Which Super-Split? J, HD, or Special Edition?

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Doc,
I ran a few rounds at the old owners place and it slices through cherry ( 18" rounds). it is a very different feeling in that it "slices" not "torques" though the split. When you look at the SS it's intimidating at first. You as the new operator, look at the size of the unit and it seems "toy like" because you are so "used" to the hydraulic style splitter where mass is king. Looking at the way you load the round and the size of the "ram" I don't see how it is not safer once you get the hydraulic method out of your memory. If it ever stops raining I might get a chance to get out there and fiddle with it.

thanks for the vote of confidence.

Awww, so now I know it is possible to find a SS cheap on CL. I now will not stop till I find one.:clap: If I'm gonna use a splitter over my monster maul, I think it is gonna have be a SS.
 
Angelo,

...I got a line on another kita 6401 Home depot mule...24 rentals...newer version with newer cover...$250. Compression is 165, starts and runs on the 2nd-3rd pull.

Wasn't really planning on buying another one so soon, but my pal works in the rental dept. and let me know its gonna go up for sale soon.

What do you think?

-Mark
 
Angelo,

...I got a line on another kita 6401 Home depot mule...24 rentals...newer version with newer cover...$250. Compression is 165, starts and runs on the 2nd-3rd pull.

Wasn't really planning on buying another one so soon, but my pal works in the rental dept. and let me know its gonna go up for sale soon.

What do you think?

-Mark

Send it too me!
 
Nice find! Good luck with the return mechanism. Did you get it out of the truck yet?

-Mark

not yet, I've been trying to finish out a few other projects( redmax trimmers and a 028 project-oil ,brakes on the van ect) so I figure I'll take the SS apart on monday. It's in the garage though so it's one step closer. Wife wasn't happy about losing her spot. Thank God I'm out of work or I might not ever get to finish these projects....
 
Angelo,

...I got a line on another kita 6401 Home depot mule...24 rentals...newer version with newer cover...$250. Compression is 165, starts and runs on the 2nd-3rd pull.

Wasn't really planning on buying another one so soon, but my pal works in the rental dept. and let me know its gonna go up for sale soon.

What do you think?

-Mark

At $225 I'm a buyer...they are usually willing to negotiate some. you can ask him about the hours out on the saw as a good idea on it's overall usage. 165 lbs is real good.
 
Awww, so now I know it is possible to find a SS cheap on CL. I now will not stop till I find one.:clap: If I'm gonna use a splitter over my monster maul, I think it is gonna have be a SS.

I was a "Maul Cop" too until I realized how time consuming it is. I still will swing the maul but more as exercise then as a production thing. And more so on the real big rounds. Whittle them down somewhat.

I've seen three SS come up on CL in the last two years and they tend to sit a while as regular firewood guys aren't interested( small but loyal following). I saw one a year ago that was electric not gas. I almost bought that one but it was 220. I hate all electrical things. I didn't realize how simple it is to convert it back to gas or 110.

Ohio ain't too far from NJ. I'll keep an eye out if your serious and willing to travel.
 
Mark,
I got some time to play with the SS today. It is CaveMan simple...I don't know what the return spring should be but what looks like a garage door spring is loosely hanging on around the back of the "I" beam. This isn't working well. That being said I threw a few logs at it after I lubed it and cleaned it up some. Man this thing is impressive.

If anyone has one that can take a shot if what the correct return spring should be I would be greatly appreciative. If the wedge were taller and the ram were larger it would be Ideal. The rack and pinion thing is really cool.

Anyone in the area that wants to come play with it must bring some logs....I'm all out .. yup that's my complaint...it eats wood too fast.

A
 
I was a "Maul Cop" too until I realized how time consuming it is. I still will swing the maul but more as exercise then as a production thing. And more so on the real big rounds. Whittle them down somewhat.

I've seen three SS come up on CL in the last two years and they tend to sit a while as regular firewood guys aren't interested( small but loyal following). I saw one a year ago that was electric not gas. I almost bought that one but it was 220. I hate all electrical things. I didn't realize how simple it is to convert it back to gas or 110.

Ohio ain't too far from NJ. I'll keep an eye out if your serious and willing to travel.

Ya, SS are rare around here. I hope to find a project one like you snagged. BTW, how much you snag that thing for?

Gas is the way to go IMO. Electric would be a hassle dealing with a cord and worrying about a hook up

I'm in the market for a SS now, I just have the money to buy new (college student) and don't want to travel a long way to just look at one. I will be in Jersey next weekend helping a lady move. So if for some reason you find one this week, let me know. hahaha:clap:
 
Mark,
I got some time to play with the SS today. It is CaveMan simple...I don't know what the return spring should be but what looks like a garage door spring is loosely hanging on around the back of the "I" beam. This isn't working well. That being said I threw a few logs at it after I lubed it and cleaned it up some. Man this thing is impressive.

If anyone has one that can take a shot if what the correct return spring should be I would be greatly appreciative. If the wedge were taller and the ram were larger it would be Ideal. The rack and pinion thing is really cool.

Anyone in the area that wants to come play with it must bring some logs....I'm all out .. yup that's my complaint...it eats wood too fast.

A

Easy fix. there is a piece of steel welded at an angle under the engine at he back of the splitter going from the bean to the axle post. With the ram(rack) gear all the way back, pull the spring on one side back and slide the flat piece of steel into the spring(kinda like a tounge and groove board). do the same on the other side. If done correctly, thr spring will form a u shape. don't put too much tension on the spring or it will break. If the spring won't stay in place, wrap a zip tie (duct tape works too!)wround the spring on the back side of the flat piece of steel(u part of the spring). Hope this helps. Could show you better but you are too far away. Any other questions feel free to ask. Been around ss since I was born. Not much I have'nt done to them.
 
