix ratio ends up right around 43:1.

I've used lots of different oil. The only one that ever caused issues was Quicksilver Premium outboard oil. It kept clogging the exhaust port of my leaf blower with hard, crusty carbon deposits. It runs fine in my liquid cooled snowmobile.

Might be because it’s an outboard oil meant to be run in lower rpm liquid cooled engines.

Same deal as when TCW3 was being used for a while and it is definitely not a good choice for air cooled high rpm two-stroke.




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
"manufacturer recommendation". There is no such thing when it comes to fuel to oil ratios, and what I mean by that is this: they are ONLY "recommending" that because the EPA forced increasingly damaging emissions regulations on them over the past several decades. A Husqvarna chainsaw sold in the US will "recommend" 50:1, whereas in Australia where the EPA has no jurisdiction, the same saw will cite 25:1 (double the amount of oil) to even be covered under warranty.
Firstly i agree with pretty much you whole post generally but the last paragraph may be your opinion & not fact. I live in Australia, we have an EPA as do most if not all 1st world countries. Husky here advises 50:1. Not sure the EPA enforces oil ratio recommendations on OEM's. Do you have any proof that they do?
 
My Wife got me a Hitachi gas leaf blower and in the manual it says the recommended mix ratio is 25:1 to 50:1. I'll just run the same mix that I've been using. Amsoil Saber at now 40:1 in ethanol free fuel since that gas station just up the road added an ethanol free pump. Now it's one gas can for everything I have.

L8R,
Matt
 
Firstly i agree with pretty much you whole post generally but the last paragraph may be your opinion & not fact. I live in Australia, we have an EPA as do most if not all 1st world countries. Husky here advises 50:1. Not sure the EPA enforces oil ratio recommendations on OEM's. Do you have any proof that they do?

The EPA does not enforce oil mix ratios. They do however set emissions levels. The manufacturers have to figure out how to balance power output, engine longevity, weight and many other things for a product. Oil mix ratio is taken into account when making these calculations.
 
The EPA does not enforce oil mix ratios. They do however set emissions levels. The manufacturers have to figure out how to balance power output, engine longevity, weight and many other things for a product. Oil mix ratio is taken into account when making these calculations.

BINGO!!!


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
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