• Please be aware that we have recently gotten a wave of users that, when researched, are found to be from Nigeria. They are trying to sell products and asking to be paid through Zelle or Venmo leaving users with no recourse if they don't ship the product. If you suspect this activity please contact admin and we will research their information to verify their location.

ArboristSite.com Sponsors
Peak Industries


Woods furnace choices

ChoppyChoppy

ChoppyChoppy

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Jun 17, 2013
Messages
9,865
Age
37
Location
AK
I'll have to ask him.

He has his in the basement and a duct goes to the 1st floor.

Yeah he got it pretty cheap as well, I think from Tractor Supply.

What model does he have? I haven’t had any issues out of mine. Except for it being a wood monster, I probably wouldn’t own one either if it wasn’t for the price I got. I have mine hooked to duct work I ran through out the house and it has no problem heating the entire thing. I have the 1557m.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
brenndatomu

brenndatomu

Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
Joined
Feb 25, 2012
Messages
2,481
Location
NE/Central Ohio
So My Ashley 1440E arrived two days ago and there was a huge credit card issue, part of it was my doing. There were some price drops and some other retailers with lower prices that I got Tractor Supply to price match. Multiple charges on card that have yet to be resolved. So I decided to un-box the stove in the interim and inspect it since the last stove I bought had welding issues discovered a few years after the install. I am posting the photos of my discovery after un-boxing and I highly encourage as many of you to chime in on this build. At present time Brenndatomu advice is coming back to haunt me... Though the stove retails at anywhere between $2,200.00 - $3,000.00 I paid $1,360.00 which is less than I paid for my first stove 28-3500 $1,500 View attachment 616119 View attachment 616120 View attachment 616121 View attachment 616122 View attachment 616123 View attachment 616124 View attachment 616125 View attachment 616126 View attachment 616119 View attachment 616119 View attachment 616120 .00. It was hard to pass up ARGH!!!!
Well that's disappointing!
What the heck punched that thing from the inside out?!
 
Nickatnite

Nickatnite

"If a tree falls in the forest I can hear it"
Joined
Nov 6, 2017
Messages
38
Age
54
Location
NH
Well that's disappointing!
What the heck punched that thing from the inside out?!
I believe the puncture is from the shipping company, the rest of it is poor quality control in manufacturing. I have been dealing with USSC since the 11th of this month. I am getting nothing but the run around.

STAY AWAY FROM USSC!!!!!!
 
JRHAWK9

JRHAWK9

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
May 8, 2010
Messages
391
Location
Lake Delton, WI
Website
www.fquick.com
I believe the puncture is from the shipping company, the rest of it is poor quality control in manufacturing. I have been dealing with USSC since the 11th of this month. I am getting nothing but the run around.

STAY AWAY FROM USSC!!!!!!
You may like this then. USSC whining about something which a small company of 6 was able to comply with.
 

Attachments

blades

blades

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Nov 19, 2008
Messages
3,539
Location
SE WI
had a hot blast - not a fan of USSC both sides of the coin were a pain to deal with- and those 2 550cfm blowers blew their bearings 1/2 way into the first season. season 2 installed Englander NC30 upstairs never looked back, pulled and dumped the hotblast when I sold the house last summer.
 

Alex

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jan 3, 2015
Messages
35
Age
38
Location
Central Indiana
I have been running a Clayton 1802g for three seasons now. I have had no issues except for not really liking the draft blower hooked up to the thermostat. Ended up just running it manually and did away with the draft blower. I heat about 3000 sq ft, always at least 74* inside. I probably burn 3-4 cords a season.
 
