what to buy for a chainsaw mill- rookie

[T-Dozzer]

Hi folks,
Long time lurker, first time poster. Apologies if this gets asked a lot. I did a quick search and it wasn't specific enough to my question. I have a MS 280 I use for firewood and property clearing, but I consider my self a rookie compared to most of you. I cut around 10 cords per year.
I want to get into chainsaw milling, Mainly as a hobby and lumber procurement. I have decided on the Grandberg Alaskan mill. I will need a bigger saw. I want to stick with Stihl. I am torn on which model to get. Im mainly looking at used saws. Most of the wood will be fir and cedar and around 12-25 inches likely. The saw may also be used for firewood.
1- What saw and bar length do you recommend? I was thinking a MS 441 or possibly a MS 460 ( I found a 441 for $500)
2- What length of mill should I go with?

I will buy the mini mill later and just a circular saw in the meantime for edges.

thanks!

 

[djones]

Welcome to the site and cuddo's in recognizing that a larger saw is needed. I have a 30" Granberg Mill that works just fine for the wood I have or plan to mill. I too just do it as a means to utilize my pine tree lot for more than just firewood. I have (3) 70 cc saws that I use for milling but find that an 80 cc will probably do a better job with less wear and tear on the saw. I am using McCulloch saws from the 1970's just because I like the sound and feel of old Magnesium. You will find some interesting reading in the milling section under Milling 101. They have several tips and ideas that you will find to be very helpful. A boat winch attached to your Granberg helps take a lot of strain off your back and legs. Raising the wood off the ground and placed on a tilted table or stand also helps. Let gravity do her job. A generous flow of oil and a slightly rich setting to your carb will also help prolong saw and chain life.

An extra 1" tube between the push handle and the left side rail (nearest the powerhead) would be very helpful in my opinion. Using a ladder or other straight board is essential for the first cut. I have used this method to mill trees from 14" to 26" and enjoy do so. Good luck and have fun milling.

 

[T-Dozzer]

Welcome to the site and cuddo's in recognizing that a larger saw is needed. I have a 30" Granberg Mill that works just fine for the wood I have or plan to mill. I too just do it as a means to utilize my pine tree lot for more than just firewood. I have (3) 70 cc saws that I use for milling but find that an 80 cc will probably do a better job with less wear and tear on the saw. I am using McCulloch saws from the 1970's just because I like the sound and feel of old Magnesium. You will find some interesting reading in the milling section under Milling 101. They have several tips and ideas that you will find to be very helpful. A boat winch attached to your Granberg helps take a lot of strain off your back and legs. Raising the wood off the ground and placed on a tilted table or stand also helps. Let gravity do her job. A generous flow of oil and a slightly rich setting to your carb will also help prolong saw and chain life.
View attachment 651457
An extra 1" tube between the push handle and the left side rail (nearest the powerhead) would be very helpful in my opinion. Using a ladder or other straight board is essential for the first cut. I have used this method to mill trees from 14" to 26" and enjoy do so. Good luck and have fun milling.

thanks, Ill check out the 101 deal. Lots to learn.

 

[Brian72]

Welcome. Get the biggest saw possible. It's definitely worth it for milling. A 28 inch bar would probably be a good starter. I run a 48" Granberg with a 28" and 36" bar. When I got it, my thought was just in case I wanted to go bigger, the mill has the capability. Good thing I ordered bigger because I just got a 50" bar. Also, if you buy a smaller Granberg, you can always expand later just by ordering longer rails.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

 

[T-Dozzer]

how big of bar could a MS 441 pull without damage in a CS mill?
The reasoning behind leaning toward the 441 is I could use it as both my mill and general saw until. Then if I really get into it, Ill look for a BIG saw and use the 441 for edges.
thoughts? obviously I dont want to ruin a saw, but trying to kiil 2 birds with one stone sort of deal..

 

[Brian72]

how big of bar could a MS 441 pull without damage in a CS mill?
The reasoning behind leaning toward the 441 is I could use it as both my mill and general saw until. Then if I really get into it, Ill look for a BIG saw and use the 441 for edges.
thoughts? obviously I dont want to ruin a saw, but trying to kiil 2 birds with one stone sort of deal..

