I'm in southeastern Wisconsin and have a 6 year old suger maple that has very small leaves and not all the branches are filling out with leaves this year. Reading the other messages I am wondering if this is dry spring related too. Any comments / suggestions?
Young Sugar Maple Stunted
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Deere John
ArboristSite Operative
Nice to see that you read other posts too, and thanks for posting your location. I think you have a tree that is stressed by moisture, being that you are in a dry area. Watering the tree will certainly help.
I am also wondering, because of the dead branches, if you have some sun scauld damage happening to sugar maple. If the branches are on the inside and lower part of the tree, the twigs may be dying normally as the tree drops lower/interior branches in favour of height growth and the new branches - as a result of light availability.
Perhaps, after about 2 weeks of just giving the tree extra moisture, you could consider fertilization.
I am also wondering, because of the dead branches, if you have some sun scauld damage happening to sugar maple. If the branches are on the inside and lower part of the tree, the twigs may be dying normally as the tree drops lower/interior branches in favour of height growth and the new branches - as a result of light availability.
Perhaps, after about 2 weeks of just giving the tree extra moisture, you could consider fertilization.
As a follow up:
After weekly waterings of 8 to 16 hours of "drip" the maple is starting to recover showing new growth on several branches.
Based on how the summer has gone thus far I will continue the weekly treatment through the summer and fal.
Thanks for the help
After weekly waterings of 8 to 16 hours of "drip" the maple is starting to recover showing new growth on several branches.
Based on how the summer has gone thus far I will continue the weekly treatment through the summer and fal.
Thanks for the help
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
I think you should give it some thing to help green it up, organics, not fert.
As I have stated elswhere, I've seen good results with seeweed emultion.
Mulching will help. Now we need to decide what caused the dieback. Girdling root, Vericilium wilt, poor structure, pH too high all comon here in S/E WI.
Drop me a line if you want to discuss it further.
As I have stated elswhere, I've seen good results with seeweed emultion.
Mulching will help. Now we need to decide what caused the dieback. Girdling root, Vericilium wilt, poor structure, pH too high all comon here in S/E WI.
Drop me a line if you want to discuss it further.
What clues do I look for to decide what caused the problem?
The tree is well mulched and was mulched well last year too. It is in the highest part of the yard, situated on a small ridge that runs through the sub division. This ridge is small, maybe a 10 foot rise from the lowest area 100 feet away.
My original thought, based on others input, was lack of moisture from the dry fall and winter.
The tree is well mulched and was mulched well last year too. It is in the highest part of the yard, situated on a small ridge that runs through the sub division. This ridge is small, maybe a 10 foot rise from the lowest area 100 feet away.
My original thought, based on others input, was lack of moisture from the dry fall and winter.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Girdling root makes the trunk flatten out at the base instead of having a good flair, AKA stove piping.
A tree should not look like a post in the ground, root flair should be visible all around the base.
Verticilium is a fungus that clogs the vascular tissue. Brown staining in the cambium.
Poor structure, tight v crotches and mutiple branches that choke other branches out. Or large low beanches that take up all the fluids from the roots and stunt the upper crown, though this tree sounds too young for that.
Where in WI are you?
A tree should not look like a post in the ground, root flair should be visible all around the base.
Verticilium is a fungus that clogs the vascular tissue. Brown staining in the cambium.
Poor structure, tight v crotches and mutiple branches that choke other branches out. Or large low beanches that take up all the fluids from the roots and stunt the upper crown, though this tree sounds too young for that.
Where in WI are you?
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
H'mm, so your still in the heavy clay soil and water from the lake, wich is slightly base.
Sugar maples have a lot of strikes going against them in our area. They like moist, well drained, slightly acid, organic soils. With shade to the root plate to keep it cool. Not what we have in our landscpaes near the lake.
If you were closer, I'ld offer to take a look. I'ld have to charge to come up there.
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When does Wigwam Mills have there discout sales on seconds?
Sugar maples have a lot of strikes going against them in our area. They like moist, well drained, slightly acid, organic soils. With shade to the root plate to keep it cool. Not what we have in our landscpaes near the lake.
If you were closer, I'ld offer to take a look. I'ld have to charge to come up there.
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When does Wigwam Mills have there discout sales on seconds?
