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What Saw's On The Kitchen Island Today

chipper1

chipper1

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Thanks, I think perhaps this guy will be back because the chain looked like it had been through rocks a couple of times and he looked kinda hopefully at me when he asked "can you fix this" :D
Even though; it was a breeze to do the whole routine on this one compared to just touch up that harvester chain, everything on it was just... bigger. Charged 5 and got 10 with a smile on that one.
Did you at least get to take the 2252 out for a spin, you know to make sure the rakers are set just right:chainsaw:, or didn't he want the rakers done lol.
Have to make sure you do multiple trips around the loop taking off what you can without bluing the cutters. I use a large green or blue sharpie to mark the cutter I start on and the cutters that will need to be ground more, then I grind the ones that are a little shorter after I finish both sides of the chain, if the rakers. Because I do the rakers on my grinder(what are you using) I will mark the rakers on the shorter cutters and hut those with a file if I took more than around .020" off a cutter, if not I leave them and they catch up eventually.
I got the foot pedal for the Stihl USG hooked up today, look forward to trying that out soon.
 
buttercup

buttercup

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Did you at least get to take the 2252 out for a spin, you know to make sure the rakers are set just right:chainsaw:, or didn't he want the rakers done lol.
Have to make sure you do multiple trips around the loop taking off what you can without bluing the cutters. I use a large green or blue sharpie to mark the cutter I start on and the cutters that will need to be ground more, then I grind the ones that are a little shorter after I finish both sides of the chain, if the rakers. Because I do the rakers on my grinder(what are you using) I will mark the rakers on the shorter cutters and hut those with a file if I took more than around .020" off a cutter, if not I leave them and they catch up eventually.
I got the foot pedal for the Stihl USG hooked up today, look forward to trying that out soon.
That's some good experience shared thanks kind sir.

I use a red, blue and green marker. On the 2252 I needed to do the rakers and I have used a thick grinding wheel and shaped it, since it was on it's life end I also have a small but thick (1/8) grinding wheel on my mini drill that I have shaped like a curved "Y" to take care of the very front edge of the rakers.
I haven't taken the 2252 for a spin but I could do that tomorrow, nice weather predicted too - you think that would be appropriate to do as a "professional" sharpener :baba:

Foot pedal is the way to go, I would need to make one myself for mine but I might have to do that. looking forwards for your reports on that!
 
president

president

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Not that cheap, nice score. Did you get anything else from him?
Would you care to sell a couple wheels.
How do you like the foot pedal.
Like the foot pedal,put a return spring between the clamping arm and it helps
to force the vice to tighten up when pressure is off the pedal
I would be willing to sell some new cbn wheels.They were made by L&M sharpening
out of Minnesota.( larry is the owner ,and has been in the business many years
Lll of the wheels are steel bound with cbn
135,00 each shipped.
 
NIP Group
president

president

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Did you at least get to take the 2252 out for a spin, you know to make sure the rakers are set just right:chainsaw:, or didn't he want the rakers done lol.
Have to make sure you do multiple trips around the loop taking off what you can without bluing the cutters. I use a large green or blue sharpie to mark the cutter I start on and the cutters that will need to be ground more, then I grind the ones that are a little shorter after I finish both sides of the chain, if the rakers. Because I do the rakers on my grinder(what are you using) I will mark the rakers on the shorter cutters and hut those with a file if I took more than around .020" off a cutter, if not I leave them and they catch up eventually.
I got the foot pedal for the Stihl USG hooked up today, look forward to trying that out soon.
What does the foot pedal cost ,mine was with the grinder
 
