Young Maple variety hasn't yet leafed

[kcarlson]

Hello,

I'm new to the board. I have a young maple variety tree that is about 9-11 inches around at the trunk. It hasn't leafed out yet. It looks like there are buds on the end of the branches and they are still small brown and pointy. The tree was fully leafed in the fall when we moved in.

We live on the Eastern end of the city and other trees started leafing out 2 weeks to a month ago depending on the species.

I noticed that at the base of the tree, the bark has chipped away and revealed some boring by insects. I treated it with Bayer insectiside and fertilizer combo stuff about 4 days ago.

With a pocket knife I scraped a small branch near the end and it is still green. I've also noticed that the suckers we cut off of it last year are again turning green and leafing but not the tree itself.

Is it possible that my tree is just a late bloomer or could there be something else going on. What are my next steps.

Weather wise, it's been a wet spring and I've watered with the auto sprinklers often and the soil is wet at the surface.

When we moved in, I already had 3 dead trees because the previous owner did not take care of them properly. I don't want to loose this one because trees are expensive enough.

 

[kcarlson]

I believe it is an autumn blaze maple.

Thanks

 

[S Mc]

K, welcome to the site.

It is impossible to tell for sure what is going on with your tree just from your description. Could you post some pictures? Please show the entire tree and a close up of the base as well, being sure to show the damage and borer activity you are seeing.

Here where we are, last fall had an early and severe freeze that really threw a lot of trees. I don't know if Aurora experienced that same weather event. Depending on the location and circumstance of the individual trees, we are seeing everything from "just fine - no problem", to tip dieback to delayed foliation to full mortality.

Your description has me a bit nervous on the amount of water the tree is getting. And you do not want to fertilize an already stressed tree.

Sylvia

 

[kcarlson]

Pictures

Thanks.

 

[kcarlson]

I used the product because a nursery highly recommended it for the boring insect problem. So I did. I didn't think it would hurt.

the scratch test shows green in the limbs...as you can see the buds aren't opening...these pictures were taken about 4 days ago.

Thanks,
kurt

 

[S Mc]

Kurt, this tree is gone. It just hasn't finished dying yet. The damage is too extensive and in a really bad location for the tree to be able to overcome this.

I would also encourage you to forward these photos to an extension service for identification. You have a prime resource in Whitney Cranshaw at Colorado State University. I am not an entomologist and, unfortunately, am not good at identifying bugs by their galleries.

Here is an informational pdf on many insect pests in Colorado for your interest. Whereas, I do believe this tree is beyong saving, it would be good to identify what the pest was in order to avoid a host species that it is attracted to, or to know its life cycle so you may address a control program informed.

There are many insects, some go to live wood, some to damaged tissue, some to deadwood. A positive id will help you in future decisions for your trees.

Sylvia

 

[Loraxguy]

tree ID

What ever the tree is it's going quickly. If you decide to replant make sure you do a really good job of preparing the site. Dig the hole atleast 3 times the the diameter of the roots system--wider not deeper. The photo's appear to be from a new development and therefor the soils are highly compacted and little if any top soil is left once the lots are put in.

In that part of the country you will have high ph soils and a clay soil. If need be plant the new tree on top of the ground , cover the roots with soil, mulch it, stake it and water it. In planting trees holes aren't needed just ask mother nature---People think their needed?

 

[S Mc]

Kurt, did the nursery id the insect?

I must confess, the tree looks like an ash tree to me. In addition to the twigs looking more ashlike, young Autumn Blaze maples have very smooth bark. Some cultivars of ash have very similar names, Autumn Flame, Autumn Purple, etc.

Sylvia

 

[kcarlson]

HI All,

I agree that the tree is very sick and dying. The nursery I went to was Nicks. It's more of a home and garden place. They didn't ID the insect, but the extension website shows some likely culprits...but the asain longhorn beetle is not out of question. I mean, we aren't suppose to have bedbugs in the US and now they are here again. The below is a PDF with several culprits.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...evvMfI25U6rG8eryw&sig2=O3RyLe-hIYxR-yjdRgBpag

If I do have an ash, it would make sense. However more mature maples have that barky appearance as well. Maybe someone on here can help me ID the tree so I don't plant the same kind. I wish I could remember what the leaves look like but they dropped 30 days after we moved in. I also noticed, nobody else has one in their front yard. I guess I know what I'm doing on Memorial day weekend...digging and planting. The HOA want's me to get a 2.5 gauge for the street tree and a well established tree to replace this one. So I need to go spend some money.

