Why are my chain joiner links breaking?

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J D

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I've had 3 joiner links brake one after another in fairly quick succession (within 2-3 sharpens) on the same chain. They were "Longer" branded links a friend gave me. Is it likely they're just cheap rubbish or is there something else I could be missing? Cheers
 
"Longer" is made in China. It is promoted over here as well by internet dealers and very popular with homeowners because of their cheap price (almost 1/3 of Stihl prices) . Haven't tested them so far but I hear no complaints. Oregon bars are made in China as well, so you can't really blame people buying Longer.

Your link failures may well be related to the steel grades/hardening process during manufacturing.
 
I've had 3 joiner links brake one after another in fairly quick succession (within 2-3 sharpens) on the same chain. They were "Longer" branded links a friend gave me. Is it likely they're just cheap rubbish or is there something else I could be missing? Cheers
With friends like that.......
They are Chinese crapolium "steel", people bring them in to NZ for cents and then on sell them for slightly less than quality ones, all the time claiming they are fantastic- when in reality, you might as well loop some wire through the holes in the two end chain links and run that with more security.
 
"Longer" , then they don't fit the grooves in the sprocket, that would cause the chain to climb the sprocket in that spot increasing tension at that point . Probably not good for more then just the chain .
All links should be the same length..
Sorry missed that as the brand. Sleepy me.
 
"Longer" , then they don't fit the grooves in the sprocket, that would cause the chain to climb the sprocket in that spot increasing tension at that point . Probably not good for more then just the chain .
All links should be the same length..

"Longer" is the clever brand name made up by some translator in the big red flag nation- not a reference to any oversized tie strap.
 
"Longer" , then they don't fit the grooves in the sprocket, that would cause the chain to climb the sprocket in that spot increasing tension at that point . Probably not good for more then just the chain .
All links should be the same length..

Hope he has put the links in the right direction ....
 
"Longer" , then they don't fit the grooves in the sprocket, that would cause the chain to climb the sprocket in that spot increasing tension at that point . Probably not good for more then just the chain .
All links should be the same length..
The brand name is "Longer". They are the same pitch & guage as the chain. After the first one broke I even filed the underside of the joiner a tad so it matched the rest of the chains wear & would not put additional stress on the joiner... Didn't make much of a difference from what I can tell
 
The brand name is "Longer". They are the same pitch & guage as the chain. After the first one broke I even filed the underside of the joiner a tad so it matched the rest of the chains wear & would not put additional stress on the joiner... Didn't make much of a difference from what I can tell

Could be you are over spinning the rivet and making it a tight link.
Add that to the soft as chips link and they will snap for sure.
 
Could be you are over spinning the rivet and making it a tight link.
Add that to the soft as chips link and they will snap for sure.
It was the friend that gave me the links that made the first join, & when it broke that was the first thing I suggested... I double checked & subsequent joins were nice & mobile
 
The brand name is "Longer". They are the same pitch & guage as the chain. After the first one broke I even filed the underside of the joiner a tad so it matched the rest of the chains wear & would not put additional stress on the joiner... Didn't make much of a difference from what I can tell
This makes me think those links are not for your chain which you fail to specify. Spur or rim drive? Only the distance between drive links is standard,. Tie strap and cutter holes and pin space is 1 value. Hole space in drive link seperate value. Manufacturer can make up their own or copy one existing combination. There is an up and down to the pieces. Hole in drive link and pivot pin on preset vary in diameter.

There are joining links on eBay that say applicable for multiple brand and code I find different in spacing and pin diameter.

The Upstart .325 chain copies the Oregon code letter labeling but not the Oregon splicing parts for that product. There are multiple splicing part choices in Oregon .325 for various chain code,. Even if limited to 0.050 gauge.
 
I bought some too for a couple dollars on ebay. I peen mine with a hammer and have had two break so far. Just 1 side cracks can't remember which side.

Nope won't buy them again. It was good practice learning to use a punch and a hammer and a homemade anvil.

I was using them also for replacing single cutters on pretty stuffed old loops of chain some had 5 or 6 cutters replaced. So only using the half and the other side the cutter. Those ones never seemed to break
 
This makes me think those links are not for your chain which you fail to specify. Spur or rim drive? Only the distance between drive links is standard,. Tie strap and cutter holes and pin space is 1 value. Hole space in drive link seperate value. Manufacturer can make up their own or copy one existing combination. There is an up and down to the pieces. Hole in drive link and pivot pin on preset vary in diameter.

There are joining links on eBay that say applicable for multiple brand and code I find different in spacing and pin diameter.

The Upstart .325 chain copies the Oregon code letter labeling but not the Oregon splicing parts for that product. There are multiple splicing part choices in Oregon .325 for various chain code,. Even if limited to 0.050 gauge.
Chain is Husqvarna brand full comp 3/8 Semi-chisel. Rim sprocket was a bit worn but not excessively. Presets & tie straps were definitely installed the right way up & felt like a snug fit. My reasoning for filing the underside was so that the joiner link wouldn't bear more pressure than the rest running along the bar, but that was probably unnecessary. Interesting to learn that the drive link hole & pivot pin can vary in diameter between manufacturers... I might have to run them by the micrometer. Cheers
 
I bought some too for a couple dollars on ebay. I peen mine with a hammer and have had two break so far. Just 1 side cracks can't remember which side.

Nope won't buy them again. It was good practice learning to use a punch and a hammer and a homemade anvil.

I was using them also for replacing single cutters on pretty stuffed old loops of chain some had 5 or 6 cutters replaced. So only using the half and the other side the cutter. Those ones never seemed to break.
At first I thought if they're rubbish there will be complaints about them all over the net. Started to second guess myself when I couldn't find any. Nice to know it's not just me.
 
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