I think you'd be fine with a 28" and probably even a 32". Running skip chain helps too. You may want to consider an auxiliary oiler. Have you considered the 461? According to specs, it's only an ounce more but you'll get an extra 1/2 hp. I'm running a 661 with a 28" and 36" and recently got a 50" bar but haven't tried it yet.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

 

[T-Dozzer]

well.. at the advice of folks on here, Ill probably pass on the 441 even though it is a good price. Ive heard some negative stuff about recently anyway.
sooo.. I found a used 461 on CL from a guy who buys used saws and resells them. It looks to be in pretty good shape. He wants $725. I know there is a recall on the 461, but it would get fixed for free.
Is $725 a good price assuming its in good condition?

 

[BobL]

I use a 441 to mill stuff smaller than 20" in diameter and it has run flawlessly since 2009. I use full comp Lopro chain and it cuts just as fast as my bigger saws in small wood.
I mainly use it for carving and milling logs for nature playgrounds and park furniture. Unlike bigger saws I can work with the 441 all day long and not get exhausted.
In case you don't know I'm usually cutting much harder woods than most northern Hemisphere top trees.
For stuff bigger than 20" I use my 076 or 881. I can configure the chains on the bigger saws to cut faster in small wood but then they would bog down in bigger wood.

The 461 would slo be a good starter saw.

 

[rarefish383]

Nothing wrong with Stihl's, I have a 660 I use for most of my milling. But, a month or so ago I picked up a great running Homelite Super 1050 (100 CC's) for $150, and then a couple weeks later found a Mac 550 (99CC's) at a yard sale for $35, also a great runner. Good luck with whatever you settle on.

 

[T-Dozzer]

thanks for the input. I am going to go check out a 461 tomorrow. Its used, but I plan on dropping it at a dealer at some point to take care of some recall issues. Then down the road maybe some work on it. Im on the look out for a non stihl big cc as well.

 

[djones]

thanks for the input. I am going to go check out a 461 tomorrow. Its used, but I plan on dropping it at a dealer at some point to take care of some recall issues. Then down the road maybe some work on it. Im on the look out for a non stihl big cc as well.

It doesn't hurt to have backup saws when one goes kaplooie on you. Nothing like having a saw stop in the middle of a cut and not start again. 1 backup is good, 2 is better. Think like a seal, 1 is none and 2 is 1. Just my opinion. Been there, done that. Even a smaller CC saw will help you get the job done when one breaks down. You may have to cut a little slower is all and sharpen the chain real sharp.

 

[andy]

thanks for the input. I am going to go check out a 461 tomorrow. Its used, but I plan on dropping it at a dealer at some point to take care of some recall issues. Then down the road maybe some work on it. Im on the look out for a non stihl big cc as well.

Far from a Fanboy....I chose Stihl also for the dealer with a great Young Saw Tech about 5mins away.
The basic upkeep of a chainsaw must be something that a user can do.
That said, I don't do much beyond the basic stuff on the high revving gear here, having a shop (stocked with parts) minutes from home was a big deal.
The closest Husqvarna tech is 1.5 hours away.
FWIW, after much reading, all things being equal I would have chosen Husqvarna 395xp for milling.
Maybe Stihl seems to have lost a step with the latest M-Tronic (661 fiasco).
The Stihl network though can not be beat!
Should probably keep that in mind if you find a big old Saw of another make.

 

[blades]

Stilh big saws from days past 075-076- 084 - 088 parts a bit hard to find. 075-076 about 112cc, 084 &088 apx 121cc , little newer 066 91 cc

 

[BobL]

As far as I know the 088 and 880 are pretty compatible so spares should not be an issue.

 

[T-Dozzer]

well.. I bought the used MS 461. It came with a 32 inch bar. I plan to have it gone through when the recall is taken care of then possible some custom work. Few more questions-
1. Will the 461 pull a 32 inch bar ok in a mill or should I bump down? I plan on buying a smaller bar anyway for cutting firewood as the 32 isnt very fun to use all day.
2. Its a used saw, so I dont have a warranty. What mods should I look into having done to help it perform?
I think the 30" mill would work even if using the 32" bar since you lose some bar length, but I will double check. Going with the 30" mill would allow me to run a 32" or 25" bar bar.
Saw seems to be in good shape. Deffinatly more poswer than I have gotten used to with my opther s

