Which dump trailer to buy?

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You aren't dumping while in the driver's seat?
No. Not with a bumper pull trailer.
Get out and release lower tailgate pins, and activate pump to raise tailgate.
Then a lever is switched in the control box on the tongue, from auxiliary to dump. (Auxiliary mode redirects from dump to a second lever to choose tailgate or tongue jack.)
Once the proper setting is manually chosen, pump activation is with a remote fob.
 
No. Not with a bumper pull trailer.
Get out and release lower tailgate pins, and activate pump to raise tailgate.
Then a lever is switched in the control box on the tongue, from auxiliary to dump. (Auxiliary mode redirects from dump to a second lever to choose tailgate or tongue jack.)
Once the proper setting is manually chosen, pump activation is with a remote fob.

So you dump the trailer and then what?
 
So you dump the trailer and then what?
I smile!
So much easier than unloading the flatbed by hand.
Had a flat on the piggyback forklift Friday.
They are basically skid steer tires, Galaxy Hippo's.
I couldn't lift it to get it in the pickup, and there were logs on the forks, so that was out.
Hooked up the trailer, dropped the hydraulic ramp, and off to the tire shop.IMG_4444.jpg63183108286__94AC44CF-2DB6-4D3A-A249-582CE2CF4CCA.jpg63190390886__EE3861AA-0072-477B-808D-469387FC381B.jpg
 
So 2 or 3 cords of wood, or logs, comes out without having to pull forward?

I rarely lift my dump bed all the way up without pulling forward when loaded with wood. No reason to put the weight up any higher than needed.

Raise bed until wood is coming out, then it's raising while pulling forward until it's empty.

Almost flopped a truck twice so far, out of thousands of loads.
Once it started tipping but settled and I got the bed lowered.
2nd, it tipped but the headboard hit against a tree so it stopped it. Was ok other than it put a bit of twist in the bed.
Ideally dumping on flat ground, but that's often not an option. Have had to use firewood to make a ramp under a drive tire to get it up a foot or so to level the truck a bit. Or even hand unload.
The steep driveways are a pain, a few bad enough that the bed all the way up wasn't steep enough to dump the wood out.
Or the other way, where wood is falling out before even dumping.
 
Ah, I misunderstood.
Yes, of course I had to pull way, way forward.
As someone here said 12' for a 12' trailer.
This one is 16' and that is close to how far I pulled ahead for only one cord.
The trailer has drop axles to lower the deck height for the ramp, so probably the worst for dumping.
The dump spot was flat, but the truck was going slightly down hill, then more so as I pulled ahead.
There are some long term customers that will definitely be an issue with both level side to side spots and bushes with this truck, which is my daily driver. No intension of scratching it up for a few bucks worth of firewood. Sprinklers along driveways are going to be a big one too, and staying on the drives with this size trailer. I am already thinking a year ahead to an additional smaller trailer. A Dump Dog insert would work but I'm not there yet unless I added a beater one ton truck. Have to kick up my volume for any of that. Which leap frogs to a processor.
I have been on jobs where two dump trucks tipped over sideways, one on a foreman pickup, and one utility boom truck setting a transformer. Rain day, the outrigger sank in soft wet clay, despite pads. Brand new truck too. The wrecker drug it sideways ninety degrees to get it parallel to roll it up. What a mess.
We have some Lego style leveling blocks for the RV, and maybe a 2" x 12" x 8' plank for a base beneath them. I'll be getting a couple Lego kits for the dump trailer and possibly a kit with phone app that tells how much out of level a trailer is. Floor of the bed lifts approx. 11' at full height, plus height of bed when down which is 28" or 32", something around there.
I could use a back up camera, and maybe a construction vehicle flashing LED light kit for truck and trailer, for backing in from busy roads considering how people drive and tempers flash.
For now, my focus is free hand sharpening. Something I've never attempted.
Always used jigs of some sort. Having mixed results hand filing, but some are very encouraging. Initially I thought I was getting really sharp. But the edge was gone in ten cuts. I'm doing better now, bigger file, adjusted top cut angle for winter hardwood. Watching Buckin Billy Rae and some Ironhorse on YouTube. Between east and west coast, my cuts are improving over the Stihl 2-1. I heard Billy Rae say those three stroke guys.... That's me! I had become complacent relying on the 2-1. I only did a 1/4 cord yesterday, but cutting put a big grin on my face.
So, not all improvements cost thousands of dollars, or the newest, latest saw. Although that's fun too.
And adding to that. I got the 357xp off the shelf and filed it as well. The 562 and 357 have the same set up, 18" bar, full house, full chisel. So as off today, I'm running both saws.
Getting long winded again and side tracked...
Enjoy your day!
 
