What Saw's On The Kitchen Island Today

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On the kitchen iland today was the husky 350 crankcase, cylinder. We’re ready to start assembly. She needs just a piston/gaskets, everything else is ok. I’m thinking the saw didn’t run( bad gas) so they sold it.
Good morning Bill.
Why does it need a P&C if it just had bad gas, or is that what you're wanting to do to it.
Did you decide what cylinder you are using yet.
 
Thanks! I'll have to study that one, looks pretty simple to me - the word "safe" is when translated actually a part of my name :) I have archived that link to my documents.

Edit; after looking at it a little more those safety issues actually makes me a little unsettled, of course the most important thing is to know about those things I guess.
I think I'll start with making it rpm adjustable with an optional foot switch/controller, it will be with a micro controller so it will be a constant rpm at any rpm (increases power if rpm decreases).
I might make a thread about it when I get to it if it seems to have any real benefit, I'd like to see if it can be beneficial to the rolled steel edges as well.
You run chainsaws, couldn't be any more dangerous than that if you take the proper precautions. To me its usually understanding the dangers that exist that help me to prepare/avoid the danger, sort of a here's your sign type thing.

If it's able to hold a consistent speed it may be of some advantage, but even though the controller will act as a governor I doubt it will have the power to actually bring the rpm back up even though it sounds great in theory. I know most grinders will bog down when grinding heavy without reducing their rpm, so I don't see it happening. I have a smaller Tecomec that I us on picco/LP chain and my biggest complaint is the lack of power, it does keep from blueing cutters though :yes:.
 
Good morning Bill.
Why does it need a P&C if it just had bad gas, or is that what you're wanting to do to it.
Did you decide what cylinder you are using yet.

I’m using the stock 350 open port cylinder with a new piston. This saw has a loose plastic clamp on the intake boot too. The cylinder looks like new.

I’m working on two 350’s right now, I have more to rebuild. I’m thinking when there all running to take all the left over parts and build a fugly Frankin saw.
 
You run chainsaws, couldn't be any more dangerous than that if you take the proper precautions. To me its usually understanding the dangers that exist that help me to prepare/avoid the danger, sort of a here's your sign type thing.

If it's able to hold a consistent speed it may be of some advantage, but even though the controller will act as a governor I doubt it will have the power to actually bring the rpm back up even though it sounds great in theory. I know most grinders will bog down when grinding heavy without reducing their rpm, so I don't see it happening. I have a smaller Tecomec that I us on picco/LP chain and my biggest complaint is the lack of power, it does keep from blueing cutters though :yes:.

Yep, it's the only solution. It's not possible to control or adjust rpm on this inductive motor anyway, it would need an AC frequency encoder of some sort and that's beyond my capability.
I'll do the reverse operation but it will have to wait till after the wood harvesting season. Thanks for all your input sir, it has broaden my knowledge greatly about this.
 
I’m using the stock 350 open port cylinder with a new piston. This saw has a loose plastic clamp on the intake boot too. The cylinder looks like new.

I’m working on two 350’s right now, I have more to rebuild. I’m thinking when there all running to take all the left over parts and build a fugly Frankin saw.
Are you using a flat top piston.
Did you order a new intake and clamp yet.
Thats what most guys who build them do.
If I was building them I'd be selling the ugly ones and keep the pretty ones :).
 
Yep, it's the only solution. It's not possible to control or adjust rpm on this inductive motor anyway, it would need an AC frequency encoder of some sort and that's beyond my capability.
I'll do the reverse operation but it will have to wait till after the wood harvesting season. Thanks for all your input sir, it has broaden my knowledge greatly about this.
I wouldn't say its the only solution, what about a different motor with gear reduction and then use the controller lol.
Look forward to seeing what you do with it and how you like it.
Your welcome.
 
Here’s the loose bearings on the crank, it lets the crank float right and left it’s very little movement and no bind or angular pressure on the porkchops.
 

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Here’s the cylinder we’re no scoring but one nick at the top of one transfer port where one piece of foreign material got into the crankcase. It scored the piston. Pics included. So there’s proof on what I’m saying it’s not bs.
 

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Here’s the cylinder we’re no scoring but one nick at the top of one transfer port where one piece of foreign material got into the crankcase. It scored the piston. Pics included. So there’s proof on what I’m saying it’s not bs.
I'd be dropping a 346 top on it myself, actually I'd let someone else do it and get a 353 to put one on :).
 
You have a couple good ones though right?

Yup I purchased parts saws and whole non running saws. The funny part is the cylinder seems to be outside bead blasted and the piston is too clean. I can’t figure it out.
 

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Here’s the only score mark in the cylinder. Saw 1/350
 

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The shaft is like new it cleaned up. The bearing and drum rusted only. Will call this saw 2/350.
I got a saw last summer, as soon as I pulled it over the chain was spinning. Took it apart and the bearing was rusted up. The PO said he had been running it in the rain and it was fine when he ran it last. It was fine, but I was a bit concerned at first. Funny how little grease it takes to keep those bearings properly lubed.
 
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