Zero dollar ?fix? for scored piston/cylinder

[RiverRat2]

Here ya go!!!!

Well, I may just take your advice on that. Do you happen to know how long it takes to seat the rings in a properly honed cylinder? I'm sure this has been discussed here thousands of times, so forgive me for being repetitive.

This guys an AS Site sponsor,,,

http://cgi.ebay.com/034-036-MS-360-...8877851QQihZ004QQcategoryZ79669QQcmdZViewItem

How much did I say??? 12.00,,, but I doubt for 12.00 their OEM

you can find the factory ones for eight bucks more,,,

call your local stihl dealer and see what he wants

 

[blsnelling]

Your cylinder cleaned up very nicely. Why not just through a new piston and ring kit in it for $30? LINK The cylinder's the more expensive part. You wouldn't want to ruin it by trying to save $30.

 

[RiverRat2]

Your cylinder cleaned up very nicely. Why not just through a new piston and ring kit in it for $30? LINK The cylinder's the more expensive part. You wouldn't want to ruin it by trying to save $30.

Please read post # 15!!!!!

320 grit on the hone,,

when the new rings get here take one of the old rings and break it in half,,, use the corner of the broken edge to remove the carbon in the ring grooves go all the way around,,,, it would really run even better if you could find a new piston!!!!!!

 

[buck futter]

Carbon is your enemy, I hoped you cleaned up the carbon too. It also looks like you need to clean the muffler screen or open up the muffler.

 

[yawning_dog]

Well, I ran two tanks through the 036 the other day. It had decent power and ran well when cutting. But it still struggled to idle. This wasn't a problem if I went cut to cut and kept blipping it. I adjusted the L a little here and there, but I couldn't seem to dial it in.

Today, I couldn't get it started after about 25 pulls. So I check the compression and it was at a respectible 150lbs (cold). I tore down the carb again and tried to clean that up a bit. Put it back together and it started in about 7 pulls (seems normal for my Stihls). I need to adjust the carb tomorrow when the neighbors won't kill me, and maye get it hot enough to measure the compression hot. A work in progress...

 

[RiverRat2]

Well, I ran two tanks through the 036 the other day. It had decent power and ran well when cutting. But it still struggled to idle. This wasn't a problem if I went cut to cut and kept blipping it. I adjusted the L a little here and there, but I couldn't seem to dial it in.

Today, I couldn't get it started after about 25 pulls. So I check the compression and it was at a respectible 150lbs (cold). I tore down the carb again and tried to clean that up a bit. Put it back together and it started in about 7 pulls (seems normal for my Stihls). I need to adjust the carb tomorrow when the neighbors won't kill me, and maye get it hot enough to measure the compression hot. A work in progress...

Could be chasing a vacum leak?????? seals, manifold, impulse hose,,,, If you go all through the carb and it still does it??? dont run it much till you find the problem,,,,, and from whatyou describe it could be the idle circut is plugged with varnish or crud,,,try this,,,gently bottom out the L screw then remove it then take the carb cleaner spray with the red tube on and insert and while holding the throttle open so you can see the idle port inside the venturi squirt some cleaner and you should see a fine but solid stream then reinstall L screw and go back through the base line carb settings

Your getting 150 with just rings???? thats good for an old piston,,,,

Take both L & H in all the way then bring them both out 1 full turn

here is a good link for adjusting carbs,,,,

http://web.archive.org/web/20051018212959/www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm

rebaseline all the settings,,,, if it wont let you complete the settings properly than you have another problem

 

[yawning_dog]

Yuppers, 150lbs cold. Surprised me too. I ran it just enough today to warm it up and then it tested at 135lbs. So still not stellar but it runs. It seems to run a little better since the carb cleaning. And your suggestion is just what I did. I do it both for the L and the H, which I assume is okay. I usually end up getting carb cleaner all over my hands, which I'm sure will lead to some form of cancer or leprosy later in life. But it's for a good cause, right?

If I get really motivated, I'll try the vacuum and pressure test. I bought one of those harbor freight specials that someone suggested in one of his threads. But I don't yet have all the couplings necessary to hook thinks up. Same goes for the blood pressure cuff I got from e-bay. So we'll see!

Thanks for the suggestions. Happy New Year!

 

[RiverRat2]

if Im doing several I wear the blue heavy latex gloves,,, I dont like getting that Carb cleaner all over me any more than what happens by mistake much less just willingly getting it all over and not trying to minimize exposure?????

Yeah I suspect you have some wear on tha piston skirt and that why the hot readings drop so much,,,, but for how you get to use it,,,, it will last a little while,,,, A new OEM piston and fresh ringsW/Hone cyl. is hard to beat,,,,,

 

[drmiller100]

for the future, spend your time and energies working on the stuff abovethe exhaust port.

everything from below the top of the exhaust port can be considered a "performance enhancing boost port."

giventhat, i think you should have honed longer. 5 seconds is short, and you can see areas that didn't get honed.

the piston is along for the ride. the rings are important, as is the finish on the jug above the exhasut port.

 

[yawning_dog]

Well, drmiller100 I think you're definitely on to something there. I did in fact spend more time cleaning below the exhaust than above. Mostly because it's hard to cram your hand in there to work on it... As far as honing longer, perhaps you're right there too, but others have noted that the hone I used had a grit too course. So it's probably a good thing I didn't hone longer in this case.

I ran another two tanks through it today (fair amount of storm damage in Northern California). My neighbor's tree split in half and squashed our fence. Of course most of the tree ended up in my yard so I had a good excuse to do some sawin'. Anyway, the 036 worked very well. I had to do a couple 1/8th or less adjustments on the L to get it to idle consistently. Even then, it seems like it wants to stall, but it stays running. The saw is definitely usable now. It's a little bulky and tank like, but my feeble arms probably make it feel worse than it is. So I'm calling this one a wrap on the "zero dollar chainsaw fix"... Thanks again to everyone for all your tips on this subject. I'm sure I'll have the occasion again in the future to not spend money on a saw, so now I'm a bit more ej-e-cated!