What porting tools are you using?

[srcarr52]

This is a dental tool i also use when porting, can anybody guess what it is for ? (the phone is there only for you to see the size of the tool

Looks like a thickness transfer tool. An old school method of transferring a thickness out into an area where you can measure it with standard measuring tools.

Note you can also use the outside of the device in a similar manor.

 

[bonden]

Looks like a thickness transfer tool. An old school method of transferring a thickness out into an area where you can measure it with standard measuring tools.

Note you can also use the outside of the device in a similar manor.

That was fast .
I use it to measure the ports in the cylinder when grinding just to make sure i don't grind through the walls of the cylinder.

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

I've been looking for something like that so that I won't see the light of day when finger porting. I thought about fabbing one meself, but I should stick with a production one.

 

[mdavlee]

Chevy you might want to check with a welding supply for a pick gauge to check weld heights and undercut. It is a rectangular plate with a little arm and a scale on it. Here's the gauge I was talking about. I don't know if that is something you might want or not.
http://www.drillspot.com/products/976133/mathey_dearman_d254_steel_rule_depth_gauge?s=1

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

That's the ticket brother

I could probably modify it too by routing a slot on the arm so that's it's adjustable to measure the length of the finger port while still maintaining contact with the cylinder wall.

Gracias for the start bro. The stock 5100 I have now will sport true finger ports (much like the ones I've done) since I know I can go fairly deep

I'm fired up to see how it performs without porting the intake, less duration. And that tool you posted will assure an effective finger port.

 

[mdavlee]

Glad I could help you out.

 

[SawGarage]

That's the ticket brother

I could probably modify it too by routing a slot on the arm so that's it's adjustable to measure the length of the finger port while still maintaining contact with the cylinder wall.

Gracias for the start bro. The stock 5100 I have now will sport true finger ports (much like the ones I've done) since I know I can go fairly deep

I'm fired up to see how it performs without porting the intake, less duration. And that tool you posted will assure an effective finger port.

how about an outside caliper?? http://www.diracdelta.co.uk/science/source/c/a/caliper/source.html

I knew a guy on here who ported his 365 like that....:spam::monkey:

was that the exhaust side? your thoughts on performance over a full port-time, woods port, etc??

where did you get the ideas? I think it would work exceptionally as long as we could open up the intake and exhaust the required amount...thoughts??

J

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

I have treeslinger flapping his gums to thank

For laughing at the idea of a router being used to port a cylinder when I first walked into the AS SALOON. That got me to break down the 510 without even knowing what I was doing. I'm glad he got me fired up:greenchainsaw: I have to thank compadres Bob, Metals, and Big JJ during them tough days.

SG, it started in Coos Bay by an old timer. To drop big wood fast. JJ, correct me if I'm wrong.

Well, I've seen many finger porting pictures over at RS and the whoop ass mind boggling work of Dennis. But it's not until I got the chance to write to Tom Fales Jr, (knowing more about small 2 stroke motors compared to Mr. 500™ motors) that the road was paved down and started my addiction to finger ports. He shared a picture of his work with me and all I can say is I was blown away. The detail, the craftsmanship, or is it the workmanship...it was unreal. I was steered in the correct direction quicklike as to how they shoud look and work along with the degree to angle them...and I've never looked back. I'm sure not every jug is a candidate nor a requirement. But if the 7900 cylinder is like the 5100, it's ON. BTW, when Tom shared his work with all the talk smacker's over there, the room fell silent with awe

I'm not claiming a fast one, other that a good worksaw that I build for myself and I'm learning more and more towards a fast one someday.

Meanwhile, I'll leave that joint up to Tom and the rest of them fast ones™ that are in his league because fast chains are required!

I can't speak as to what the performance gains are other that a maintained rpm in the cut and a fast spool up. It's a given they introduce more charge into the equation. And I have to imagine they help in scavenging.

Here's hometown Frank running my first ported 5100 motor on pipe. This is where the fingers kick some culo big time I haven't tried the deeper fingers with the pipe yet. I'll try in the Fall sometime.

