You guys ought to be ashamed
- Thread starter brianmorgan17
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Vermonster
ArboristSite Operative
Best to stop throwing biscuits to this pooh stirrer living under a bridge. He's probably about 17 years old, 5'6" and about 250 on the hoof. Anyone who brags openly about how smart they are, really aren't that smart.
He wants to burn green wood. Fine, let him.
48, 6ft 175lb and I run 3.5 miles every AM. Anytime your in NEPA and want to go a few rounds let me know. Im not advocating burning green wood. I simply do not see the spending the time to stack and dry for another 5-10% heat (maybe) . The chart I posted a link to shows you only "loose" 15% by volume burning green over Kiln dried wood, so if I "loose" 5% by burning wood that't 35% instead of 20% who cares??? Im buying it for $150 a cord. Just do a little math.
Woodchucker Ron
ArboristSite Operative
planman just wondering how often you clean your chimney burning green wet wood? Have you ever thought of the creosote building up when your fire is just smoldering then opening the ash door to add air to it. Doesn't sound like a very good plan to me. Have you ever heard of or seen a chimney fire. I recommend you have some fire extinguishers handy because it seams to me it is just a matter of time before you experience it first hand.
Guys, ive both stacked and piled my oak here in NEPA and have observed no material difference Ive also burned 3 month old oak with noproblem once Ive gotten a nice bed of coals going. Once I get my inglenook ZC EPA fireplace up to temp I can burn just about anything. This year I had my wood guy dump 10 cord of hard maple in June and it already burns great.
I observe the the law of diminishing returns. The question is, does your investment of time and money drying and stacking pay off ??? Certainly not for me as I charge $250.00 hr. for my time. If any of you find a study or other proof that stacking makes any difference whatsoever please post. As for moisture, the argument of a 20% optimum also makes no sense to me. Why is 20% optimum ?, is 10% too little ??. Ive yet to find a study explaining the correlation between moisture %, burn time and heat output, but I suspect heat output is probably more dependent on your stoves heat transfer efficiency than wood moisture content. Best of luck. :msp_wub::msp_w00t::smile2:
Whew, $250. an hour for your time? How much wood could you stack in an hour? If you make that much, you should be able to pay somebody to stack your wood. Then you would have dry wood and no creosote.:msp_rolleyes:
blackdogon57
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks for the quote Dirtboy. I missed the 250 an hour bit. Had a good laugh when I read your post. Wish I had more customers that were willing to buy wet wood.
Guess I will start marketing to a more refined demographic. They seem to be in the know.
55, 5'9", 215 lbs., I never run when I can walk, never walk when I can stand, never stand when I can sit, never sit when I can lay down...
Ya' ought to be careful what ya' ask for.
Believe me, comin' out on top after a round or two has nothin' to do with being scrawny and wore-out from runnin' around the county every morning... any beer-drinkin' good-ol'-boy will teach you that.
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
I haven't read this whole thread so hopefully I'm not :deadhorse: but spending the time to cut-split-stack is worth it cuz...
1. The already fore-said "extra" heat
2. Safety of your home/family from chimney fires
3. Ease of building a fire before you leave for work in the morning and you don't have all day to putz around with "green" wood
4. Not having to climb on the roof and clean your chimney every week
5. Having plenty of wood stockpiled ahead so that when you get injured, ie: mess your back up or get jumped by Whitespider while you are running your 3.5 mi. every morning,
you won't have to start payin the man for oil, gas, whatever. JMO
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NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Anybody who has gone from burning green (35%?) or wet wood to burning wood that is dry (20% or less) can tell from that experience alone that there is way more than a 5% difference in heat output.
That's not even touching the creosote issue or others.
I'd suggest backing away from the numbers games and try burning some dry wood, in the real world. One load should do it - if you're a keen observer.
That's not even touching the creosote issue or others.
I'd suggest backing away from the numbers games and try burning some dry wood, in the real world. One load should do it - if you're a keen observer.