Easy fix. there is a piece of steel welded at an angle under the engine at he back of the splitter going from the bean to the axle post. With the ram(rack) gear all the way back, pull the spring on one side back and slide the flat piece of steel into the spring(kinda like a tongue and groove board). do the same on the other side. If done correctly, thr spring will form a u shape. don't put too much tension on the spring or it will break. If the spring won't stay in place, wrap a zip tie (duct tape works too!)wround the spring on the back side of the flat piece of steel(u part of the spring). Hope this helps. Could show you better but you are too far away. Any other questions feel free to ask. Been around ss since I was born. Not much I have'nt done to them.

NHlogga,
I spoke to SS today, I was expecting a corporate mishmash of call center challenges but alas, I spoke to Paul who apparently is chief, cook and bottle washer..He assured me that the spring I have sounds like it's correct. He is sending me an owners manual and an IPL to look at. He thinks there is some resistance in the I beam/ ram cart area that is binding or holding the return spring up. he says you should need very little "spring tension".

if there is any way you could post a photo of the connection and the spring I would be greatly appreciative. He also mentioned that the entire ram-cart assembly is $44. hard to argue with that logic. One more question, on the cart I have there are two bearings on the front or wedge side of the cart that rides the I beam rails, is there any chance that there should be 4 ? (one on each corner). It seems it would bind less if it were a 4 wheeled cart.

thanks so much
Angelo
 
The number of bearings on the cart depends on how old the machine is. older ones have 2 due to the way the rack gear pivots up when returning. On the older machine the cart pivots with the gear. On later machines the gear only pivots on the return thus being able to ues 4 bearings. The way to tell which you have with out looking at the bearings is to look at the ram itself. On both styles the rack gear bolts to the ram(my grand father welded his due to the bolts breaking), but the difference is how the ram and gear mount onto the cart. On 4 bearing models the ram/gear assembly fit into a groove on the cart with one big bolt holding them in place. the ram/gear pivot on that bolt. On the older models i believe the ram is part of the cart. One thing I forgot to mention re the spring is that the spring has a loop on each end. The loops hook the bearing bolts on the each side of the cart. On 4 bearing models the springs hook to the rear bearing bolt on each side. They run along the frame from one side around the back of the machine as I described in my last post along the frame up the other side. As for posting pics, I'm not that advanced. Only recently learned how to e-mail them. If you can post pics I can tell you what you have. SS is not a big company. Just a few employees and the head guy. No B.S. which is great. If they don't answer the phone, they are busy or not there. I have been to their place a number or years ago. I think they have since moved. The cart may be binding due to bad bearing(s), debris under the cart, or you may need shims between the cart and the plate the bearings bolt to. there is one plate on each side that bolt to the bottom of the cart.
 
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The number of bearings on the cart depends on how old the machine is. older ones have 2 due to the way the rack gear pivots up when returning. On the older machine the cart pivots with the gear. On later machines the gear only pivots on the return thus being able to ues 4 bearings. The way to tell which you have with out looking at the bearings is to look at the ram itself. On both styles the rack gear bolts to the ram(my grand father welded his due to the bolts breaking), but the difference is how the ram and gear mount onto the cart. On 4 bearing models the ram/gear assembly fit into a groove on the cart with one big bolt holding them in place. the ram/gear pivot on that bolt. On the older models i believe the ram is part of the cart. One thing I forgot to mention re the spring is that the spring has a loop on each end. The loops hook the bearing bolts on the each side of the cart. On 4 bearing models the springs hook to the rear bearing bolt on each side. They run along the frame from one side around the back of the machine as I described in my last post along the frame up the other side. As for posting pics, I'm not that advanced. Only recently learned how to e-mail them. If you can post pics I can tell you what you have. SS is not a big company. Just a few employees and the head guy. No B.S. which is great. If they don't answer the phone, they are busy or not there. I have been to their place a number or years ago. I think they have since moved. The cart may be binding due to bad bearing(s), debris under the cart, or you may need shims between the cart and the plate the bearings bolt to. there is one plate on each side that bolt to the bottom of the cart.

it's definitely an older model, 2 bearings and small cart ram. Two bolts hold it down. I had the whole thing apart today, replaced a bearing that rides under the spring. slides much better now, still not perfect. But i think the angle that the machine it sitting at is helping the binding. if you can email me the photo's I'll post them

[email protected]

thanks for all the help !!!
 
Hi Guys,

I'm shopping for a new splitter and have been seriously considering the Super-Split. Which model do ya'll run and are there any to stay away from? I'm leaning towards the "Heavy Duty" model with the Robins engine. I understand the Special Edition has more grunt...but perhaps it's overkill?

Thanks!

-Mark

Hi,

I believe going more than the J model is overkill! I have the J model and it rocks! If your a big time wood business get the bigger model.....but until then, save some jack and hang with the "J" Hope this helps!:chainsaw:
 
Hi,

I believe going more than the J model is overkill! I have the J model and it rocks! If your a big time wood business get the bigger model.....but until then, save some jack and hang with the "J" Hope this helps!:chainsaw:

I would have to agree. In fact, I often (mostly) run mine at part throttle... it still has plenty of speed and power, plus the engine is super quiet and fuel efficient when run like this. The only time I crank the throttle all the way up is if I'm in a big hurry or I know I'm going to need the extra power for a tough round.

BTW, I bought my like new SS (used with <50 cords run through it) for $1400. I've seen only three come through CL over the last two years in the New England area, all sold right away. These things last a long time, are simple to rebuild, and most owners hold on to them for a loooonnnggg time, so good luck finding a used machine, because they are rare and go quick.
 
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