Iaff113

Iaff113

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jul 31, 2015
Messages
329
Age
33
Location
Frederick
Well if you do keep it make sure to keep your blower oiled I do mine twice a year and they have been cranking right along.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
aokpops

aokpops

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
May 28, 2005
Messages
2,707
Age
59
Location
ohio
2 blower motor, for some reason must be cheaper to make them , I never understand it . The ones I had were junk from the start
 
Nickatnite

Nickatnite

"If a tree falls in the forest I can hear it"
Joined
Nov 6, 2017
Messages
38
Age
54
Location
NH
You may like this then. USSC whining about something which a small company of 6 was able to comply with.
Just received Ashley 1440E stove replacement on Thursday. Nearly a two month turnaround from the first crap one they sent. I am nervous since I can't get it into the basement until at least spring for a run up... long after the return date! Think I will drag it out to the driveway and fire it up for a test run. I just can't stand being outdoors in these sub-zero temperatures. Never bothered me a few years ago. USSC stove purchase has to be worst buying experiences of all time.
 
Nickatnite

Nickatnite

"If a tree falls in the forest I can hear it"
Joined
Nov 6, 2017
Messages
38
Age
54
Location
NH
Well that's disappointing!
What the heck punched that thing from the inside out?!
Replacement came on Thursday with the same puncture same side, however not nearly as bad. I so want to swear out load...!!! Let's just say USSC and their shippers are Ass-clowns!
 
Nickatnite

Nickatnite

"If a tree falls in the forest I can hear it"
Joined
Nov 6, 2017
Messages
38
Age
54
Location
NH
You may like this then. USSC whining about something which a small company of 6 was able to comply with.
I just finished reading his plea. First off I agree with most of what he said in re-guards to the industry collapsing into a few hands. If he and others in wood burning appliance manufacturing think this gov... EPA is their drinking buddy they are sadly mistaken. The EPA's goal is to "Jack-Boot" them right our of business. He makes another comment about previous years manufacturing cost on average of $1000.00 per unit. He claims the new EPA regulations "Step 1" have increased purchase price increase to $2000.00. Well if tact-welding six perforated tubes to the upper belly constitutes an overall $1000.00 increase he is definitely doing something wrong. I know it is hyperbole but the idiots buy it (no pun intended) but hey... I bought the stove I did based on cost, reviews. I am in need of a replacement and could not wait and waiting makes me subject to paying through the "A"-hole in a year or two time for so called technology that I can't equate the dollar value.
 
Nickatnite

Nickatnite

"If a tree falls in the forest I can hear it"
Joined
Nov 6, 2017
Messages
38
Age
54
Location
NH
Well that's disappointing!
What the heck punched that thing from the inside out?!
Well spring is finally here and thank goodness... My twenty year old sons finally killed my Englander because they refuse to listen to me on the operation of a wood stove. They just want heat at no expense when I am not home. They killed it in early March while it was still cold by over firing it. I think that it has damaged the flue but won't know until I rent a boom lift from depot. Also the blower was going at the same time, so my purchase in Nov was well conceived.

So for punishment I had the both of them help bring the 600lb Ashley 1440E down into the basement through the bulkhead, that in it's self was an evolution! I started studying what it will take to get it up and running in time for this fall and have discovered I might be in trouble for a safely operating stove. I did not take into consideration that the flue take off is at the back instead of where the Englander was on the top. This will add a third 90 in the 30 ft run, the first 90 will have a 40inch run to the second 90 that will exit through the concrete foundation 3ft to the third 90. That run is 25-30ft of exterior flue. I can't see an option of adding some 45's to reduced sluggish draft. I guess my posting is for advice... or will I be OK with that much flue run? or will adding a barometric Draft/damper aide in operation?
 
Mustang71

Mustang71

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Sep 30, 2016
Messages
2,109
Age
31
Location
Somerset NY
Sounds like your flue is tall enough outside to create some good draft. The issue i have with 90s is the soot sits in the horizontal part of the flue. I try to avoid hard 90s as much as I can. If you can do 45s or something like that to create a vertical flue it will work much better but I'm sure it will still draft with 3 90s.

I put a baro damper in this year and ended up capping it off. Yea I had controlled draft and longer burn times but it was not burning hot enough to heat the house. It also cooled the stainless steel chimney down a lot and was making creosote.