I rarely lift my dump bed all the way up without pulling forward when loaded with wood. No reason to put the weight up any higher than needed.

Raise bed until wood is coming out, then it's raising while pulling forward until it's empty.

Almost flopped a truck twice so far,
Thanks for the tip, and real world reminder...
Greatly appreciated!
 
I've been running a 8x14 PJ Deckover now for all of 7 years, rated at 14,000 lbs. Bought it lightly used but it has been running flawlessly for us, still has the original battery in it. There isn't any paint left on it but that is typical for these trailers. We delivered 130 full cords with it last year. Being a deck over it has the shorter sides that fold down so I can also use it for hauling material for the storage shed operation. I have hauled 2 full cords in it before but you have to put plywood on the sides and then stack it a little bit. I wouldn't recommend that to often. I have gotten 4 face cords in it without the plywood as well, but that is a load. We usually just dump in a full cord at a time and you hardly have to do any moving of the wood by hand. I have a divider system with stops blocks that allows me to load two face cords in the trailer at a time. We can do 2 different deliveries then with out having to run back to the shop. We have a hardwire that runs from the truck battery to the back of the truck that we plug the dump trailer in to that allows the truck to charge the trailer battery. I have done 10 deliveries in a day with it and never had the battery run low. Ours is a scissor lift, would recommend that over the 2 hydraulic cylinders. I wouldn't get a low pro style trailer, that why I like the deck over. It sits higher and the firewood dumps out a little better. If I was going to get a dedicated firewood trailer, probably get 16'er with a little taller sides so you could haul 2 cords if you had to. I probably only have 5 customers that order 2 cords at a time so you have to see if the larger trailer would be worth it. If your truck is set up for the goose neck I would go that route. Handles the weight better and they are easier to maneuver. Is the truck 4x4?

All that being said we are trying to find a dump truck for this seasons deliveries. When we get rolling I have to many deliveries to do so we were hoping to hire someone this year to try and keep up. I wouldn't trust anyone else to try and back in someones driveway with a dump trailer. We are looking for something like this.View attachment 845580 View attachment 845581View attachment 845582Been trying to find a F450/550 with a 84" cab axle to have that style box fabbed on the chassis.

I watch that Tow Piglet guy, he's an idiot, take what he does and do the opposite and you'll be fine.
Nice design. Hows it working since July 2020? Any repairs needed or smooth sailing?
 
Update: Some photos and comments after a few delivery runs, and hauling a compact tractor with back blade.
16'; tagged 15,400 gvw. No options ordered.
Hooking up is pretty easy. There are fender marker lights visible that help aide lining up. The trailer is wider than the truck. I have hooked it up by myself once without issue. Generally Margaret is around and helps spot me. The 16' part is very nice so far. Even in a very difficult delivery spot, the length makes backing quite easy. And it tows well, although so far all very light loads. The compact tractor w/fel and back blade had only inches to spare with bucket flat. Being high sided, not much option for anything that's over length. Tie downs are spaced oddly. There are six, two front and two rear. The mid points are forward of center due to wheel wells and fenders. It does allow a small load to be centered over axles and strapped. The tailgate ramp is delightful for equipment, especially unloading, and personal access. The back blade barely rubbed the drive when loading. This could be avoided by adjusting attachment height, or raising trailer jack. The diamond plate covered pump box, tongue and supported fenders are very solid for standing on, viewing load, or accessing back of truck without worry of any spot being to flimsy or damaged by stepping on it.. There are numerous grease zerks, in all the expected areas, lift, lift tailgate, suspension. The suspension bracket between axles is gusseted, and slipper springs are used. The box floor framing is pocketed for the scissors hoist, and top of hoist design seems to support this floor area when not raised. I imagine you would not want to drop concrete or heavy loads there however, as a precaution to the rod packing. But I could be wrong. The spare matches the wheel set, and has steel inserts to combat loosening lug nuts sometimes associated with aluminum trailer wheels. The tires and wheels supersede the gvw requirements, and seem significant. The tires are industry standard, imports. The spare is also accessible without raising the box. There is a very long cabled control allowing full access to rear of trailer and then some. One concern is that this controller does not have an on/off switch. Therefore, when traveling I have placed the hydraulic mode selector on axillary/tailgate because the tailgate locks. If a button was inadvertently activated the pump might run, but the tailgate is locked down and pinned vs the dump function which could theoretically raise the box when traveling. There is also a fob to run the pump. The location of the antenna on the pump box makes for spotty reliability. I would like to relocate the antenna to the rear of the trailer through the main frame. There are wiring access areas. Lastly, I initially was going for the highly visible green paint option and decided on black because of industry wide poor quality paint preping, thinking a green trailer with rust streaks from chips could soon be rather ugly. The paint has some road chips from my usage, and those have quickly rusted. It's a tool and going to be used. We will see what it looks like in a year. Another small note is that it is a noisy trailer moving in the wood lot, as the high sides allow folding down, there is a small bit of rattling. A huge positive to date is the very easy to use tarp system. Two bungees, and slight lift on the hoop, then some back pressure to avoid slamming on retract. Two bungees to secure. Love that when delivering.
I have adopted the Japanese style "point and speak" system. I use this a lot as a double check of myself, pointing, and verbally saying what I'm pointing at, after hooking up the trailer. Hitch latch/pinned, emergency brake...connected, safety chains crossed/connected, lights/brakes...connected. Same at customers. Overhead limbs/wires...point and speak.
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Crane You may want to look at putting a Rock Tamer mud flag system on your pickup to protect the front of your trailer. I have a home made version I run on my pickup. I pull a lot of gravel roads. One on my trailers I pull a lot of miles I even put aluminum diamond plate on the front of the fenders and on the front of the trailer to protect it. That trailer gets pulled on gravel all spring till fall ever year. It gets sandblasted from gravel.
 
