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What chainsaw is best for my needs? Husqvarna preferably

foeke

foeke

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What is the general concensus about not buying the highest end but the less powerfull version on the same platform? So you probably won't get the profesionally used ones?
Like the 353,359,545,555 etc?
 
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Bob Hedgecutter

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What is the general concensus about not buying the highest end but the less powerfull version on the same platform? So you probably won't get the profesionally used ones?
Like the 353,359,545,555 etc?
My own general consensus is that 1: NONE of those would have been a heavy use professionals saw where I live. And 2: would you rather own a saw that was in professional use run/maintained by someone who knew what they were doing because it was needed and expected to run perfectly whenever asked to do so- or a semi pro saw that was owned by a homeowner without a clue how to maintain it?
 
foeke

foeke

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That is exactly what I was wondering.
Being run almost every day for a couple of hours will wear a saw out within 3 years I would guess.
Mixing up the fillercaps, or even worse using baroil to replace 2stroke oil wears a saw out in a minute.
 

Pip

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I only have personal experience with the 353 and 266XP, from the saws you listed,
I Love ‘Em Both.

If you’re cutting Hardwood up to 20”, and a bit over on occasion, I would take a closer look at the 266XP, and consider 18” and 24” Bars for it.

I have had my 266XP for dayum near 30 years, and for about 25, it and a Husky Compact 23, Top Handle were all I had.
The 266XP has Plenty of Power, is Dead Reliable, and is manageable all Day long.


Doug
I'll keep an eye on this 266xp. It's on Facebook market place. It was the guys grandfather's and looks in nice condition. I do still fancy a 357xp though...
 

Pip

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The price someone is asking on an auction site and what a saw is actually worth- can be two totally different things.
A 357XP for 300 quid might be a steal if the saw is like new and has a good bar/chain combo- or it might be a lemon that has more problems than you can list, a worn out bar with a filed away chain.
That is the risk you take in the secondhand market where you are not picking the saw up in your hands and inspecting it before handing over your cash.
Ask lots of questions, expand and go over the photographs of the listing with a very critical eye, before hitting the buy now button.

Keep an eye on your local Facebook buy sell & exchange groups as well.

Best advice I can offer is to not be in a hurry, don't buy the first you see. True, you might miss a bargain, but you might get a basket case as well- might be a 357XP listed next week that looks better for 250 quid- or one where the lister admits it has a cooked top end for 50 quid, but the entire rest of the saw is good and still attached.......... then we get to talk you through adding a new top end to your own first saw!
Honestly, if I were you and found a complete Husqvarna powerhead in any of the models you list above and the seller admits it was straight fuelled, but it was cheap (say under 50 quid) I would grab it. You can buy a running saw as well to get you going right now, but putting a new top end on a saw model you mention to get it going again will teach you lots about saws and will be able to be sold as a running saw not a wreck..... if you do not fall in love with it!
Thanks man. A few of the saws are on Facebook market place or buy it now. I'll try not to just jump into anything. I'm rebuilding a quad bike at the moment so I'm quite mechanically minded lol. I'd love to get a saw for 50 quid and just have to do the top end haha, would be the dream.
Cheers
 
Bob Hedgecutter

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Thanks man. A few of the saws are on Facebook market place or buy it now. I'll try not to just jump into anything. I'm rebuilding a quad bike at the moment so I'm quite mechanically minded lol. I'd love to get a saw for 50 quid and just have to do the top end haha, would be the dream.
Cheers
They do come up, maybe not there this week...... but they crop up time to time- trouble is, they do not last long!
 
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Pip

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They do come up, maybe not there this week...... but they crop up time to time- trouble is, they do not last long!
Yeah I bet they get snatched up pretty quick. I'll keep an eye out. Think I'm gonna look for a 357xp upto a 266xp, that's around the size and power range I want and need.
 
Adam08ski

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Yeah I bet they get snatched up pretty quick. I'll keep an eye out. Think I'm gonna look for a 357xp upto a 266xp, that's around the size and power range I want and need.
Enjoy finding a clean all original 357 in the UK. Or a 346 for the that matter. I give up. I see so many 346's with farmertec non genuine cylinders pop up on eBay. I've all but given up on 2nd hand saws recently. Although not that anyone cares but I really want an old solo 639 that's on the bay.

If you want simple to work on like the 3 series huskies and dead reliable get a pro level Makita/dolmar 40-60cc new, ea4300 through ea6100. Won't cost much more than a clean second hand 357xp. I hate the UK used saw market. It's overpriced to say the least.

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foeke

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That was exactly my thought aswell.
The naming scheme of Dolkita is mental. But the equipment has a great value for money.
According to makita salespersons, the 4300 (dolmar is called 421 for some reason) and 5105 are professional and the 6100 is semi professional.
All great saws imho. The others are like the husky ranger range.
 
Adam08ski

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That was exactly my thought aswell.
The naming scheme of Dolkita is mental. But the equipment has a great value for money.
According to makita salespersons, the 4300 (dolmar is called 421 for some reason) and 5105 are professional and the 6100 is semi professional.
All great saws imho. The others are like the husky ranger range.
The 6100 I have is the same build,same quality feel as the 4300. Gobs of power. Less plasticity feeling than the Husky 545 I had, which was a good saw.
I also Don't get their semi pro/pro logic. But like all companies it will be marketing to push sales on saws that aren't moving I guess.