I have no idea how to replace trees so this will be my first time. I want to minimize damage to the lawn. Also the street tree that was dead when we moved in is in between the sidewalk and the street...maybe 4-5 feet. So there isn't much digging room.

Thanks all for your help. As I cut it down, I'll see if I can split the tree lengthwise to uncover some dead or living grubs.

I'm next to a large open field on the back side of the property and next to a retention pond on the other. It's private but a little buggy .

Thanks all!
Kurt

 

[kcarlson]

Here's a link to the Asian Longhorn Beetle, The TNC says that it came in through NYC but the damage to my tree looks like the damage it can do..deep bores and I do have exit holes halfway up the tree. I thought they were from woodpeckers at first, but I guess that's how they hatch and then chew their way out of the bark. Lovely.

http://www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/newyork/newsletter/art21089.html

KUrt

 

[rayIN]

I agree that it is not a young autumn blaze, and it does look to be an ash.

I have clay soil and have to go to extraordinary lengths to keep from having root girdle - especially with container trees whose roots are starting to circle already.

In order to avoid root girdle, I have found that any mulch needs to be washed and separated from the container tree, and the roots unwound as best as possible - do this in a big tub of water. It then goes goes into a hole with no soil augmentaion or preparation (except it usually has water in it since the tree is now essentially bare-root), and once positioned at the proper height, lateral trenches are dug to position unwound roots. Back fill with clay only. If after 2 yrs the tree feels remotely loose at the base you likely have root girdle starting. Also, an autumn blaze does very well in clay soil and I haven't had any serious pest problems with them.

 

[kcarlson]

Cool, I'll look in to getting a Maple then? I have clay soil as well and I've dug in the front yard to repair a sprinkler and it's mostly sand past say, 3 feet. The sand is so fine that it is difficult to work with. I can push a stick in to the sand without hindrance for about 3 feet.

thanks for the tips, I'll be going to a nursery this weekend to start my purchases. I'm thinking about the tree farm in Longmont but transport may be a problem. Does anybody have a favorite nursery in the Denver area?

Can I also get some explanation on root girdle? what is it etc?

I want to avoid pest infestations for my "green" investments. What is the best way to guard against that in the future?

Kurt

 

[rayIN]

Do a search on root girdle - there's alot of info. Root girdled trees fail to thrive and can die slowly (>10 yrs). If it happens you will kick yourself as it can be avoided in most cases. It's similar to 'root bound' in indoors plants, except the tree slowly chokes itself and doesn't send out lateral roots for proper wind support and nutrition/water.

 

[S Mc]

Kurt, many insects hit trees that are stressed. Buying high quality stock and planting correctly will optimize the chances for the tree's survival. A proper irrigation program is essential primarily during its establishment period but will remain important throughout its life.

A larger tree will take longer to establish than a smaller diameter tree. I would not recommend buying anything over 2 inches. It just isn't necessary. We habitually will buy bareroot trees that are 1 to 1.5 inches in diameter. They are easier to plant (being smaller and lighter), you can see their roots, they are cheaper and establish quicker.

Granted you are past the bareroot season and will be looking at container or ball and burlapped trees. Describe your soil to the nursery where you are going to be buying and ask them to recommend a tree that will be adaptable to that kind of soil.

Many trees are very fussy and particular....many are very flexible and adaptable. For instance, a true red maple, Acer rubrum, is very adaptable to soil type but needs slightly acidic soil. Talk to the people at the nurseries and ask a lot of questions.

Here is a link to Trees Are Good that describes new tree planting. http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/tree_planting.aspx

I understand what Ray is trying to describe regarding girdling roots, but I am afraid it might have been a bit confusing to someone who is unfamiliar with trees.

Sylvia