 

[SeMoTony]

well.. I bought the used MS 461. It came with a 32 inch bar. I plan to have it gone through when the recall is taken care of then possible some custom work. Few more questions-
1. Will the 461 pull a 32 inch bar ok in a mill or should I bump down? I plan on buying a smaller bar anyway for cutting firewood as the 32 isnt very fun to use all day.
2. Its a used saw, so I dont have a warranty. What mods should I look into having done to help it perform?
I think the 30" mill would work even if using the 32" bar since you lose some bar length, but I will double check. Going with the 30" mill would allow me to run a 32" or 25" bar bar.
Saw seems to be in good shape. Deffinatly more poswer than I have gotten used to with my opther s

Muffler modding is essential IMHO. These engines are self powered air pumps. The easier the flow through the less heat trapped and the greater potential for converting liquid potential energy into actual power used to cut end grain.
Avatar shows ms-460 m-m'd with Max flo air cleaner, run a little rich (on the gas) and oil ratio 32-40/1. Chain is square chisel skip 3/8 .063 on a 60" cannon bar. Not recommended for continued use. It is bothersome nursing thru the cut to not bog the powerhead down. Gotta stay in an rpm range that allows free flo of the exhaust heat out and the cooler air-fuel mix in. End of cut allow the powerhead idle/cool down.
There is a raffle in "Chainsaw" thread with many thousands of dollars in prizes, including more than twenty saws, porting jobs, ground up saw build ( labor only) with your parts. A built to your request work saw is up there in value, chances are eleven dollars (including the gratuity) each. I mentioned that new worksaw because I got a 661w/ported cylinder that does all required, from the trading Post here for less than a new stock 661 from local dealers. There are a lot of options for finding a strong milling saw that will serve you well.
Take care, be safe while you enjoy

 

[Brian72]

well.. I bought the used MS 461. It came with a 32 inch bar. I plan to have it gone through when the recall is taken care of then possible some custom work. Few more questions-
1. Will the 461 pull a 32 inch bar ok in a mill or should I bump down? I plan on buying a smaller bar anyway for cutting firewood as the 32 isnt very fun to use all day.
2. Its a used saw, so I dont have a warranty. What mods should I look into having done to help it perform?
I think the 30" mill would work even if using the 32" bar since you lose some bar length, but I will double check. Going with the 30" mill would allow me to run a 32" or 25" bar bar.
Saw seems to be in good shape. Deffinatly more poswer than I have gotten used to with my opther s

Congrats! I'm sure it will pull the 32". Best option is to use the smallest bar possible to get the job done. It's easier on the saw and less to sharpen. Removing the felling dogs will gain you some too. When I got my mill, I went with a 48" just in case I wanted to go bigger and I'm glad I did. I normally cut bigger stuff so my 28" bar doesn't get much use.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

 

[Marine5068]

It doesn't hurt to have backup saws when one goes kaplooie on you. Nothing like having a saw stop in the middle of a cut and not start again. 1 backup is good, 2 is better. Think like a seal, 1 is none and 2 is 1. Just my opinion. Been there, done that. Even a smaller CC saw will help you get the job done when one breaks down. You may have to cut a little slower is all and sharpen the chain real sharp.

Always have a backup

 

[Marine5068]

well.. I bought the used MS 461. It came with a 32 inch bar. I plan to have it gone through when the recall is taken care of then possible some custom work. Few more questions-
1. Will the 461 pull a 32 inch bar ok in a mill or should I bump down? I plan on buying a smaller bar anyway for cutting firewood as the 32 isnt very fun to use all day.
2. Its a used saw, so I dont have a warranty. What mods should I look into having done to help it perform?
I think the 30" mill would work even if using the 32" bar since you lose some bar length, but I will double check. Going with the 30" mill would allow me to run a 32" or 25" bar bar.
Saw seems to be in good shape. Deffinatly more poswer than I have gotten used to with my opther s

Congrats and post some pics of some milled wood soon.

 

[T-Dozzer]

Using a 25" bar to start.
Still need to sort out why my HO oiler isnt putting out what I think it should. My dual port muffler just showed up so Ill get that on soon.
Man this fun! Hard on my saw, but fun. My brand new chain already has heat signs on it.