Actually Birch is a Deciduous tree and as such is considered Hardwood, but to put this statement in context - Conifers are softwoods ( pine, spruce cedar ect)
Birch is a soft hardwood as compared to the likes of Oak. It is a matter of density
MrWhoopee
ArboristSite Operative
Yes, I realized later what I had said, I appreciate that no one jumped my a$$. I have an issue with the concept that deciduous trees are hardwood by definition. Something wrong with the definition. Aspen and cottonwood are not hardwood by any stretch of the imagination. Soft hardwood, that's just an oxymoron. I have no experience with other birches, but paper birch is soft wood (I didn't say a softwood). Yes, it is a matter of density and I think that should be used to define "hardwood".
Well this was fun. I'm going to let the professor who's been burning wood for 3 whole years continue in his line of thought. It might be time to brush off the physics MINOR and perhaps take on a thermodynamics course. "Those who can..."
In the meantime, I'm going to get my 3 years c/s/s on hand ready and start on year 4.
And since we're playing the college degree thing, I'll also continue on with my life as an electrical engineer.
In the meantime, I'm going to get my 3 years c/s/s on hand ready and start on year 4.
And since we're playing the college degree thing, I'll also continue on with my life as an electrical engineer.
L O L
I design, engineer, and build (low voltage) electrical circuits and devices as part of my job.
But I'm wondering, since I dropped out'a high school... what does that make me??
I design, engineer, and build (low voltage) electrical circuits and devices as part of my job.
But I'm wondering, since I dropped out'a high school... what does that make me??
FLHX Storm
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An ADVANCED Mechanical Engineer with a PHD in Electrical Engineering! :msp_wink:
Vermonster
ArboristSite Operative
That makes you a super clever and smart guy who didn't have to take on any student loans like us other lowly "Professors". :msp_wink:
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
Someone that has a lot of common, and apparently also, a lot of not so common sense!
I have only ever met maybe a couple college professors that could survive if they ever had to go "off the grid" so to speak.
I work with a guy, a lab tech, super smart guy, as far as book learnin goes anyways, but when it comes times to actually go do some manual labor or operate equipment, that boy could tear up an anvil! Funny thing is, he grew up on a farm, dunno what happened, he's definitely not the country-boy-can-survive type...
Woodchucker Ron
ArboristSite Operative
Yea i know a few of these types too but i fill bad for this guys family (if he has one.) He's probably going to burn his house down.
I haven't read this whole thread so hopefully I'm not :deadhorse: but spending the time to cut-split-stack is worth it cuz...
1. The already fore-said "extra" heat
2. Safety of your home/family from chimney fires
3. Ease of building a fire before you leave for work in the morning and you don't have all day to putz around with "green" wood
4. Not having to climb on the roof and clean your chimney every week
5. Having plenty of wood stockpiled ahead so that when you get injured, ie: mess your back up or get jumped by Whitespider while you are running your 3.5 mi. every morning,
Hey mister smarty pants...!!!
Dont be jumpin in this pizzn match without stating your education prior. Sheesh the nerve of some guys...jump in and state some facts(true of course...) and doesnt feel the need to let us lay folk know we should listen because he be ejumacated more better.
Now let me state that i majored in "pizza" and minored in "female anotomy" so when i say green wood wont light i dont care how much energy or loss or whatever . It wont light without good dry wood. No light-no fire-no heat...no pizza- no female.
Guys, not to sideline the thread but can someone tell me why with so many electrical engineers around my electricity goes out when a deer farts in the neighborhood near a powerline ????
Does it have something to do with the moisture content of the poles? Or maybe the copper lines???
:msp_w00t:
J/k guys....(and FLHX)
Does it have something to do with the moisture content of the poles? Or maybe the copper lines???
:msp_w00t:
J/k guys....(and FLHX)
Well that's easy.
It's because they use college educated electrical engineers to design the power grids :hmm3grin2orange:
Now, us common-sense high school drop-out engineers would build in a contingency system with redundancy circuits and default switch-over... but hey, what do I know?? (Well... what do I know other than it seems to work in the circuits I design, engineer and build??)