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ieKTORoXXqY?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ieKTORoXXqY?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

SG, it's a challenge to port them, but they are rewarding. The only downfall I can see, is that if you don't clean up and smooth out the edges all along the length, it'll scratch the piston like any other port job, but the only deal here is that you are working with a lot more area on the piston to get fudged up

Tom's Poulan's off the limter sound of that motor still haunts me to this day. No decking was required That's what I call...FLOW

 

[BloodOnTheIce]

My 1997 GMC Sonoma is the only porting tool I need. I put the saw in the truck drive for a bit drop the saw off, I get a call some time later get in the tuck and go pick up my ported saw. So yes my truck is the only tool I need for porting.
Besides a snowblower pull handle and yellow electric tape.

:greenchainsaw:

 

[SawGarage]

For laughing at the idea of a router being used to port a cylinder when I first walked into the AS SALOON. That got me to break down the 510 without even knowing what I was doing. I'm glad he got me fired up:greenchainsaw: I have to thank compadres Bob, Metals, and Big JJ during them tough days.

SG, it started in Coos Bay by an old timer. To drop big wood fast. JJ, correct me if I'm wrong.

Well, I've seen many finger porting pictures over at RS and the whoop ass mind boggling work of Dennis. But it's not until I got the chance to write to Tom Fales Jr, (knowing more about small 2 stroke motors compared to Mr. 500™ motors) that the road was paved down and started my addiction to finger ports. He shared a picture of his work with me and all I can say is I was blown away. The detail, the craftsmanship, or is it the workmanship...it was unreal. I was steered in the correct direction quicklike as to how they shoud look and work along with the degree to angle them...and I've never looked back. I'm sure not every jug is a candidate nor a requirement. But if the 7900 cylinder is like the 5100, it's ON. BTW, when Tom shared his work with all the talk smacker's over there, the room fell silent with awe

I'm not claiming a fast one, other that a good worksaw that I build for myself and I'm learning more and more towards a fast one someday.

Meanwhile, I'll leave that joint up to Tom and the rest of them fast ones™ that are in his league because fast chains are required!

I can't speak as to what the performance gains are other that a maintained rpm in the cut and a fast spool up. It's a given they introduce more charge into the equation. And I have to imagine they help in scavenging.

Here's hometown Frank running my first ported 5100 motor on pipe. This is where the fingers kick some culo big time I haven't tried the deeper fingers with the pipe yet. I'll try in the Fall sometime.

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ieKTORoXXqY?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ieKTORoXXqY?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

SG, it's a challenge to port them, but they are rewarding. The only downfall I can see, is that if you don't clean up and smooth out the edges all along the length, it'll scratch the piston like any other port job, but the only deal here is that you are working with a lot more area on the piston to get fudged up

Tom's Poulan's off the limter sound of that motor still haunts me to this day. No decking was required That's what I call...FLOW

LOL...so you put the 7900 top end in the 5100 :spam: :monkey: lol...

pictures! i require some pics!!

finger ports, boost ports, etc have been in the high performance 2 stroke (dirtbike, quad, etc) world forever..

so, putting a chamfer on the edges of the finger is obvious... or else, the alum, and/or NiSi will cause issues... course, paying attention to the ring ends would be a concern too....

J

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

ON was it back in the day!!!!

SG, you don't remember ON, the cable company

 

[SawGarage]

lol...

It's ON, like Donkey Kong!

I was joking...but didn't realize it would get taken outta context...lol.

I meant the 5100 was so fast it was like a 7900!! So was poking fun at it being a 5100 with a 7900 topend lol.


on the router, I saw some pics a while ago...what was that used for?? (ya know...the memory thing...)


I thought the reason a closed port was better than an open port was the higher pressurized charge when the x-fer port opened...if that's the case, wouldn't the finger port negate that??

maybe I have more reading to do....

 

[iowa]

I pulled up this old thread because I have a question. I'm in the middle of porting my 5105 and have it all done but the upper transfers. I was looking into buying a 90deg pencil grinder. However the dimensions of the head are huge. Well, it won't fit in my 45mm jug.

