Young Red Oak with very dry leaves---leaves beginning to fall off

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Voles are more like mice.They will travel in mole runs, but they are a differant critter.Still, don't spray the trunk, that does stress a tree, just let the water soak in around the roots.
I did not mean to suggest overfeeding, I just think it's best not to fertilize when a tree is stressed like you describe.It sounded like root damage at first and may be true the root ball wasn't big enough to begin with.
If you keep it watered, it may pull through.Best of luck.

Thanks so much for your advice. I am a "newbee" at tree care. I am 67 and always just stuck the tree in the ground, walked away and it grew--no problem. Now that I have time to look and worry all this bad stuff happens. :(
 
PS: I don't disgree with the fertilzer burn comments...too few roots would only make that worse.

Rootball size-- the tree was planted in the fall of 2010. The guys from the nursery planted it and a nice linden. The linden died (planted too deep). I didn't measure the rootball but just guessing 4 feet. The fertilizer is Miracle Grow, the blue/green stuff used for flowers. The scoops are the little cap included in the box. Is this stuff really that
powerful to kill this tree? I use it on my flowers all the time, every other day and haven't killed those.
 
The over fertilization is a concern, the OP's tree symptoms started prior to the application.

The under sized root ball is a big stress on the tree's health.

We still need to confirm proper tree planting depth.

Are you seeing any new leaves emerging?
 
Thanks so much for your advice. I am a "newbee" at tree care. I am 67 and always just stuck the tree in the ground, walked away and it grew--no problem. Now that I have time to look and worry all this bad stuff happens. :(

You are welcome, I hope it helps.And thank you for taking the time and expense to plant and care for trees.Hopefully in another 67 years someone will enjoy the shade of this young oak.

My opinion on tree fertilizing is this.Once in early spring, about the time the tree starts to bud or just after.A slow release fertilizer is prefered.I will dig a few holes around the dripline about 6 inches deep and put in about a cup of slow release or 8-8-8 fertilizer and put the dirt back in the hole.
Lately however, I have started composting and will rake away last years mulch (pinestraw) spread some compost around the base of the tree and put down some fresh mulch.That feeds the trees pretty good.
The nursery should replace the dead linden.
 
The over fertilization is a concern, the OP's tree symptoms started prior to the application.

The under sized root ball is a big stress on the tree's health.

We still need to confirm proper tree planting depth.

Are you seeing any new leaves emerging?

I am not sure hot to identify the root flare with this tree. I understand the root flare should be at/near ground level.

The tree is looking worse each day with no new leaf formation. The biggest leaf is 50% of the size of a normal red oak tree. :(
 
You are welcome, I hope it helps.And thank you for taking the time and expense to plant and care for trees.Hopefully in another 67 years someone will enjoy the shade of this young oak.

My opinion on tree fertilizing is this.Once in early spring, about the time the tree starts to bud or just after.A slow release fertilizer is prefered.I will dig a few holes around the dripline about 6 inches deep and put in about a cup of slow release or 8-8-8 fertilizer and put the dirt back in the hole.
Lately however, I have started composting and will rake away last years mulch (pinestraw) spread some compost around the base of the tree and put down some fresh mulch.That feeds the trees pretty good.
The nursery should replace the dead linden.

Thanks for your advice and help. My gut tells me the hot weather and fertilizing killed this tree. However, I will try again this fall. I spoke with the Nursery owner yesterday, I gave him some leaves to look at, his opinion was red oaks sometime struggle in the second year of transplantation and the stree of the weather is not helping. He said to continue to watch the tree (dah) and maybe it would recover. :msp_sneaky:

The Linden has been replaced and is doing super. I fertilizer it as well but not as heavy. Both trees received regular water.
 
....his opinion was red oaks sometime struggle in the second year of transplantation and the stree of the weather is not helping.....

Two-lined chestnut borer is not an uncommon problem in transplanted oaks. I guess I neglected to tell you to look for that earlier. Just search

PS: once again, I don't think the stress of a small (below industry standards small) rootball is helping either - I'd remind the nursery of that every time you talk with them.
 
Two-lined chestnut borer is not an uncommon problem in transplanted oaks. I guess I neglected to tell you to look for that earlier. Just search

PS: once again, I don't think the stress of a small (below industry standards small) rootball is helping either - I'd remind the nursery of that every time you talk with them.

thanks for the info. I checked the tree and see no evidence of this borer. The pictures on line describe the borer as attacking the upper part of the tree first, is this correct?

If I had a gun I would shoot the tree put it and myself out of this misery. :msp_sad:
 
thanks for the info. I checked the tree and see no evidence of this borer. The pictures on line describe the borer as attacking the upper part of the tree first, is this correct?

If I had a gun I would shoot the tree put it and myself out of this misery. :msp_sad:

You should consider asking an arborist to come over and check it out. This article might help: Bacterial Leaf Scorch
 
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