I can get the same effect as a baro but with better heat if I get the furnace hot and load it up. It burns slow and hot due to the lack of in coming oxygen. But my chimney is about 15 feet in height so I don't get crazy draft.
 
brenndatomu

brenndatomu

Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
Joined
Feb 25, 2012
Messages
2,481
Location
NE/Central Ohio
Well spring is finally here and thank goodness... My twenty year old sons finally killed my Englander because they refuse to listen to me on the operation of a wood stove. They just want heat at no expense when I am not home. They killed it in early March while it was still cold by over firing it. I think that it has damaged the flue but won't know until I rent a boom lift from depot. Also the blower was going at the same time, so my purchase in Nov was well conceived.

So for punishment I had the both of them help bring the 600lb Ashley 1440E down into the basement through the bulkhead, that in it's self was an evolution! I started studying what it will take to get it up and running in time for this fall and have discovered I might be in trouble for a safely operating stove. I did not take into consideration that the flue take off is at the back instead of where the Englander was on the top. This will add a third 90 in the 30 ft run, the first 90 will have a 40inch run to the second 90 that will exit through the concrete foundation 3ft to the third 90. That run is 25-30ft of exterior flue. I can't see an option of adding some 45's to reduced sluggish draft. I guess my posting is for advice... or will I be OK with that much flue run? or will adding a barometric Draft/damper aide in operation?
With that much height you'll be fine with an extra 90...but I would still try to avoid it if possible...use 2 45s instead of 2 90s. Put one 45 at the furnace...run up to the height of the chimney breech, then another 45. That way the only 90 will be at the bottom of the chimney. If you don't have the room to pull that off, meh, don't sweat it, should be OK with 90s (better with 45s though, just to be clear)
And I would still install a baro damper...with that much chimney height you'll have crazy high draft...at least when its windy, if not all the time.
 
Marine5068

Marine5068

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Nov 20, 2009
Messages
1,930
Location
Madoc, Ontario, Canada
Website
naturalsculptures.webs.com
They are not cheap but good stuff never is. There are many that may fit the bill for you. You can go to ********** they are a good source of stove information. Many threads many more opinions take each one with a big ole grain of salt do your research you'll be fine.
Blaze King King is $3500...WOW
 
Marine5068

Marine5068

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Nov 20, 2009
Messages
1,930
Location
Madoc, Ontario, Canada
Website
naturalsculptures.webs.com
Any stove will burn green wood. But you'll be battling creosote and if you get an EPA stove, you wont benefit from the technology. I notice a stark difference between 1 year seasoned wood and 2 year seasoned wood in the heat output compared to air input and length of burn.

We have a Hearthstone Heritage 8022 and a Jotul Rockland 550 in the fireplace.
Exactly.
Never burn green wood, you risk chimney fires that can burn down the house killing you and the family.
Plus when you're burning you're wasting all the heat. The stored wood energy is used to get the water out of the splits and goes up the chimney instead of into the house as heat.
Just cut wood to use two years ahead. It's just as easy as cutting for next year, you just need to get double the wood when you start.
 
brenndatomu

brenndatomu

Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
Joined
Feb 25, 2012
Messages
2,481
Location
NE/Central Ohio
Exactly.
Never burn green wood, you risk chimney fires that can burn down the house killing you and the family.
Plus when you're burning you're wasting all the heat. The stored wood energy is used to get the water out of the splits and goes up the chimney instead of into the house as heat.
Just cut wood to use two years ahead. It's just as easy as cutting for next year, you just need to get double the wood when you start.
Or even better, when time allows and the opportunity presents itself, get enough stocked up to be 3 years ahead...you'll never have a "sizzler" again, even Oak.
 
Marine5068

Marine5068

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Nov 20, 2009
Messages
1,930
Location
Madoc, Ontario, Canada
Website
naturalsculptures.webs.com
Or even better, when time allows and the opportunity presents itself, get enough stocked up to be 3 years ahead...you'll never have a "sizzler" again, even Oak.
Agreed. 3 years ahead(or more) is best.
I had some Red Oak seasoning for two years and it still sizzled a bit when burned. I was surprised, but not now.
Oak is a pain in the butt that way.
I even have a few Maple splits sizzle from time to time and I season them for 1-2 years (12-24 months).
 
Top