Which one??????????????

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

computerboy345

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jun 30, 2001
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Location
belvidere
:confused: i am looking into buying 2 new saws. i want one midsized one and a big one for cutting down very big trees. i am debating between echo, sthil,shindawa, and john deere. price is not the deciding factor for me i want somthing that is high in quality and needs very little or no repairs. i need something that stands up to everyday harsh conditions. what brands do you guys recommend?

also,
i own a sthil and it is nothing but problems. i took it back to the dealer ship everyday and they could not straighten it out. the problem was the chain kept falling off. at first they said i was cutting spindly stuff and it got wrapped around the chain and that is why the chain kept breaking so then i took the saw back home and cut a 13 inch tree trunk and the chain broke again so i took it back and they said the chain wasnt properly tightened so they tightened it for me and i went back home and cut a new notch in that same tree and the chain broke again. next they said that it wasnt getting enough oil and i checked and there is plenty of oil comming out onto the chain....and then i figured out why the chain kept coming out on the bottom side of the chain that rides in the track there are bubbles(just little ridges that make it too wide to fit back into the bar) on the carrige links why does the chain keep bubling out? the chains have less then 20 min worth of cutting and i have had many different sthil shop workers do the tightening of the chain for me and i have stayed out of the little stuff like they told me to......also the bubbles will be on 3 continus links and then stop and the chain will be fine and then theere will be more links that have bubbles on them......any suggestions about why the chain keeps breaking and bubbling? ps i did clean the bar out.
 
The "bubbles" are caused when the chain comes off the bar while the sprocket is still spinning. The sprocket gouges the drive links and the chain will not fit back on the bar properly. This usually happens to 3 or 4 links only. The way to fix it is get a new chain or try to carefully file the gouges down. I suspect this happened the first time the chain came off, probably from running it too loose. Then when it was put back on, it may have seemed tight, but the gouged links prevented the chain from seating in the bar groove, and it just loosened up right away and came off again. This probably caused some more gouged drive links. It sounds like the repair guy wasn't very knowledgable or maybe he just didn't take the time to do a proper diagnosis. I don't think the problem is with the saw. So, how to fix it. I'd get a new chain and maybe a new bar (the bar might be messed up from running it with deformed drive links). Also, check the sprocket to make sure it didn't get torn up. Keep the chain sharp and keep it tight. Top off the oil tank every time you gas up the saw. As for the first part of your question, I recommend Stihl 026 and 044 or Husky 350 and 272XP.
 
__________________
Brett
ISA Certified Arborist
"Peace Be With You" in response to your letter i do apreciate your advice but everytime i took it to the "sthil certified mechanic" he put a new chain on and he "properly tightened it" i would think he knows what he is doing about how tight the chain would be....he put a new chain on tightend it and i went home and half way though the 13in tree the chain again came off and had bubbles on it and the chain had not had an opertunity to get hot and strech so it should have been still according to the mechanic properly tightened.....is it true that you should not cut braches smaller than your thumb w/a saw? as long as it doesnt wrap around the chain why cant you? i have 4 machullahs and i cut anything w/them and a few times i even got them in the dirt and they didnt care they would cut anything.......they were good saws i abused them for 40 years (bought them in 1960) and the last one of mine broke and i cant find parts for it but why could i cut small stuff w/my macullah and not have the chain bubble. also as a test i put a stihl chain on my machullah before it broke and that chain would cut through anything and wouldnt break.....so i am thinking since my still keeps breaking chains it is something else w/that saw
 
Perhaps you would be better off with a craftsman saw. They have great prices and service. Unless you are a motor-head, those Stihls are nothing but trouble.;)
 
You didn't mention which Stihl model you had. I'm running an 044, 2 028 Supers & an 019T. None of them has ever displayed the symptoms you described. No problem cutting the small stuff, even with the biggest of my saws.

Now to the tech stuff...
You mentioned that the tech put a new chain on & tensioned it. You still had the same problem. I would suggest a really close look at the sprocket & bar. Something is causing the chain to jump the bar. A damaged rim sprocket makes it really easy to jump the bar, especially with those qustionable drivers you mentioned. The bar, chain & sprocket need to be well maintained & need to work unison. If one part of that equation is out of whack, you're in for a long & miserable day.

Take a look. You will most likely be able to fix it yourself & save a few bucks on labor.

Good Luck,
Larry
 
Hi Folks,

Computer boy,
In all due respect Computerboy, The brand or make of the saw has nothing to do with your problem. Maintenance and product knowledge is the culprit here. But what concerns me more than the problem at hand is the Safety Factor. When i ran your post through my Safety Factometer it blew a fuse, you went off the scale!!! Please don't take this wrong, But you need to be more concerned with the safe operation of saws you are at great risk!!! :blob2:
 
I may be way off here. But, if you breaking new chains, one after another, it sounds like the wrong size chain is being installed. You didn't mention what Stihl saw you have. But if the wrong link size was installed, say a 91 series min 3/8" where a 95VP (.325") chain should be, or some other bad combination, it will never run correctly. Many saws in the 50-55cc range can run either a .325 or a 3/8 chain "IF" they have the matching sprocket and bar to go with it.

