Worth it to go to a 346xp top end on a 350?

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if you go with the 353 top end, What carb setup is on it? Since the 357/359 intake, air cleaner horn and carb fits right in. You might consider that in your build too.
Can't see any numbers on it without removal but it doesnt look remarkable

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I was able to find the tag that says 52cc which makes sense, mike acres site lists the 45mm 350 as a 350epa.

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Cleaned up some
cbb68b45d7916a8784409bef78328ec8.jpg


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So what method did you use to sand off the transfer?
Was the lining damaged like that before you started?
 
So what method did you use to sand off the transfer?
Was the lining damaged like that before you started?
Started with hand sanding with 800 grit and made no progress, went down to a 320grit with lube and got about 90 percent but i could still (and still do) feel ridges so i chucked some 600ish grit into a drill and slowly worked it around with some lube. I still feel the ridges and my finger nail still catches all over the place...but in doing so the paper ate the coating

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You chimed in the poster is looking for help.? I’d love to hear about your saws done right? How many of these 357 Xp parts do you use in your clamshell saw builds?

https://www.partstree.com/models/357-husqvarna-chainsaw-2010-02/carburettor-air-filter-2/
I get the idea of a lighter saw with lots of power. We can see the difference on who builds the saws right and who doesn’t by the sounds of the saws. Some guys do an awesome job on there builds on you tube.

You don’t change the boot, the separator/clamp, air horn and larger airfilter for more flow on your ported saws? I just purchased $140 on 359/357 Xp intake parts for two saws. Without the cost of the carb it’s $70 for each saw to do it right. Huztl has the carb. Second order.

I didn’t mean to step on anyone’s toes is there a pecking order here?
I'm not sure what you're getting at here. You spoke as though you had experienced with the 357/9 setup on a 346 so I wondered what you had done because this is the first I'd remembered you talking about it. As for me, I've done the bigger carb, elbow, and filter on a couple of my hacked on 346s. 42 and 44.3mm. The one I've done the most to, the weed whip 44.3 with crank stuffers, still uses a 159. That may change though if the modified tank vent I added does not help with fueling. People have a full range of opinions on whether the bigger carb is worth it, on stock or modified saws. Personally I think some throttle response is lost on all of them with a 199. I strongly urge you to avoid huztl for all but the most basic parts for these. You may pay a little more for an OEM 199 or EL 42 but they are plentiful and much more consistent once re-built properly. I have seen more than one 359 in the past six months that had a replacement Chinese FT/huztl carb on them that had provisions for a primer bulb. This feature was never offered from the factory on those models and i suspect they were actually crappy copies of 350/346 primer carbs. The next one I come across I will measure the venturi and see.
 
Started with hand sanding with 800 grit and made no progress, went down to a 320grit with lube and got about 90 percent but i could still (and still do) feel ridges so i chucked some 600ish grit into a drill and slowly worked it around with some lube. I still feel the ridges and my finger nail still catches all over the place...but in doing so the paper ate the coating

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The paper didi it.... the dog ate my homework........ :laugh:
Well the piston replacement option might be off the table now- was there and that damage is low on the cylinder, possibly not terminal- but it sounds like you have talked yourself into a complete top end.
Slow steady methodical -cut little/check often when sanding cylinders for future reference.
 
I'm not sure what you're getting at here. You spoke as though you had experienced with the 357/9 setup on a 346 so I wondered what you had done because this is the first I'd remembered you talking about it. As for me, I've done the bigger carb, elbow, and filter on a couple of my hacked on 346s. 42 and 44.3mm. The one I've done the most to, the weed whip 44.3 with crank stuffers, still uses a 159. That may change though if the modified tank vent I added does not help with fueling. People have a full range of opinions on whether the bigger carb is worth it, on stock or modified saws. Personally I think some throttle response is lost on all of them with a 199. I strongly urge you to avoid huztl for all but the most basic parts for these. You may pay a little more for an OEM 199 or EL 42 but they are plentiful and much more consistent once re-built properly. I have seen more than one 359 in the past six months that had a replacement Chinese FT/huztl carb on them that had provisions for a primer bulb. This feature was never offered from the factory on those models and i suspect they were actually crappy copies of 350/346 primer carbs. The next one I come across I will measure the venturi and see.

Your right I purchased the bigger Venturi carbs on eBay going by the numbers you guys posted. No primer bulb. You compare the larger Venturi carb with the orginal carb there’s quite a difference in the size of the Venturi. I haven’t measured it but you can see it.
 
The paper didi it.... the dog ate my homework........ :laugh:
Well the piston replacement option might be off the table now- was there and that damage is low on the cylinder, possibly not terminal- but it sounds like you have talked yourself into a complete top end.
Slow steady methodical -cut little/check often when sanding cylinders for future reference.
I use a ball hone from enginehones.com I go with the smaller size hone just to clean up the bore. Just jog the drill pushing the hone in and jog it out. Don’t run the drill fast. I use the finest grit stones. After honing I smooth it out with 800/1500 grit paper. Carefully

https://www.enginehones.com/niapho.html
 
I use a ball hone from enginehones.com I go with the smaller size hone just to clean up the bore. Just jog the drill pushing the hone in and jog it out. Don’t run the drill fast. I use the finest grit stones. After honing I smooth it out with 800/1500 grit paper. Carefully

https://www.enginehones.com/niapho.html

1500 might be a bit of overkill? You want a bit of cross hatching to give the ring/rings some bite.
But yes, slow and light pressure, spend plenty of time- not max RPM and max pressure- bite through the coating and what is left is pretty soft!
 
It depends on what grit and size hone your using. If the bore feels rough when your done I go over it with fine grit paper. Just lightly. The cross hatch is still present. I use a honing oil but in the past I’ve used auto tranny atf. Don’t use any heavier oil. The oil keeps the stones lubed.
 
What about the bore sizes, most new pistons fit a-b bore sizes? What if we have a “c” cylinder and we put “a” size piston in it? Do you mic the bores and new piston? Just wondering?

I don’t like to hone everything, but when I do it’s a ball hone for nickasil stay thirsty my friends. Lol
 
What about the bore sizes, most new pistons fit a-b bore sizes? What if we have a “c” cylinder and we put “a” size piston in it? Do you mic the bores and new piston? Just wondering?

I don’t like to hone everything, but when I do it’s a ball hone for nickasil stay thirsty my friends. Lol
These STILL aren't motorcycles Bill... Have you ever checked the end gap on a new ring after you've ran ball hone in the jug?
 
So your not mic the bores to piston size? The first thing I asked the guy on eBay selling the Italian new 2100 cylinders is what size are they. I found out there “A” size. One size piston doesn’t fill all the cylinder sizes.
 
...but in doing so the paper ate the coating

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Which kit are you leaning toward? With all the choices, it's interesting to see which route people take.

I can help by suggesting not to use a 340 kit with a 359 carb.
 
So your not mic the bores to piston size? The first thing I asked the guy on eBay selling the Italian new 2100 cylinders is what size are they. I found out there “A” size. One size piston doesn’t fill all the cylinder sizes.
Never have mic'd a cylinder for the saws I work on. The tolerances are tighter nowadays. If I ever got into saws from the 70s I suppose I would have to but if I built those I also wouldn't be running a hone in my NLA jug...
 
When the correct size piston is used the heat transfer works. When the piston is too small the heat transfer doesn’t work and we get less compression. The reason the castiron and chrome bores were switched to nickasil for better heat transfer and air cooling.
 

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