So my question is this. So they make a 90 deg air tool small enough? Or is the cc specialty tool the best to get? If it is. I just need the 90deg cc tool and drive motor. What motor would work with it? What would I all need. I noticed they sell a kit on cc website for like $650. But I don't need the straight cutter as I have a pencil grinder already. Thanks!

 

[ncfarmboy]

I read a thread somewhere about 90* tools they had just bought. Can't remember where but they were asking opinion on Mac tools 90* air tool kit. It looked like it would fit in small cyls. Was $200 if I hadn't bought a CC 182MC a couple of mo. ago I probably would have bought the Mac. Thought I had saved it but didn't. Went to Mac finally found it:
Mac Tools Online Store - 90° Angle Head Pencil Die Grinder Kit
Shep

 

[iowa]

I wish they had dimensions on their website. I got dimensions on a dotco 90deg grinder and the length of Tue head was 1.75". That's too long to fit into a 45 mm jug.

This looks to be about the same size.

 

[Mastermind]

I pulled up this old thread because I have a question. I'm in the middle of porting my 5105 and have it all done but the upper transfers. I was looking into buying a 90deg pencil grinder. However the dimensions of the head are huge. Well, it won't fit in my 45mm jug.

So my question is this. So they make a 90 deg air tool small enough? Or is the cc specialty tool the best to get? If it is. I just need the 90deg cc tool and drive motor. What motor would work with it? What would I all need. I noticed they sell a kit on cc website for like $650. But I don't need the straight cutter as I have a pencil grinder already. Thanks!

You can use dental tools.......they don't last and really aren't worth the trouble though. CC is the only good option I've found.

 

[dozerdan]

I wish they had dimensions on their website. I got dimensions on a dotco 90deg grinder and the length of Tue head was 1.75". That's too long to fit into a 45 mm jug.

This looks to be about the same size.

I have a dotco. If you cut your burrs off as short as you can it will fit in a 50MM bore. My local garage has a snap on one and it is no smaller. I think the mac is the same size as the snap on, they are both imports. The dotco is built here and has no equal. The dotco will cost you double the price of the Mac.

Later
Dan

 

[iowa]

I have a dotco. If you cut your burrs off as short as you can it will fit in a 50MM bore. My local garage has a snap on one and it is no smaller. I think the mac is the same size as the snap on, they are both imports. The dotco is built here and has no equal. The dotco will cost you double the price of the Mac.

Later
Dan

Yes. I had my eye on a dotco that's listed on eBay right now. I asked him for dimensions and he took pics with a ruler next to it. The head measures 1.75" long. That's about what 45 mm is. So this won't work. Guess I need to look for a cc specialty tool.

If I bought just the tool from them. What would be the best motor to run it that wouldn't break the bank?

 

[dozerdan]

You can use dental tools.......they don't last and really aren't worth the trouble though. CC is the only good option I've found.

Not altogether true.

If you are talking about the air driven dental drills I will agree with you, they have no torque, turn about a million rpms, you need a super dry air supply and they wont take the constant side pressure you put on them. If you use the slower old belt driven dental drills they work great. My first right angled hand-piece lasted my over 5 years. I am sure that hand-piece has been in more cylinders then you have. I am still using my second one but I have a new one just in case is dies.

I also have a dental light above my work bench. It works great. I wish I had room for the dentist chain. I think it would be great for carb work. They have that nice little tray and an easy reach air hose.

Do a search on feebay for emesco you will find the belt driven drills. Dental burrs are HSS and will work fine on the cylinders.

Later
Dan

 

[dozerdan]

Yes. I had my eye on a dotco that's listed on eBay right now. I asked him for dimensions and he took pics with a ruler next to it. The head measures 1.75" long. That's about what 45 mm is. So this won't work. Guess I need to look for a cc specialty tool.

If I bought just the tool from them. What would be the best motor to run it that wouldn't break the bank?

Here is a link to an emesco with the right angle hand-piece.

If you buy the lot I could use an extra foot pedal.

Emesco Hand Peices | eBay

Later
Dan