As far as a recommendationa for a medium and larger saw, I would say Husqvarna 346XP and 372XP or Stihl 026 and 044. All four of these are metal-cased, commercial grade saws that will last many years if well maintained.

Please post what model Stihl you have and what chain you are running on it. Now you've made me curious!

Carroll
 
Mousetrap and Chain Gang

I believe you 2 are getting warm. The thing I noticed is that he had to take his saw back to the dealer to get the chain tensioned. I must assume they also tried to show him how to do it. I'm sorry for sounding rude, but I don't believe someone incapable of properly tensioning a chain (or recognizing when it is too tight/loose) has ANY business running a saw. I recommend a chainsaw safety and maintenence course or at least find someone who knows how to handle a saw to walk him through the basics. And any shop who sells him a BIG saw is not doing him any favors untill he learns how to operate a saw. Chainsaws are just too dangerous to be run by people like this.:(
 
Last edited:
for u brian i am 66 years old and have been running a chain saw since i was 13 and i can tension a chain but what i am trying to say is that i took it back to a person that knows what they are doing and is the almighty according to them and the almighty dealership can tighten it and it still messes up....i have a total of 7 saws at the moment and have a lumber business and i do know waht i am doing..my smallest saw right now is 4.1 horse and i have never gotton even a scratch from a saw so my point is the dealer ship who is supposed to be high and mighty can tighten it and it still messes up and the dealership has had it for 3 weeks and looked at it and still cant say what the problem is
 
If the dealer has had it for 3 weeks and can't figure it out, I don't think any of us can help you either. I think the dealer should either fix it or give you a new saw. It sounds like a lemon to me. Maybe some type of manufacturing defect.
 
i figured out my problem the dealer is a idiot and was just jakin me around........i took it to a much farther away dealership and they said i can cut anything i want w/the saw and the drive sproket was messed up so my advice is no saw is break free so scope out the service department before you buy any saw
 
My apologies computerboy. Once again, I have jumped to a conclusion and landed on my face in the mud. :(
 
Oh, and to your origional question I would recommend the Husky 3120XP for a big saw and maybe a Stihl 044-046Magnum for a mid-size.
 
ps.the other service guy fixed it in 3 seconds and said he had seen alot of those having a problem so check out the service dept before you buy a new saw....
 
Computerboy,

I think you have answered your own question: The dealership that correctly repaired your saw is probably the one you should do business with. Good service is a must if you want results and not mysteries. Let that shop recommend a chain saw to you. That way, you will have someone who can really help you when you need it.

Stihls are good saws and also the most expensive. Here in NC, Husqvarna has recently been dominating the chain saw market for many good reasons. I've never used a Jonsered, but they and Husqvarna are both owned by the same company, Electrolux. Echo makes many good products, but their saws are not among my favorites. John Deere's saws are made by Olympik and Homelite.

Good Luck,

Carroll
 
Computerboy

Carroll is right...the dealership is the place to get your expert advise...they can even show you some demonstrations of saws to help you make up your mind. However, with 53 years experience using chainsaws, we should all be asking you for advice...

I would consider a brand of saw that would be easy for you to do alot of the service on yourself...i have "horse-traded" a few jonsereds and wish that i had them all back (easy for me to service).

Anyway, let us know what you decide on (and why)

Thanks

Lane
 
thanks for yoru help lane........i was asking because i have always sworn by macallah day in day out that is the only name of saw i have ever used so i dont know nor have ever used any other name of saw so i dont know what is a good one....i would still buy mac but they went out of business...............i am also confused because i have seen demonstarations on many saws and all of them have a feature that stands out from the rest............all of them also claim to be the most durable and the top selling saw...........i think they all work about equal but they are also all new.... when something is brand new they are great but i was wondering how they are when they are up against 364 day a year wide open, 8 hr day abuse....... that is why i am asking you guys becuase i was wondering about durability and when spending about 1500 dollars i wnat the best so i was asking you becuase i am sure you guy have run old huskies, sthils etc and i was wondering how much you had to put in to repairs and how well you like them when they get old and tire........i need to know how the saws perform when the new wears off and the old shines through so that is why i am asking you.........
 
so............any of you guys that have imput as to wheather i should get a stihl,jonsered,jd,husky or husque i would like to hear from you..........i dont care about price and noise............................................i want to know what is good when the old wears off and the new shines through..........once again i am asking becuase i have only had experience w/macs so as i said they are pretty much all comperable w/acceleration and power and all start nice now but they are all new so anyone that likes a peticular brand or model let me know which one and why thaks
 
Finding a good saw mechanic is pretty crucial if you make a living with the things. I went thru a half dozen shops before I found one that consistently did good work on chainsaws. Many of the others, saws were 2nd fiddle to snow mobiles, dirt bikes, etc. It's a universal problem. My computer died last week..1st tech said it was toast, time to shop for a new one...2nd tech with some experience solved the problem for $50.00 in new RAM.
 
Back
Top