Wind-bent heavy leaner...any special way to cut?

[taylor6400]

I have a cottonwood in a field by itself that in a recent storm was bent way over. Its a fairly good sized tree for being bent the way it is. Probably close to 24" at the stump. The butt end is still straight up to 20ft maybe then the entire canopy is bent leaning over. I have never cut a tree that is leaning this hard, and Cottonwood is fairly soft too. Whats the propper cutting technique to fell this thing? Notch, then bore cut and release? Or can you just notch and cut a standard backcut? I know I know...pictures. I will try to snap one tonight. Planning to cut it Sat morning.

Question 2...Burn the wood next winter or give it away?

 

[blueatlascedar]

I would notch the tree by 1/3, bore in the center and then hit it from the back cut. I would give the wood away if you can find someone to take cottonwood

 

[cbolyard]

I wouldn't want to burn cottonwood either, except maybe in a bonfire outside.

 

[taylor6400]

my cousin has an OWB so hel burn it if i dont want it for my IWB. probly give him the wood. i had heard not great things for cottonwood!

 

[blueatlascedar]

yeah the cottonwood would be fine for the OWB, because you can leave the trunk pieces large so he'll get the most bang for his buck. People round here burn old power line poles or whatever they get their hands on with those set ups. I usually dump all of our evergreen removals at one of their places to use. I'd rather see it used than in a hole somewhere.

 

[blueatlascedar]

metal zipper is the classic zipper type, found mostly in jeans today. The teeth are not a coil, but are individual pieces of metal moulded into shape and set on the zipper tape at regular intervals. Metal zippers are made in brass, aluminium and nickel, according to the metal used for teeth making. All these zippers are basically made from flat wire. A special type of metal zipper is made from pre-formed wire, usually brass but sometimes other metals too. Only a few companies in the world have the technology. These type of pre-formed metal zippers are mainly used in high grade jeanswear, workwear, etc., where high strength is required and zippers need to withstand tough washing.

What has this to do with this thread?

 

[demographic]

What has this to do with this thread?

Nothing, like the rest of the posts made by that username.

 

[blueatlascedar]

Nothing, like the rest of the posts made by that username.

Is he just some spammer with too much time on their hands?

 

[demographic]

Is he just some spammer with too much time on their hands?

Dunno mate, I've reported it and by the looks of their rep bar it looks like I'm not the only one who is unimpressed with them.

I'm sorry that I don't have anything useful to add to this thread, to be totally honest I wanted to learn something myself which is why I looked on here.

 

[Brian VT]

Newb here.
Why is the bore and release preferable ? Less chance of barber chair ?
Also, what's a rule-of-thumb thickness to leave the backstrap ?
I tried this method on a white birch and it went well.

 

[blueatlascedar]

Newb here.
Why is the bore and release preferable ? Less chance of barber chair ?
Also, what's a rule-of-thumb thickness to leave the backstrap ?
I tried this method on a white birch and it went well.

For me personally, each tree is unique in it's own way for a leaner. We don't have pics to go by, but yes, boring will alleviate some of the risks in a vicious barber chair. And with how much back wood to leave, again is based on several factors, species, overall diameter, degree of lean. I just like to bore to help reduce any unexpected surprises.
Welcome to AS Brian

 

[Tree Pig]

For me personally, each tree is unique in it's own way for a leaner. We don't have pics to go by, but yes, boring will alleviate some of the risks in a vicious barber chair. And with how much back wood to leave, again is based on several factors, species, overall diameter, degree of lean. I just like to bore to help reduce any unexpected surprises.
Welcome to AS Brian

Good info, I agree 100% bore cut is a great tool for leaners and some decayed trees. Just be sure you have appropriate equipment (good enough saw with proper chain... do not attempt with safety or low kickback chain). I believe Ekka had some good videos of bore cuts on youtube. Also bore cut is a little more advanced technique so if you havent done one before do some research on how to do it correctly.

Bore cut video

 

[buzz sawyer]

Newb here.
Why is the bore and release preferable ? Less chance of barber chair ?
Also, what's a rule-of-thumb thickness to leave the backstrap ?
I tried this method on a white birch and it went well.

A good rule of thumb is 80/10/10 - Width of the notch is about 80% of diameter. Leave a hinge and backstrap about 10% of the diameter. For a 20" tree, the notch would be 16" wide, 2" hinge, 2" backstrap. Yes, this helps relieve some of the stress and reduces the chance for a BC. Also not a bad technique for a regular takedown when you want to maintain control of the fall as long a possible. Probably not real helpful after you reach 24" dia.

As blueatlascedar said, each tree is unique. Practice on some straight ones before getting into a leaner. Hint - make the top angle cut first. Then you can cut the horizontal bottom cut and see when you reach your first cut - for a more accurate notch.

 

[Brian VT]

Welcome to AS Brian

LOL. I've been here a while. I just haven't dealt with any real leaners yet and have only used that felling technique once, on a straight tree that posed little risk. I practiced boring on logs on the sawbuck and tall stumps before falling a tree with it. I'm not yet comfortable with setting things in action that fast (the release) but I am starting to see the benefits it can have.

 

[Brian VT]

Hint - make the top angle cut first. Then you can cut the horizontal bottom cut and see when you reach your first cut - for a more accurate notch.

I agree.

 

[blueatlascedar]

Sorry for the misread there brother, the newbie comment got me , but you've received some great advice so far by the guys who replied so far. Practice on some that are less critical and Stihl_o made a great suggestion by watching some videos on boring. But IMHO practice will build your confidence the most. Happy sawing :greenchainsaw:

 

[TreeClimber57]

Good info, I agree 100% bore cut is a great tool for leaners and some decayed trees. Just be sure you have appropriate equipment (good enough saw with proper chain... do not attempt with safety or low kickback chain). I believe Ekka had some good videos of bore cuts on youtube. Also bore cut is a little more advanced technique so if you havent done one before do some research on how to do it correctly.

Bore cut video

Agreed with above. Also be very careful on the lean, get a good handle on where the weight is going (it may be obvious - but be sure). Also be careful, if a heavy leaner, it may break away before you expect it to - hence the above recommendation to bore cut it.

How tall is the tree overall?? Do you have any pics.

 

[treemandan]

What has this to do with this thread?

WHat? yer not keeping up on yer zipper skills?

 

[blueatlascedar]

WHat? yer not keeping up on yer zipper skills?

LOL, I guess not :monkey:

 

[Huskybill]

You might want to put a chain around the trunk above your knotch so if it barber chairs the chain will hold it.


In my beginning of wood burning I would burn any wood. Until I had a few cords of willow. It smelled like the swamp was burning. I only burnt it after 12 am at night. The neighborhood smelled bad. Nasty wood.