If you can't flip it, you can fill it, shorten the table, or mill the whole slab to the level of the damage. It looks like it'll still be 1.5" thick after re-milling. If you want it to look undamaged, milling it is the way to go.
If you belt sand the bottom and collect the sawdust, you can mix the sawdust with wood filler to get a wood filler that will take stain and look a lot more like the original wood.
You could also patch it. Take a circle saw to the bottom of both ends... On the ends of the table, cut about 1/4" from the bottom edge and as deep as the blade will go, then set the depth to 1/4" and cut across the bottom to free that board. You'll end up with an intentional-looking notch out on the bottom on both sides, and two 1/4" boards that can be cut up to drop in to the hole on the top. Route out that hole to be squareish and 1/4" deep, and use wood filler to fill it up to 1/4 where needed. It'll still look like a patch but it'll be patched with the original wood.
I kind of like the idea of pouring it full of epoxy. Poured epoxy would also let you seal the whole top and fill all those checks in the top, and give you a fun conversation piece (oh, we don't know who broke in here and tried to hatchet murder the furniture, could have been anybody).
Whatever you do, you should seal the table or it will keep checking. Epoxy it, stain and urethane it, rub it down with linseed oil, vegetable oil, mineral oil... all will preserve the wood and look nice. The oils look the most Iike raw wood, but you have to reapply it regularly.