Crane You may want to look at putting a Rock Tamer mud flag system on your pickup to protect the front of your trailer. I have a home made version I run on my pickup. I pull a lot of gravel roads. One on my trailers I pull a lot of miles I even put aluminum diamond plate on the front of the fenders and on the front of the trailer to protect it. That trailer gets pulled on gravel all spring till fall ever year. It gets sandblasted from gravel.
My Dad made his own for hauling their camper.
Had maybe $50 of materials, the mud flaps being most of the cost.
 
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We watch Keep Your Daydream, an RV YouTube channel. They used the Rock Tamer on a trip to Alaska.
We did add WeatherTech (spelling) mud flaps all the way around on the truck. And last year did some light gage diamond plate on our 2005 RV. The propane clam shell was an odd duck. Half in the trailer, half out design. The plastic uv fatigued and I could not find a replacement. The manufacturer was bought out, and the production building converted to fire and ems unit production. I did some repairs and diamond plated the lower front, gluing it on. Moved the propane and battery forward.
Doing some cabinet repairs today.
If the dump trailer needs repainting in a year or two I'll probably go that route. I bought it not expecting much in the way of paint. So far firewood sales are pretty flat.
 
I bought this last week just to have around to pull the tractor on my bigger trailer. I'm planning on putting a dump hoist on it when I have time. Likely have it for sale while I use it and if it sells then on to the next one. I want a 4x4 one and maybe diesel. Bidding on one right now but likely going to go for more than I want for all the use I will have for it.
 

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With extension forks I can hold the load above the tailgate and walk completely around it, to stack in trailer. I don't have to move the splitter to access the conveyor. Then return the conveyor to it's processing spot. That worked also, but added set up time for each delivery. This works very well.
Our son rented a walk behind Bobcat and cement mixer for a deck project. We hooked up the quad to the mixer and drove it in/out. The axle on the mixer being much wider than the quad. Not an issue with the full ramp. Very happy so far with this choice. I've had home owners spot me to avoid sprinklers and narrow gated drives. So far no problem. One owner wanted it dumped in the road and I said no. It was a private road, but no just the same. We got it in his driveway first shot. There are blind spots with a high sided dump trailer. Just have to get out and look more often. Your gas mileage will vary...
We ran short of cement and picked up eight 60# bags and set them on the rear of the trailer. Big difference, even though the tail overhang is quit short behind the axles and the trailer is 16'.
I am so happy with this trailer, after having second thoughts after ordering it.
It's my first utility trailer, so honestly, I'd be happy with any of them, but I really like the full width ramp.
Edit: photos added, 2/3 cord stacked in trailer.
Edit #2: I wish it had more tie downs in the box.
 

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I rarely lift my dump bed all the way up without pulling forward when loaded with wood. No reason to put the weight up any higher than needed.

Raise bed until wood is coming out, then it's raising while pulling forward until it's empty.

Almost flopped a truck twice so far, out of thousands of loads.
16' high sided box can lift pretty high. I'll have to measure it when empty.
I found stacking two rows 82" wide and 28"- 29" high x 2 is one third cord. The sides fold down at 28" so that's what I've been stacking to, and works out well. I could probably stack near 2 cord without stacking over 28" high. 12x 16" = 192 which is length of trailer. I guess the last row would be scattered on top of the others. It keeps the load pretty low.
 

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