The 7910/7900/7300 all smoke a 372xp at a fraction of the price.
And the 9000/9010 is built stronger than any other 90cc saw out there. Pure tank.

And back to the op. I can't fault a 357 or 346 but I wouldn't trust one not to have non genuine parts on them now unless you are lucky to get one from a member on here.

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Pip

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And back to the op. I can't fault a 357 or 346 but I wouldn't trust one not to have non genuine parts on them now unless you are lucky to get one from a member on here.
How would I look out for genuine parts or not? Ask the seller questions such as what work has been done to the engine if any?
 
Adam08ski

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How would I look out for genuine parts or not? Ask the seller questions such as what work has been done to the engine if any?
I guess so. It's a minefield. If you set on a 357/9 then a dark grey cylinder will be a non genuine one. I think the 3 series saws all had the cc of the cylinder blue stamped on the tops. Although this you have probs rubbed off by now. I would ask to see the saw with the starter, clutch cover and top cover off. At the very least the clutch cover and top cover. If you find any adverts just take some screenshots and post them on here. There are a fair few on here with such a wealth of knowledge.

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foeke

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The 6100 I have is the same build,same quality feel as the 4300.
I know, I also had one. The only consequence of the semi pro label, is the price. More power than a 562xp (according to actual independent German tests), better fuel economy, same weight.
But quite a bit cheaper!
 
Whinbush

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I know, I also had one. The only consequence of the semi pro label, is the price. More power than a 562xp (according to actual independent German tests), better fuel economy, same weight.
But quite a bit cheaper!
I have Two EA 4300 Makitas, same saw as Dolmar 421,
I took the cat out of them, there is nothing non pro about them,
they have a full magnesium split case, not clamshell.
For their size they are excellent saws.

I had the Makita / Dolmar 6100 and 7900, they are all well made.
I would rather have a 6100 over the 562 Autotune any day,
as I can fix the 6100 myself, and when it’s tuned right it will never disappoint.
 
Lionsfan

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How would I look out for genuine parts or not? Ask the seller questions such as what work has been done to the engine if any?

You have to be realistic too. All the saws you're interested in have been out of production for at least ten years, a lot of them are going to be saws that someone put together from a box of used parts. Ask the seller questions, ask for lots of pics, take the gamble or politely say " I'm going to pass".
 
Adam08ski

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You have to be realistic too. All the saws you're interested in have been out of production for at least ten years, a lot of them are going to be saws that someone put together from a box of used parts. Ask the seller questions, ask for lots of pics, take the gamble or politely say " I'm going to pass".
I get the used parts. But I see a lot of cheap cylinders on these saws. All genuine parts are still available or meteor etc. You can tell a cheap cylinder/plastics a mile off, yet the sellers sell them as well looked after good running, original blah blah.

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Whinbush

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You have to be realistic too. All the saws you're interested in have been out of production for at least ten years, a lot of them are going to be saws that someone put together from a box of used parts. Ask the seller questions, ask for lots of pics, take the gamble or politely say " I'm going to pass".
I would move to a more up to date saw that has a good track record,
parts will be available for longer too, original and aftermarket.

If the Makita Dolmar saws were made by Husqvarna everyone would be saying
they are fantastic, have great power, last, are easy worked on and fuel efficient.

Don't let brand names get in the way of having a good saw at reasonable money.

My next saw will be the Makita EA 5600, and it’s not even magnesium,
neither were Oleo Mac and their offspring, and they have worked well for
40 years in that configuration.
The EA 5600 does however run very smooth, and parts will be available for some time to come.
It has No Autotune or Mtronic so I can fix it myself.
 
Lionsfan

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I would move to a more up to date saw that has a good track record,
parts will be available for longer too, original and aftermarket.

If the Makita Dolmar saws were made by Husqvarna everyone would be saying
they are fantastic, have great power, last, are easy worked on and fuel efficient.

Don't let brand names get in the way of having a good saw at reasonable money.

My next saw will be the Makita EA 5600, and it’s not even magnesium,
neither were Oleo Mac and their offspring, and they have worked well for
40 years in that configuration.
The EA 5600 does however run very smooth, and parts will be available for some time to come.
It has No Autotune or Mtronic so I can fix it myself.

I like Busch beer, Chevy trucks, model 70 Winchesters and Husqvarna saws. You can have the Dolmars and the craft beer, the other two items are negotiable depending on what's in my bank account.
 
Whinbush

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I like Busch beer, Chevy trucks, model 70 Winchesters and Husqvarna saws. You can have the Dolmars and the craft beer, the other two items are negotiable depending on what's in my bank account.
No problem @Lionsfan
I had me a new 372Xp, and a new Jonsered 2153, the last of the good ones in their size,
biggest mistake ever I sold them when the job I was doing was done.
Had I known the 550xp and 560xp shenanigans was coming I would have kept them,
but when I seen people pulling their hair out and loosing their hard earned money because
of the AT saw problems, I wasn’t going there.
 
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