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Wood splitter layout

Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by JoshNY, Jan 6, 2019.

  1. JoshNY

    JoshNY ArboristSite Member

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    Got a home built wood splitter cheap to fix up. Got a 13gpm pump, a 10 gallon tank,and return line filter setup.
    This is what I came up with as far as best layout. What do you think?
    I think the nipple on the filter will need an elbow, but other than that seems workable.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  2. homemade

    homemade Certified Chainsaw Tester

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    Just watch the black iron fittings on the pressurized side of things.
     
  3. JoshNY

    JoshNY ArboristSite Member

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    Pardon my ignorance on this, but what is the problem with black iron, and what should I use instead?

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  4. homemade

    homemade Certified Chainsaw Tester

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    You can connect your hoses directly from pump output to valve then to each side of the cylinder. Black iron isn’t rated for the pressures of a hydro system.

    On the return to the filter and back to the tank never sees much pressure.
     
  5. homemade

    homemade Certified Chainsaw Tester

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    You can connect your hoses directly from pump output to valve then to each side of the cylinder. Black iron isn’t rated for the pressures of a hydro system.

    On the return to the filter and back to the tank never sees much pressure.
     
  6. JoshNY

    JoshNY ArboristSite Member

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    Ok, I don't have black iron from the pump to valve, just on the returns.

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  7. 4seasons

    4seasons ArboristSite Guru

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    What size is that cylinder? It looks pretty small from the pictures. Also check the elbow and pipe attached to the cylinder to make sure it can handle 3000+ psi. I would also remove any 90 degree elbows as they generate heat.
    Is that the valve mounted under the tank? I would consider moving it closer to the splitting area so you don't have to stretch out to reach it while holding an odd shape log on the beam.
    Just my personal preference, but I have to have my beam waist high so I don't have to bend over. But if you leave it low you might want to consider a skid plate under your hydraulics so nothing gets cut while towing it into the woods.
     
  8. Kevin in Ohio

    Kevin in Ohio Addicted to ArboristSite

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    As others have said, no standard pipe fitting on the pressure side of things. It's best to use long sweep elbows but honestly, you don't want to spend the extra money for them. They are 2-3 times more than standard 90's and with the low GPM you have, heat shouldn't be extremely bad with the amount of storage you have. Go to a local hydraulic shop, Ag equipment dealer or some auto/farm stores have them as well. Watch your thread sizes and fitting groups as some of them get "close" but aren't compatable. You may need some adapters.
    [​IMG]

    These are long sweep elbows.

    If you can do metalwork, you can look in my splitter album to see a simple way to make your own adapter plate for the pump. Take into consideration your hose runs for the positioning. Hoses and fitting are expensive. Make sure your motor runs good first though! You might need a starter rope. :lol:

    Tradeoffs on the height of it. Low means you can roll the bigger stuff on but leaning for everything kills my back after a while. Just depends on how much you are planning to do and what size wood you generally deal with.
     
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  9. JoshNY

    JoshNY ArboristSite Member

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    Thanks for the feedback so far.
    The engine, as ugly as it looks, runs great. I was able to start it with the 110v electric starter.
    The height is a touch low, not as bad as it may appear in the pics.
    I am planning on splitting about 15-20 face cords per year, so not really heavy use.

    Only have about $550 into it, including the purchase price, pump,fittings, and tank.

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  10. york

    york ArboristSite Operative

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    Hi,what is the size of the hdy. cylinder ?
     
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  11. JoshNY

    JoshNY ArboristSite Member

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    Im not sure, have not measured it. It is a bit small, so I'm hoping it will do the job.

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  12. york

    york ArboristSite Operative

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    Looks like about 3 maybe 3.5 inch....you may not get enough push..
     
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  13. 4seasons

    4seasons ArboristSite Guru

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    That is what I was thinking from the picture as well, probably a 3. If it is 3 you are looking at 8 to 12 tons of force. With this little power a 4 way is out of the question. You also may need to thin out your wedge to a more like knife edge. With a 3.5 cylinder you can get 12-16 tons. But on the other hand with a small cylinder even a 13 gpm can get 6-8 second cycle times. Although it will probably drop to low gear in the split giving closer to a 14 second cycle time.

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  14. homemade

    homemade Certified Chainsaw Tester

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    +1 on keeping the beam about waist high. Mine is just above my knee and it sucks. I’m looking at building some car ramps to pull it on, and a taller jack.
     
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  15. york

    york ArboristSite Operative

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    Yep,ya got to get it up,to at least 34 inch-had a T-Wolf splitter that was knee high and got rid of it,for that reason...
     
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  16. rancher2

    rancher2 ArboristSite Guru

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    I like my log splitter's waist high also. I have a log lift for raising rounds. I don't like bending over to run a splitter.
     
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  17. JoshNY

    JoshNY ArboristSite Member

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    Well, I got it all togeather and operational. Things seemed to be great, motor ran good, pump worked, no leaks.
    Extended the cylinder, the push plate came out to the wedge and the cylinder kept going. Bent a big arch in the rod, broke the return stroke feed pipe off the top of the cylinder and oil went everywhere before I knew what happened.
    Upon further inspection, the cylinder is way longer than it should be, appears to be a loader cylinder for a small tractor and not up to the task.
    I have ordered a new 4x24 hydraulic cylinder, when I get that done I'll post an update.

    I was really happy with the way it turned out otherwise!




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