chipper1

chipper1

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What does the foot pedal cost ,mine was with the grinder
I found one on Ebay that was an OBO deal for 67 delivered. From what they were saying in the one thread it was 60 a couple yrs ago and I had a buddy check and I could get one through him for 60, but then I'd have to pay shipping.
If I couldn't have gotten one I would have sold the grinder, I like the Tecomec super jolly I have.
Like the foot pedal,put a return spring between the clamping arm and it helps
to force the vice to tighten up when pressure is off the pedal
I would be willing to sell some new cbn wheels.They were made by L&M sharpening
out of Minnesota.( larry is the owner ,and has been in the business many years
Lll of the wheels are steel bound with cbn
135,00 each shipped.
There are a series of small springs that look like washers on mine, does yours have them?, they are on the bolt that goes thru the clamp.
I adjusted the nut on the front(the one that attaches to the bolt where the handle to tighten it used to be) until it would hold it on it's own tightly. I adjusted it so it was clamping nice and tight on 050 chain and I barely have to touch the pedal to release it, then I loosened the cable to let the pedal go down as much as possible so its very low to the ground and it works great with little effort. I need to make sure it works as well with 063, but I think it will release enough which is the only adjustment I'd need to make as I know it will clamp down on it hard enough since it already holds the 050.
I would be interested, but not for that price. Familiar with the company name. I know how to make the others work well and I don't sharpen much other than for myself.
 
buttercup

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Well, not to interrupt the discussion, I realize I cant make a pedal for any hydraulic clamp.

But I can make an rpm adjustable foot pedal for the motor, could that be useful too?
 
chipper1

chipper1

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That's some good experience shared thanks kind sir.

I use a red, blue and green marker. On the 2252 I needed to do the rakers and I have used a thick grinding wheel and shaped it, since it was on it's life end I also have a small but thick (1/8) grinding wheel on my mini drill that I have shaped like a curved "Y" to take care of the very front edge of the rakers.
I haven't taken the 2252 for a spin but I could do that tomorrow, nice weather predicted too - you think that would be appropriate to do as a "professional" sharpener :baba:

Foot pedal is the way to go, I would need to make one myself for mine but I might have to do that. looking forwards for your reports on that!
Welcome:cheers:.
When I use my Tecomec grinder that I leave set up for rakers I just tilt the head a bit to hit the rakers/safety ramps. When I do them if I need to remove a lot of material, such as on a chain that was damaged and the cutters needed to be taken back a good bit, I will do a few different passes so I don't harden the rakers. Once you've tried to file a hardened raker you don't want to ever do that again :dumb:.

Pretty sure it's not only appropriate, but a necessity:chainsaw:.

I'm not sure if you could handle making something so complex o_O:lol:. For those who don't know Mr. Buttercup is quite talented at fab work :yes:.
 
chipper1

chipper1

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Well, not to interrupt the discussion, I realize I cant make a pedal for any hydraulic clamp.

But I can make an rpm adjustable foot pedal for the motor, could that be useful too?
Why not, just use a motorcycle brake or clutch master cylinder to run the slave cylinder on the clamp ;). Replace the handle with a lever to act as the foot pedal and make a stand for the master cylinder.

Not sure how effective that would be unless your motor has enough power to run at a lower rpm.
I think your time would be better spent installing different switch to allow you to run the motor in different directions so you're not leaving a burr on the tooth.
 
buttercup

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Ahh, lots to thinkering about. I think I''ll pass on the hydraulics but the motor in different directions would be awesome. Not sure if that is fisable though unless DC voltage.
My 220 volts vinch goes both ways though...
I have a brother who's an expert on electronics and whats capable, no doubt I will develop some ideas at least through this season. Watch this space:chop:
Just needs to make sure it fits on my kitchen "island" and contains the word "saw":rolleyes:
 
chipper1

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Ahh, lots to thinkering about. I think I''ll pass on the hydraulics but the motor in different directions would be awesome. Not sure if that is fisable though unless DC voltage.
My 220 volts vinch goes both ways though...
I have a brother who's an expert on electronics and whats capable, no doubt I will develop some ideas at least through this season. Watch this space:chop:
Just needs to make sure it fits on my kitchen "island" and contains the word "saw":rolleyes:
Pretty sure you could handle it.

Here's a link.
Just know there are a couple safety concerns involved, they are all talked about in the link.
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...chain-grinder-for-cw-and-ccw-rotation.255986/
 
chipper1

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IIRC Dennis Kirk used to sell those in multiple colors. Could pick up orange or red to match your saws.
I only have one on my ported 440, totally not needed on there as once you overcome the pop she fires easy even with the decomp plugged.
I snagged this up for a friend who had a hard time starting his saw the other day, told me it ripped the handle out of his hand because its very high compression, its an ms290 lol. He is 70 yrs old though so that must be taken into account :). I let him try to pull the 440 over and he could almost get it, so I'm hoping this will be a good fix for him, if not I'll find him an easy start saw of an appropriate size.
I sure hope when I'm that age I can still run a saw.
 

svk

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I laugh a little when people say saws are hard to start.

Hard starting to me is trying to start an Arctic Cat ZRT 800 or Thundercat from the 90's in subzero weather. Every pull had to be like your life depended on it. If you didn't commit to the pull it would rip the D handle out of both hands when it hit the first compression cycle!
 
chipper1

chipper1

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I laugh a little when people say saws are hard to start.

Hard starting to me is trying to start an Arctic Cat ZRT 800 or Thundercat from the 90's in subzero weather. Every pull had to be like your life depended on it. If you didn't commit to the pull it would rip the D handle out of both hands when it hit the first compression cycle!
Much like kicking some of the bikes I've had over, you better mean it or you'll wish you hadn't even tried.
So much is about technique. Just told my buddy the handle was here a bit ago and he said he fired it right up no problem today. I took a bit of time to show him how to drop the saw(yes safety guys :crazy2: )as he was pulling up and he seems to have it down now. The d handle will give him a bit more confidence that the handle won't rip out of his hands again :surprised3:.
 

svk

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Much like kicking some of the bikes I've had over, you better mean it or you'll wish you hadn't even tried.
So much is about technique. Just told my buddy the handle was here a bit ago and he said he fired it right up no problem today. I took a bit of time to show him how to drop the saw(yes safety guys :crazy2: )as he was pulling up and he seems to have it down now. The d handle will give him a bit more confidence that the handle won't rip out of his hands again :surprised3:.
My shop teacher in HS had an old Harley that he would bring in once a year. I remember him trying to kick that thing over, too every ounce of his body weight to get it to fire.
 
Huskybill

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On the kitchen iland today was the husky 350 crankcase, cylinder. We’re ready to start assembly. She needs just a piston/gaskets, everything else is ok. I’m thinking the saw didn’t run( bad gas) so they sold it.
 
buttercup

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Pretty sure you could handle it.

Here's a link.
Just know there are a couple safety concerns involved, they are all talked about in the link.
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...chain-grinder-for-cw-and-ccw-rotation.255986/
Thanks! I'll have to study that one, looks pretty simple to me - the word "safe" is when translated actually a part of my name :) I have archived that link to my documents.

Edit; after looking at it a little more those safety issues actually makes me a little unsettled, of course the most important thing is to know about those things I guess.
I think I'll start with making it rpm adjustable with an optional foot switch/controller, it will be with a micro controller so it will be a constant rpm at any rpm (increases power if rpm decreases).
I might make a thread about it when I get to it if it seems to have any real benefit, I'd like to see if it can be beneficial to the rolled steel edges as well.
 
chipper1

chipper1

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My shop teacher in HS had an old Harley that he would bring in once a year. I remember him trying to kick that thing over, too every ounce of his body weight to get it to fire.
Right, and if he didn't kick it over, the Harley would kick him over :surprised3:.
Red neck repair tonight. Those early to mid 90’s smaller and mid sized Arctic Cars didn’t have bumpers which means any crash needs repair. This will get the kids back out and running again.
View attachment 805473 View attachment 805475
Nice, I'm sure the kids won't complain when there out back whooping on it some more lol.
 
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